Counsel Me on Towing & Tie-Downs

I have come to realize I need — OK, mebbe really only want — a “real” motorcycle trailer.  For hauling a motorcycle, not pulling behind a motorcycle.

Not my first rodeo, thus I have some experience with this.  But, of course, nothing like the collective wisdom here.

I am limited in the “tug,” as I am not going to get a new pickup.  A 1993 base model 2WD Toyota with 208K is not a candidate for a brothel-style enclosed Harley hauler.  But I love it and intend to use it for this duty.

So, open is it.  And, weight is an issue, so I am looking at aluminum one-bike models.  Having Kathi help with loading and unloading that POS wooden jobbie with the GRiSO on my last Atlanta run cinched spousal approval.

A friend has a Kendon “standup”  model, [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and I considered that, but, absent a wave-off here, have pretty well settled on this:

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Essentially, $2K USD.

Your thoughts, with or without flames?

With that settled, I am also tired of cheap straps.  Looking at these:

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Any yeas or nays on those?  Other suggestions.

Grazie tutte …

Bill

Bill your chosen trailer with the wide ramp is the way to go.

This is how I do it, when too lazy to run and push.
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If you are intending to tie from the handle bars with a little pressure on the forks try Cycle Cinch.
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I use the Cycle Cinch 1 straps, with separate tie downs attached individually. I also removed the 'D' rings and had longer loops sewn on so metal parts were NOT near tanks or fairings.

Another alternative, using ratchet straps on the front, attached around forks above calipers, pulling to front corners with carabiners that clip into eye bolts on trailer floor.
This way, all suspension is free to move and its not under constant compression. If the bike sways a little carabiners cannot pop out of eye bolt like hooks can.

Also install a wheel chock system as used in the cycle cinch link above. So simple and hands free while you connect all your straps.
The wheel locator as supplied by Aluma only stops the wheel from turning sideways while towing, it will not hold the bike upright individually.

Ratchet straps on the rear, with carabiners that clip into eye bolts on trailer floor.
Rear straps should not be pulling the bike backwards, if front straps come loose those rear straps could pull the bike out of the chock.

If these fit with pipes and luggage etc, they can be used without front straps, but I always err on the side of caution and use 4 straps with each large motorcycle.
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The soft tye downs in your post are good for the front with the Cycle Cinch 1. They have the extra clip on the hook for safety.

I use similar (commercially) on my ute (SUV) but replace them every 6 months. The alligator clamp relies on spring pressure for grip on the webbing strap. These will eventually fray and if the strap gets soiled (or oiled) it will not hold as firmly.
Also it can only be tightened as hard as you can pull. Ratchet straps off bottom of fork leg will get higher tension.

Many thanks for that.

Couldn't get that Sport Rider link to work, but rest of info was super.

I put down a (non-refundable) deposit on an MC10 today.  

In Macon, an hour or so south of Atlanta, but no dealer there had one in stock.  "On order," but no firm arrival dates, so I went for this one:

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Mine is a 2016, not 2017, model, but no differences ... except I saved $170, paying "only" $1925.  

I did get a Condor SC2000 wheel chock from the dealer for $100, which appears to be a decent price, as well as a spare wheel/tire.

I plan to ride my EV to Atlanta after Independence Day for my monthly week of "Mom duty," and will trailer it back.

Appreciate the info.

Bill

Bill I have 4 of these straps that I use along with a handle bar harness. While they are a non ratchet type
you would be hard pressed to find better.https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Taper-Tiedowns-Black/dp/B009XIP942/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466999541&sr=1-1&keywords=protaper+tiedown+straps

Personally I try not to use tiedowns that don't say Ancra on the buckle.

Brian

My best tip for tying down a bike is to use bungie straps from eye to eye on the straps. These keep tension on the hooks so they stay atached to the bike and trailer, even as the bike bounces on it's suspension. Which brings up tip #2, don't cinch the forks down tight, half your travel, front and back and let the bike absorb bumps, as long as you used tip #1.

Have yet to ever have a bike fall over in 20 years of trailering bikes and now in the garage of the toy hauler.

When I really need a trailer for bikes and Don't feel like putting them in the back of my truck, I rent from Uhaul. The motorcycle trailers work very well and are under $20 a day. I can't justify purchasing one

Well, I bought that trailer, an Aluma MC10, last week. Thanks for all the advice here.

I had ridden the Norge down a week or so ago on my last (monthly) trip from the top of Virginia to Atlanta (for my turn on our family’s "eldercare duty roster").

A great two-day ride, all on back roads.


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Here is how it got home day before yesterday.


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Yes, I am now interested in a new(-to-me) larger pickup, but the Household CFO (pictured with Tucker the Truck ) gives me “The Look” when I muse aloud about getting one.

I really love that old ’93 Toyota with 209K miles ... but -- no A/C, P/S, or (working) radio.  Whew.

600+ miles from Georgia in July, with only my own brilliant repartee with myself for entertainment was near stultifying.  I only stayed awake out of fear of being rear-ended on the slab.  

I drove that in 14 hours — Kathi takes 9 in our cages! — at a pretty steady 60 mph, stopping only for fuel for Tucker and for my own bladder and stomach maintenance.  I doubt that I passed more than two moving vehicles the whole time, and was no doubt the object of cursing and derision of many of the rest.  

FWIW, ended up with these tie-downs:

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Also got these that, technically did  not need as the tie-downs had “built in” ones, but I used 'em anyway.

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All in all, very pleased.  The GRiSO will get its turn on the trailer in September when we go down for the "SSR XXII," [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Back to Kathi’s “List of the Day.”

Bill

Hopefully all works out and I get to buy a buddies aluminum trailer; which I'll use to trailer a bike and a buddies bike to the Nevada rally (from Phoenix to Carson City, in September is simply not a ride to look forward to).

I picked up a new left over stock F150 Lariat (2014) as a retirement gift to me. Heated and cooled seats. Picked up a used iPod from another buddy so when the radio fades out I've got my iTunes collection to keep me awake. But after awhile road noise is even better. I do have a nice 48" wide ramp so for one bike the truck works great. With a trailer I can steal the wife's Outback now.

When I had the Ford Edge I towed U-Haul trailers and once, my buddies trailer. U-Haul trailers are heavy and sucked my mileage down fast. My buddies trailer is very light, towed like a breeze and I barely knew it was there. The F-150 is a big truck and there are times I wish I had a smaller vehicle, this trailer will give us some options. Fingers crossed it will happen.

I can highly recommend a pickup upgrade. The newer ones have better safety features, should get better mileage; more creature comforts (which greatly help drive fatigue). Some even allow hands free cell phone use (mine paired with my phone via bluetooth so I can answer the phone without touching the phone - pretty cool - and safer). It has USB ports for the iPod and GPS. It's these little things that take the strain off long road trips.

One little factoid: My buddy has a jacked up Toyota 4WD and his trailer is very low which means his mileage sucks while towing as the trailer doesn't travel in the lee of his truck; it catches all the wind that goes under his truck. You have an ideal situation there with a low truck and trailer. Something to consider when upgrading your pickup.