Clutch Fluid Change

I want to change the clutch fluid in my 07 GRiSO and 08 1200 Sport.

I havent done it in 3 years, and want to make sure my ducks are in a row. Last time I removed the reservoir cap, connected my vacuum bleeder to the bleeder dongle thing under the seat, attached the hose and opened the bleeder to draw fluid (dot 4) through the system, and fed clean fluid into the reservoir until clean fluid came out the bleeder and into the bottle. Then tightened bleeder, pumped the clutch lever a few times and repeated until clean fluid drained. Then I topped off reservoir and buttoned everything up.

What I cant remember was if I kept the bleeder up above the frame or hung below?

Appreciate confirmation or smack in the head.....

Keep the bleeder valve as low as possible.

hello there,
i am needing a bit of guidance / help..
i am new to group and new to the MG GRiSO, i have recently acquired a 2013 1200SE, i want to bleed off the old clutch fluid and replace with new stuff.

is it a matter of gravity flow - by that i mean do i just locate bleeder line under seat and position it to it's lowest point - take cover off reservoir - open up bleeder valve - pore in new fluid and let gravity take over and one replaces the other?

if it is other can you please advise a detailed procedure?

thanks, Odessa

Lowest point is the go.

Same as brakes. Open nipple, pull lever, close nipple, release lever, repeat while topping up reservoir until clear fluid emerges out of hose. Getting an in line ball valve for the purge tube makes everything very easy.

I like to use a cable tie to hold the clutch lever closed while I open the bleeder. Leave the tie loose enough to slip over the lever after you've pumped it up a bit. Bleed. Repeat.

Would it be silly to suck the reservoir low with a syringe or eye dropper and fill with new to save some effort if your doing it manually? Would be less bad stuff to have to run all the way to the extraction point.

That's exactly how to do it.

eeyore wrote:

Keep the bleeder valve as low as possible.

Logic when it comes to changing the fluid, but also when you bleed out the air?
Air bubbles go up, so I've always lifted calipers and would do the same with the clutch hose.
What is it I do not understand here...?

bjor wrote:

eeyore wrote:

Keep the bleeder valve as low as possible.

Logic when it comes to changing the fluid, but also when you bleed out the air?
Air bubbles go up, so I've always lifted calipers and would do the same with the clutch hose.
What is it I do not understand here...?

I always bleed upwards over a high point and then down to the bleed bottle(in a transparent tube)
This means i can see when the bubbles stop as well as when the clean fluid comes through.

I tried a suction bleeder but it drew so much air around the bleed nipple that i could not see when i was drawing fluid without bubbles.
Not a lot of fluid to put through so it is not very long.
As you need one spanner to hold the pipe and one to loosen the nipple Beetle's method of catching the lever back between pump strokes can be less sweary

Yes that's how I have done it too.

Here's my set up:
The yellow "hand brake" normally used on my side car, to hold the lever in, and a bottle with a one way valve to collect the used fluid, - hung high.
This works for me.

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And the old clutch fluid...
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