4 Valve(1100) HT leads (sparkplug wires) NLA?

So in doing my service and replacing the inner plug the cap disintegrated and half of it was left on the old plug.

I cant find any replacements. No aftermarket versions referring to our bikes online and when I look up the stock parts

13 GU06718300 HT wire 2
14 GU03717450 Sparkplug cap 2
15 GU14717600 Cap 4


In parts sites like AF1, MGCycle, etc it does not return anything. All Im seeing is wires and caps for basically every other motorcycle in the range but ours.

Anyone know of replacement parts for these?

If you go to the NGK site you should be able to find suitable caps. XD05E or F depending on centre electrode should probably work. The leads are copper core HT lead, nothing special.

Yeah the plug is NLA. However I recently got a pair from GreenSpark in the UK. I purchased the last two in Australia last year as well. Already distributing them to other 2V owners locally.

here's a link Linky = VD05EMH is the correct part number

An outer plug will fit, though it is tight, if push comes to shove.

Thanks guys. The outer plugs no issue fitment under the little cover since its at a shallower angle? The inner the angled ones should be fine it looks.

My wires look fine but figured I might just rebuild all the plugs while Im in there.

So struggling to find XD05E/F on NGKs website.  The F is NLA as well.  Nuts their website doesn't let you filter by ANYTHING.

If Im able to find it Im guessing just any 5ohm 10/12mm stud and 7/8mm wire would work?

Uhh, so I asked for some clarification since all of the recommended ones are not available and this was their response:

"Hello,
Unfortunately, NGK has stopped production of all pug caps and will no longer be making any replacements.

Thanks,
Ryan"

Yeah, I was told this a while back. Someone has to be making them though? Champion or someone.

Ill probably run to the auto parts store with the wires and plugs and see what I can find. Even if its not best quality at least I can get something working, maybe then once I realize the "specs" can look for something better (although doubt I need anything shielded or special for a 1ft run).

Ok so I do have a bit of a question. The caps everyone is recommending have 5ohm resistance but looking at the current lines of NGK plugs they all have the resistor built in. So is the spec calling for 10ohm of resistance or are the plugs just dated to before everything had the resistor built in and I should be running resistorless caps?

*never made my own wires before, the Guzzi is actually the only non coil-on-plug engine Ive touched in decades*

Don't fret over the resistance. It's just for noise suppression so you don't upset people listening to the wireless in their charabancs.

Oh I figured it was also to control load on the coil.

Soo, thought I posted this a couple of days ago but, save for the flashy color, these look familiar?

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Ok this looks good.  The CR4 8054 leads look great as long as you like red.  Its 50cm long so its long enough to make either lead.
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Here it is laid
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And the covers fit over no problem:
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Its labeled on the cap as TB05EMA
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T is for T shaped, hence the little top cap but its silicone and can easily be trimmed if its snug on the inner one.  Its also a little longer but again you can trim it with a razor knife.  
B is the 14mm plug thread.  I dont know how much this matters since its a silicone jacket.  The opening is smaller than stock but it just stretches over the plug
05 is the 5k ohm resistor just like stock
E is terminal nut instead of terminal stud (like stock)
MA are special codes meaning a special design and rubber sheathed


I guess you could use the CR2 if you wanted a terminal stud plug instead of nut.

They arent cheap but all youre needing to buy is the clip for the coil side, youre getting an entirely new cap and silicone wire (that is so flexible compared to hardened from heat stock)

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Ok game over.  A kit for the coil connectors [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Easy peasy, slide the boot on, cut, strip, fold, crimp.  Completely new plug wires with fresh resistors (whether they are necessary Ill let you debate, but they were OE spec) and fresh silicone jackets that are far more flexible than the ancient ones who have been cooked over the years.  Hopefully these get me another 16 years.

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Only thing you can see different is the red head and that its got a slightly longer "T" shape to it, but it doesnt obstruct anything

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What crimper did you use?

Just a low voltage wire crimper left over from when I was an electrician

Thanks archercc for the info and write up.
More than likely I'll need in the future for my 2006.

Harry