Sump gasket replacement

So i have finally got around to taking the sump off, as there was an intermittment noise from the right hand cylinder top end.

It came off easily enough, this is what i found.

• There are 18 nuts not 14 as per the manual (four around the oil filterr)
  There is no need to remove the old filter
  Took off the sidestand. To to this i needed to remove the lower header (left hand side) for easier access.
  You cannot get a socket on the top bolt of the sidestand with only one header removed, if you try, then you will just roudn of the bolt
  Remember that there are two bolts holding the pancake part of the sump at the bottom of the oil cooler housing
  

Found that the strainer along with the two screws were loose in the sump!!


When putting it back together, i found that the pancake is heavier than it looks when you are laying on the ground, i rested it on some wood under the oil filter.
Dont screw the four bolts all the way in without locating the top gasget, i fould that screwing the 14 outside bolts that hold the sump in first will locate those holes and then you can tighten up the four that hold the pancake part, in the knowledge that the sump bolts will locate with ease. There is probably a mechanics trick to this, but i dont know it!!

Took the time to paint it while it was off, silk black seems to have done a good job.

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Nice job Keith ; I;m guessing the problem was that break in the gasket & now your GRiSO is back to the normal bangs & rattles ie without the extra intermittent one ??

BTW re-colour looks good (black hammerite?); did you just wash it in white spirit/thinners to prep it ?

paulbrice wrote:

BTW re-colour looks good (black hammerite?); did you just wash it in white spirit/thinners to prep it ?

Its actualy a Satin black from Halfords. I have been using it to repaint the brake and clutch fluid holders, until i can afford something like your solution.

Washed it in white spirit, sanded it down with fine sandpaper, see how long it lasts!

Did you replace the gasket with the later, thicker, type?

Pete

Pete Roper wrote:

Did you replace the gasket with the later, thicker, type?

Pete

To be honest pete, i just ordered the replacement online, there didn't seem to be a choice, it looked thicker than the blackone that failed, and was a lot thicker than the new sump gasket itself, so i could have done the right thing without realising it.

Pete Roper wrote:

Did you replace the gasket with the later, thicker, type?

Pete

I was also worried about the strainer coming loose into the sump with both bolts loose too.

Have you seen that before?

I've seen it once and only one of the screws. Loctite is your friend here.

When I took mine off, I also found that one of the screws had come out and was lying in the bottom of the pan. Made me glad I removed it and found that! [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I started reading this thread after I broke my oil pan on my 09 8v while accidentally riding over a slightly elevated curb.
Fortunately, I got the pan fixed by a friend who is good at welding aluminum, only to then destroy the magnetic oil pan drain bolt/plug while reinstalling it. In the process, I learned a few things:
1. All the torque values for sump-related bolting = 10 newton meters. Which seems really loose!
2. I did not need to remove the kickstand in order to unbolt the sump pan. There are indentations in the sides of the sump pan that let you locate the sump bolts without directly seeing the bolt heads. Insert 5mm hex and unscrew. An extra long 5mm bit is a very nice tool to have for this job.
3. Should you over-zealously tighten your magnetic oil drain plug, you may well have only destroyed the bolt and not the pan threading. My bolt broke near the head, at the deepest point where the magnet was inserted after the bolt had been drilled out to accept the magnet. Sump pan threads undamaged!
4. I was able to easily tap out the magnet from the bolt body using a hammer and punch.
5. The remaining portion of the bolt threads was then easily removed (without drilling!) using a reverse-threaded bolt removal tool - no metal shaving or threads created.
6. Should you require a replacement magnetic oil pan plug/bolt, it is an m10 x 1.5 pitch, I believe it is 12 mm long. The MG part is available online for about $40. You can buy a regular, nonmagnetic equivalent bolt for about $5 at the hardware store. I currently waiting for the Outlaw Racing magnetic bolt that i bought from amazon for $10.50. It is 13mm long, so I plan to stick an extra washer on it, behind the crush washer.
Hope this helps!

I too have found loose bolts, though not fallen out. Came like that from the factory.