Supplier for Agip 10w60

Just received a case of reasonably priced ENI 10w60. Ships from Pittsburg area so that could become prohibitive if not close enough.

Website for the distributor:

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Thanks.

Interesting; thought they had left USA market.

But, even tho I had recently ordered a case, the "special price" of $96 lured me in.

Unfortunately, when added to cart, it morphed into $120.

Can't figure out if I am missing some special code.

Bill

I had the same experience.

Is that still a viable oil supply for AGIP products in America?

It really is an utter irrelevance.

Just use any decent, fully synthetic oil of the correct weight and it will be fine.

Not having luck locating 60w oil here API SG or SN.
I was going to use 50W oil.
I'm near the Canada border. Very rarely get to 90 degrees here... and I never get stuck in a traffic jam/

This should probably be fine for a 2007 1100 ( 5K miles) in a northern climate ?

does it have to be synthetic?

Crazyspeed

At reasonable specs (that includes VW/MB & ACEA......API SG thru SL is mainly big ancient US engine tests), it's almost impossible to make a 10W50 or 10W60 without going synthetic & synthetic is much better in general (wear, cleanliness/varnish of hot bits, oxidation stability, viscometric stability)anyway !....only downside can be seals performance and additive solubility but these are all formulated into the oil.

'W' is the winter part of viscosity grade so you'll want 10W IMHO if your winters get anywhere near freezing (there's no such thing as a 50W as that would be almost solid at room temperature. For the '50' versus '60' (the summer grade bit); I think they spec'd 60 grade to give higher viscosity at 'normal' internal engine temperature irrespective of the weather/outside - given it's air cooled and oil is splashing around the pistons & other hot bits.

So 10W50 will probably be OK but you should get better 'protection' in the extremes ('cos it's thicker at high temperature& at high shear) with 10W60....

Crazy speed wrote:

        does it have to be synthetic?

Yes.

beetle wrote:

Crazy speed wrote:

        does it have to be synthetic?

Yes.

Should be ester synthetic.

I'm aware how mondaine oil threads can be. But I must say this at 30,000 miles. I took off pan on my bike to discover absolutely no sludge or even discoloration in all hiding spots of oil pan. Using exclusively AGIP eni 10W-60 at that time. I just found that impressive. Change intervals at 5000 miles. My residence is south Florida high heat and high humidity during summers....My experience with synthetic oil has been very limited prior to Guzzi to say the least. I would love to continue to use the AGIP motor oils and gear oils but are very hard to find in America. Just saying the inside of that crankcase looked cleaner than a hounds tooth......Shite, don't they run the stuff in Ferrari's to this day?

Just order some of this. Probably find it cheaper if you look around.
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Motul it is, found on slamazon 52 bucks.

Gootzibird13 wrote:

Motul it is, found on slamazon 52 bucks.

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$34.99 on Bezos

Just my armchair rambling/non-expert opinion:

In theory, a car oil may provide marginally better wear protection (no shared sump concessions) and is often less expensive, though many lack the ester content of typical motorcycle products (Motul 8100 for example appears to be predominately group III/hydrotreated, according to its SDS). Ester content may be beneficial for the valve cooling reasons that Pete has mentioned here in the past.

One exception includes the Penrite product which is sadly not available here in the States. The closest alternative appears to be Redline 10W60, high ester content, price is roughly in between the lower-cost group III car products (Motul 8100, Liqui-Moly) and the ultra high-end motorcycle products (Maxima, Motorex).

More food for thought... But if I may ask, what do you mean by "shared sump"? To me, that implies that the engine and gearbox use the same lube, not the case here.

Well i am goign to try Morris Multivis 10/60. They have a good reputation for specialist oils fullys synthetic at about £12 per litre [url=https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/multivis-mlr-10w-60.html ][You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] [/url]5 litres that is 1 1/3 US gallon ( i think lol)

rick pope wrote:

More food for thought...  But if I may ask, what do you mean by "shared sump"?  To me, that implies that the engine and gearbox use the same lube, not the case here.

Agreed--my guess is that a car oil with high ester content would seem to be the "best" overall choice (I say "best", as unless you're riding through death valley in the summer, or under other extremes, we're truly splitting hairs here!).

Most of the car oils however (which are incidentally cheaper) don't appear to utilize much ester. Penrite and Redline do, there may be others.

Worth reading this if you want to understand the engines & tests used to meet the specs (or visit Infineum website - my former employers   )  Passenger Car Engine Oils

The only true indication of an oil quality is the viscosity grade and the accredited performance specifications (API Donut, JASO for integrated wet multiplate clutches, ACEA, VW, BMW, Mercedes).....brand names are mainly the patterns & colours on the packaging.

So Paul that means that the Morris Multivis fully synth 10w/60 API SN CF is the same spec as Eni i-Sint racing tec 10W-60 API SN? Or does the CF on the Morris oil mean it is a lower grade?

CF (actually obsolete spec now) means it's also been tested (and passed) a range of standard diesel engine tests. These generally challenge oils with acidic gases (even low Sulphur in diesel makes sulphuric acid in the crankcase) ; higher soot loading (needs more dispersant) , more challenging of ring sticking & piston ring oil control etc. So with both it means the oil has been proven to work in broader range of applications. In general the more approvals/specs an oil meets, the more expensive/higher treat rate the additives package, and the better it should perform or the more tolerant of extended drain intervals & 'out of normal' operating conditions,

The only thing that really matters is that the oil meets the OEM spec, which means it should (there are classic engine design problems that the original specs didn't cover & 'special tests' and new specs were rapidly created) give suitable service life if you follow the drain intervals.

MG oil drain intervals are pretty conservative for full blown ester SN quality oils.