Oil light ON, advice needed

Best to pull the old one & take it with you when you collect any generic options (quicker to check)....I bought BMW series 1 (Guzzi Cat posted that somewhere !) and it fitted (despite wider - see pics)...I put 2011 model year and 1.6 litre on euro parts car bits website - any generic one local to you will do same....I checked now & got even more similar one (see website snip).

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For future reference, BMW OEM part code is 12618611273, it fits 12x1.5 and 0.35 bar pressure. Any other aftermarket manufacturers with crossrefference will do the job.

Has it cured the light problem?

And I apologise for getting shitty before. I'd had a bad day.

No problem Pete, i got you. As i said, its easier to say than to write, cause misunderstanding can occur.

I ordered the part, arriving tomorrow. I will update as soon as i test it.

I have replaced my oil pressure switch a couple of times now and I use a BMW series 1 one (2007 I think), same connector [if you have the square connector].

Usually a motor part equivalent item, not factory.

Just check thread size

After several days, the Pharmacist has solved the problem.

Changed oil pressure sender switch from BMW, see details above, changed oil, filter, remapped by our guardian angle @Beetle, cleaned spark plugs, and basically clean up everything on the way.

Have a good weekend everyone!

Does the oil light come on and stay on with the ignition on and not running? If it does that, it may be a bad oil pressure sensor, or connection. I have had this on my GRiSO, 1200S and the MGX. In the case of the MGX it was the spade connector was loose. On the GRiSO and 1200S it is a bad pressure switch. On the 1200S a start and restart will clear it, but I had to replace the sensor on the GRiSO. YMMV

Problem is solved, most of the people pointed me to the right direction. It was bad oil pressure sender switch, which i replaced by an oem BMW, see details in the post above, but also as Beetle suggested, the bike was overfueling also, so changed the oil and filter, updated new bettle map, cleaned spark plugs, and everything that was on the way.

Tested for 700km,oil level unchanged, a bit lower fuel consumption, a really a better feel, and amoother ride.

beetle wrote:

Steady on, Pete. He’s a chemist, not an engineer.

at least he's not a physicist, those guys don't listen to anyone and are absolutely useless

Pete Roper wrote:

Yes, I'm sorry. I'd just had a very frustrating day and it seemed that the obvious suggestion of the switch was being ignored. I didn't see any mention of a new one being sourced. That sort of thing happens a lot and drives me bonkers!

Pete,

I found a switch at NAPA that fit. Somewhere (maybe here) I crossed referenced a part number and NAPA had it in stock and it fit and behaved exactly as the original switch.

Then you told me the stupid idiot light doesn't illuminate when the key is on and the engine isn't running. Like ever other vehicle I've ever owned.

So I suspect the original switch is still good, and I still have it. It passes a simple continuity test when I insert a small rod into the cavity and push.

hipower wrote:

So I suspect the original switch is still good, and I still have it. It passes a simple continuity test when I insert a small rod into the cavity and push.

I wouldn't put it back in. I had lots of issues with oil switches working fine and then crapping out in the line of duty. I would just bin it, they aren't that expensive.