Torque wrench recommendation

Sorry for multiple posts but I have two different subjects to bring forward. I want to invest in a torque wrench(s) and would like to know what you all use on your Grisos.

Tony,

Most questions that amateurs like you and I dream up have been asked before and the search function will reveal most of those.

In this instance, take a look here: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Beetle's last is a good point.  That said, unlike he and other cognoscenti here, I don't bust into engine bottom ends or crack cases to count cogs in a transmission!

So, I have been very happy (and never unhorsed or stranded by) Craftsman beam-type torque wrenches.  YMMV.

BREAK BREAK

No clue on your trailer question.  If space is a premium for you -- it isn't for me -- a folding trailer has charm.  Lots of choices out there, with mixed reviews as you likely know.  Grisos are -- gasp -- just another motorcycle, so if no one chimes in on that thread, I'd look at reviews that seem to be of similar models/weights.  

As for me, I'm going riding, tho probably the Stornello.  Retirement is the best job I've ever had.

Bill

Hi Bill! I hope you enjoyed the ride! I already have Craftsman tools, so getting the torque wrench would have been default anyway... Glad to see your happy with it. If I ever need a big one I'll just get another one... No biggie... Pun intended.

Thanks on that trailer tip as well...I have a two car garage and one half of it is toys! I have room for a folding trailer though....

He gets a bit out into the weeds, but the guy from Project Farm does some pretty comprehensive comparisons in instances like this.

As usual, the balance of economics and quality correlate pretty well, but there are some surprises.

I have a Snap-On clicker, that I use very little. It's just easier, and quicker, to grab a beam type. Just be careful that you don't skew the values by pulling off-center.

Thanks for the tips! Watching now! These seem large for small screws and the like... Almost like you need more then one... Am I right?

What are you actually wanting to tighten?

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I have this one already.... It was my Old Man's from back in the day. You guys think it would suffice for larger bolts? Because I'll just get a smaller digital one for smaller screws.

Pete Roper wrote:

What are you actually wanting to tighten?

The screws that you remove for the valve covers and the fluid screws as well...

OK, a couple of things.

The rocker cover bolts and indeed most of the *Small* fasteners on Yuen outside of the motor that will be regularly removed and replaced are M6. This is a screw with a thread pitch of 6mm x 1mm. The next size up is M8 which is 8 x 1.25. Both of these thread pitches have ISO standard torque values but to be honest especially the M6 there are so many variables unless everything is stupidly, scrupulously clean, that using a torque wrench runs a high risk of pulling out the thread. An M8 I believe is listed as 22 ft/lbs but once again it is easy to pull a thread out unless everything is perfect.

The drain plugs for all three regular drain points, (Engine sump, gearbox, bevelbox.) are a coarse thread and are notorious for tearing out if torqued to ISO standards. Great care has to be taken if relying on torque wrenches in these situations and I'd really recommend that if you do use one you learn to 'Feel' what is right and develop a talent for that.

Remember torque is force times distance. If you are afraid of stripping threads, especially on things like rocker cover bolts, just buy a ball ended 5mm 'T' bar wrench with a small 'T'! I can take a pic of one of mine if you like? The thing is while it *Might* be possible to strip a bolt with a 'T' bar with a 50mm 'T' you'd have to be a complete gorilla to do it!

Torque wrenches are important. Big end bolts, cylinder head nuts, rear wheel lug nuts. Bevelbox to swingarm nuts. All vital.

Most other regular fasteners common sense and 'Feel' is the way to go. Believe me, if you paid your shop to clean and torque every fastener on your bike in a service it would cost you at least twice as much!

I'm with Mr. Roper re. the small M6 and M8 bolts.  I've never used a torque wrench on them.  if you want a recommendation for a handy set of hex keys, I love this set from Titan.

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Titan Metric hex keys - Amazon link

I like this set in particular as they have a bit of flex to them.  It helps me get a better feel for a good snugging up without over torquing, kind of negates your inner gorilla.

Great post Peter! Thank you! I have t handle ball drivers already, that's what I used on the valve cover. I just tightened it until the driver flexed a tiny bit...

Steak, I have the ones from Bodus. I've seen them at work so I bought those assuming they were choice tools by the mechanical engineers...

Bondhus is a quality tool for sure. But it never hurts to have a compact set to toss into your essential tool kit when out on a multi-day ride!

Just an aside note.

Torque wrenches require calibration. At work we are on an annual schedule for this service. Due to the high number of wrenches used we have a tool room tech do this in house.

Torque calibration is set up to to be most accurate in the middle third of the wrenches range.

For home use I have click type from a couple hundred ftlbs down to a couple tens of inlbs.

Like Pete said, most small fasteners and drain plugs on the GRiSO will be over torqued if you go by the manuals stated torques. Go easy with the wrenches, for sure most people over torque.

Where would you go to get a torque wrench calibrated? I wouldn't mind getting my dad's done.

I haven’t had to use my torque wrench much. I use feel like Pete says. One thing to think about is that if you plan to take off your rear wheel, those lug nuts need to be right and you need a manly torque wrench for that. I think it’s 80 ft lbs. don’t quote me on that.
I had to borrow a buddies when we greased places in the rear that Luigi forgot to and had to remove and replace the rear wheel.

Most Cities and Towns with any kind of Industrial Businesses will have someone that can perform Calibration and Repair of torque wrenches. Google being your friend here.

Snap-on offers this service as well, I don't know if they will work on other brands.

Thanks man!!

Pete Roper wrote:

The rocker cover bolts and indeed most of the *Small* fasteners on Yuen outside of the motor that will be regularly removed and replaced are M6. This is a screw with a thread pitch of 6mm x 1mm. The next size up is M8 which is 8 x 1.25. Both of these thread pitches have ISO standard torque values but to be honest especially the M6 there are so many variables unless everything is stupidly, scrupulously clean, that using a torque wrench runs a high risk of pulling out the thread. An M8 I believe is listed as 22 ft/lbs but once again it is easy to pull a thread out unless everything is perfect.

The drain plugs for all three regular drain points, (Engine sump, gearbox, bevelbox.)  are a coarse thread and are notorious for tearing out if torqued to ISO standards. Great care has to be taken if relying on torque wrenches in these situations and I'd really recommend that if you do use one you learn to 'Feel' what is right and develop a talent for that.

Remember torque is force times distance. If you are afraid of stripping threads, especially on things like rocker cover bolts, just buy a ball ended 5mm 'T' bar wrench with a small 'T'! I can take a pic of one of mine if you like? The thing is while it *Might* be possible to strip a bolt with a 'T' bar with a 50mm 'T'  you'd have to be a complete gorilla to do it!

Torque wrenches are important. Big end bolts, cylinder head nuts, rear wheel lug nuts. Bevelbox to swingarm nuts. All vital.

Most other regular fasteners common sense and 'Feel' is the way to go. Believe me, if you paid your shop to clean and torque every fastener on your bike in a service it would cost you at least twice as much!

I agree wholeheartedly.  The fly in the ointment when using torque wrenches is whether the bolt or nut you are trying to tighten is lubricated or has dry threads.  There's a helluva difference between the two, but the torque wrench does not differentiate.

I prefer my right arm, which is calibrated in foot-pounds (or newton-meters), and I just tighten it up until it "feels" right.