08 8v with 16.000 miles, developed a small drip from the clutch housing, was not too bad just a drop or two after a ride would show up beneath the bike. Pulled off the tank and ruled out all the other potential sources . Decided to go after it before it got worse or left me stranded somewhere. Just about shat myself to discover all eight rear flange bolts finger tight. Needed only a socket on an extension to wind them all out by hand. Only one bolt had a yellow dot on it which I would assume means at least that one was torqued. The bolts were not too long and did not bottom out in there holes. The main seal does not appear to have been leaking but it was obvious that the oil was weeping from the bottom of the flange gasket. I have read up on the fix by ensuring the oil dowel is not too long or the bolts. I plan on pulling the flange and removing the gasket and going with the three bond instead. Not entirely sure about the o ring on the dowel. Is the original size OK? I believe it's a 7/5-2. I guess I'll know more when I get a look at the condition of the original. I have all the parts except the o ring and am waiting for a flange puller on backorder. Glad one of those bolts didn't end up in my clutch or ring gear! Would post a few pics if I could figure out how on this page?
Thank's Pete, Have you ever opened one up to find the flange bolts all loose? There was no signs of any thread locker just some basic wave washers, I am sure no one has had this apart before. Also the two breather hoses from the back of the heads to the collector box up front are getting pretty hard and would like to replace. Is there an alternative to $42.00 oem ones or should I just bite the bullet? Hope all is well down under.
I've not found bolts finger tight but they don't, on those motors prone to this failure, ever seem close to the 22ft/lbs you'd expect. Why? No idea! Perhaps that poxy gasket collapses more than it ought? I really dunno.
As for the breather hoses? Yes, they're pretty shitty but they usually last five to seven years out here which isn't really too bad so while they are available we just keep using them but they'll go out of production soon and then we'll need to find an alternative. Several people here have had success using silicon hose of the correct ID and running it across the bike and up to the spigot on the opposite side of the collector box to avoid tight bends and the risk of kinks. That strikes me as pretty much ideal so I'd have a hunt around using the search function to see who did it and how.
I would suggest that if your breather hoses are getting ropey then the breather box 'Condom' is likely even worse so it'd be a good idea to replace that as well while you're fiddling around up by the steering head with the hoses.
Nah , most Mericans I know are proper swine's Question , I got the flange puller and sourced a slightly larger dia. o ring 2.5mm, the original was 2mm so flange is bolted back up. have been unable to source a Viton double lip seal for the gearbox input shaft, 25x47x7, locally . I can order one but may be a week or two. My existing seal shows no sign of leaking at this point, An 08 with 16.000 miles. Would rather replace it while I'm in here but part of me say's it may go for years more without developing a leak. Should I roll the dice or hurry up and wait? TIA dave
I'd say leave it. The 'Brown' Viton seals are very flexible and robust. When I built my low ratio gearbox and Mark's high ratio one I rolled the dice and didn't replace either seal on either box. Both of those had been completely to bits including having the shafts taken out through the seals and then replaced. No leaks.
The seals we find most prone to leaks are the gearbox output shaft seal and the CARC pinion seal. The output shaft seal is easy. The pinion seal not so much but Michael has got doing it without disassembling the box down to a fine art! No idea how. I can never do it but he's smarter than me.
Thanks' again Pete, Got the clutch back on tonight and gearbox slid on just waiting to bolt up. Now that I know what's involved, should that seal leak ,I am less worried about it. Tearing stuff apart comes easy to me. Putting it back right is the challenge, much less so with you pro's watching over! Really appreciate all of your help. I found what could be the ideal breather hose at a marine supply outfit. It's common 3/8" id outboard motor fuel line. Will take a tight radius without kinking and is non hardening from oil/gas exposure. I'm going to make up a mandrel for the sharp bend and try heat forming it . Will let you know how it goes. $4.00 per ft. if it works out I'm going make up a bunch and send you and Mike some.
All back together and no more drips. Appreciate the help Pete. The biggest pain I had was the spacer /bolt in the top of the alternator belt cover with the screw for the oil condenser box. My hands just weren't made for places like that. Had success with forming the breather lines on a homemade mandrel with a heat gun. Took a few tries with several different tubing materials to finally get it . Have a spool on order and will send a few pair down to you heathens for inspection. Stay well, Dave