Fastener Torque Tables Document

Hello,

Im relatively new to this forum and a new GRiSO 8v 2010 owner. Im about to have an engine semi teardown because it started leaking oil from the gearbox, crankcase and oil sump. Now I cannot access the Torque tables document on the original Steaks post, and was wondering if anyone had that file? I know that torquing values are found in the service manual, but I really find that hard to decipher. If anyone has a more comprehensive and easier to understand tables, I would really appreciate the contribution.

Thanks!

If it’s a 2010 one has to ask if it has been rollerised?

Which particular torque values do you need? Most of the fasteners are tightened to ISO standards.

Hi Pete,
Im pretty certain it has been rollerised. Do correct me if Im mistaken, but these look like rollers:

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Most likely ill need to replace some gaskets and seal rings in the sump, between the clutch and crankcase and gearbox. Engine has to come off the chasis and apart.

Yup, you’re good on the rollers.

So is it gear oil or engine oil? I take it it’s coming from the slot in the bottom of the bell housing?

2010 is a bit late for the leaky rear main bearing flange issue but if it is engine oil and you’re having to go in there I would still pull the rear main and check the oil delivery tube length and o-ring thickness and delete the flange gasket, if it has one fitted. It is unlikely to be the rear main seal but the flange itself may leak if the two bottom retaining bolts are bottoming out in their holes. Replace the 25mm bolts with 20mm ones in those two holes. As I said do NOT use a gasket on the flange on reinstallation, just a very thin smear of Threebond 1211. One other leak point might be the cap over the end of the timing idler shaft. This is very rare though. It is sealed with an o-ring.

If it is gear oil? Before pulling the gearbox I would suggest first just pulling the clutch slave cylinder and replacing the cone seals on the clutch pushrod. This can be done without dropping the motor out of the frame although you will need to remove the bevelbox and swingarm but you were going to do that anyway to check and pack the swingarm bearings and shock linkages weren’t you?

Its probably both. First it was "clearer" engine oil, after a day it was black oil, assuming from gears.
Thanks for the reminders, will check swingarm bearings too

Why is it better to delete main flange gasket?

This is how it looks:

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Quick clutch lookaround:
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Gear oil is usually clear unless it has molybdenum disulphide added which for these gearboxes it shouldn’t. Certainly that quantity of oil inside the bell housing indicates a substantial leak. You won’t know from where until you get the gearbox and clutch/flywheel off. I’d expect to need a new clutch friction plate as well as it is likely to be badly contaminated and it would be a shame to reassemble everything and then find you need to do it all again!

Why delete the gasket? Because that’s what the service bulletin about the issue said to do! I’d imagine though it is to assist with ensuring proper crush on the o-ring that seals the oil delivery tube to the rear main bearing. You can use a slightly oversized, in cross section, o-ring there as well. The leak is caused by a combination of the oil feed dowel being a bit too long, or the relief it fits into in the case not being deep enough so the flange doesn’t tighten down and the o-ring can’t act as a crush seal. The service bulletin suggested machining the case. I find it much easier to simply remove a mm off the length of the oil feed dowel with a smooth file. It has the same effect.

I’m willing to bet it’s a leaking flange issue, not a rear main seal or idler shaft cap leak. Be aware you will need a puller to remove the rear flange. If you try to pry it out any other way there is a very good chance you will break the flange. If you replace the rear main seal, which is probably a good idea if you’re pulling the flange, make sure you get the correct Viton seal as using a Nitrile one will result in an early failure within a couple of weeks. Only install the seal flush with the outer face of the flange. Do not push it in until it uses the actual bearing material as a register or it will blow the moment the motor is started.

I’ve gotta go now but I’ll post a bit later with a bit more advice about taking the bike to bits.

Pete, thank you for all the advice! Since I'm a bit rough on terminology of engine parts, lets confirm a few things.

By rear main flange, you are probably referencing this:
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- 19 is the whole flange assembly, with 2 lower screws which need to be replaced with shorter ones if that is the issue,
- 27 being the gasket which needs to be deleted and replaced with some liquid gasket,
- 4 being the seal to replace if I pull the flange

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- marked with red, the same seal, which should be aligned with the edge of the flange?

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- a timing cap with o-ring (unlikely the cause)

By Viton seal, which one do you mean? I've already got the original part (GU90405367)..

And last thing about oils containing MoS2. Ive got these oils ready:
Engine: AGIP I-Ride Racing 10W60
Gearbox: RAVENOL EPX SAE 85W-90 GL-5
Final drive: RAVENOL Motogear SAE 80W-90 GL-4

Didn't find any info if they contain molybdenum disulfide..

Yup, you’ve basically got it covered. If you have the Guzzi seal you’re good, the ‘Brown’ seal material is Viton which is much more tolerant of heat than Nitrile, (Which is usually black.). Nitrile seals harden quickly with high emperatures and heat cycling and cranks, which the seal runs on, get very hot!

The only part you didn’t identify is the o-ring which seals the oil delivery dowel. That is part # 26 and as I said you can substitute one of slightly larger cross section to assist with sealing.

Michael has a motor in bits at the moment. I’ll nip around later and take a few pics and post them up so you can see what’s what.

Those pics to show the oil feed dowel and o-ring recess in the bearing flange. On this motor the dowel stayed in the crankcase, usually they come out with the bearing.

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Much appreciated, Pete! Soon we will start tearing it apart, ill keep u updated!

When you remove the swingarm and final drive DO NOT be tempted to try and follow the service manual! Separate the bevelbox from the swingarm before trying to remove it. Doing the way suggested in the book is madness!

Very interesting reading. Very good advising and communication. Very useful Forum. Love it!!

So we finally opened my GRiSO. It doesnt appear to be the rear main flange semerings fault. The screws were all a bit loose, so no wonder oil bursted from the sides of the flange.

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This clutch end rod/tappet is a bit too loose and bushing around it is shot:
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Also some breather pipes of the blow by system were crumbling, swingarm bearings were shattered, shock linkage bearings were also wonky.
We found grime and oil residue in the throttle bodies.

The weirdness with the thrust piece in the last picture is a new one for me. The other stuff is pretty normal for a bike of this age that hasn’t had any preventative maintenance carried out.

Don’t be tempted to just tighten down the flange bolts. It needs to be removed, the o-ring replaced and the flange reinstalled without a gasket. Use shorter, 20mm bolts in the two lower holes of the flange and seal it’s mating surfaces with a very thin smear of Threebond 1211.

I dunno if anyone else is following this thread but a few years ago I posted an absolute horror story about a bike that had been butchered by a so-called ‘Mechanic’ in northern NSW while attempting to fix a leaky flange. If there is someone who has better search skills than me has it bookmarked or can find it can they link it to this thread as this poor bloke’s mechanic is refusing to listen to him regarding the fix and therefore his bike is going to leak again unless he can be convinced.

That thread was an object lesson in what happens when people neither listen or think!

This one 'ere?


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Yeah, that’s the one. Thanks. I just hope ‘urbanibanani’s mechanic isn’t such an arrogant, incompetent arse!

Thank you guys for the help, I've managed to convince my mechanic to do the job properly!

There is a brilliant back story to this. But we can’t tell you about it! I’m just ROFL!