High engine idle rpm (1500); please advice

Hi experts,

2012 GRiSO 1200 SE, ~30k miles.:

After driving for a short while ( like in few mins ), engine idle rpm shows approx. 1500, and I can feel it is high idle rpm.
Just after cold start, rpm is close to 1100-1150 approx. which feels like normal. But it does not stay there for long.
Even driving for about few miles and stopping, idle rpm climbs to 1500 and stays there the entire time.

Now, I am afraid to ride as I suspect putting it into first gear at 1500 rpm could damage the gears.
Am I correct?
( To be safe, I not riding it until idle rpm issue is resolved/bare minimum riding. )

On my 750 Breva ( which had LOW idle rpm issue ), the problem was resolved after I set the valves to factory specs.
It worked very well after valve adjustment.
Could high idle RPM also because of valve clearances ? or something else ?
Where do I start, what do I look for ?

(btw, I do not have much work experience with my 2012 GRiSO SE, but I have some work experience with 750 Breva--like valve adjustment, fuel pump repair etc.)  

EDIT:
Also, recently it is having problem at cold start, engine cranks fine, but needs to open throttle wide/near full to get started.
Once started, does not want to stay running.
Needs few throttle blips, feels like it is starved of air/fuel.
( Cranking is no problem ).
Engine does not fire up right away, and does not want to stay running.
It runs fine ( except for high idle speed ) once started.
Could it be related?

Thanks in advance !

Far from being an expert. Thinking steppermotor issue.

Deepdive wrote:

Far from being an expert. Thinking steppermotor issue.

What is the stepper motor ? what does it do ? where is it located ?
How to repair this motor issue ?

Thanks!

Well, we got a search mode in the magnificant GRiSO ghetto.

Deepdive wrote:

Well, we got a search mode in the magnificant GRiSO ghetto.

Unfortunately, my search did not yield much useful information for in my case.
Maybe, someone can point out a link.

Before you do anything else watch this, check your TB’s and get back to me.



Oh, and a 1,500 RPM idle won’t harm anything. But if the bike is tuned correctly it should idle at 1,250 +/- 50.

Have you got any further with this?

Pete Roper wrote:

Before you do anything else watch this, check your TB’s and get back to me.



Oh, and a 1,500 RPM idle won’t harm anything. But if the bike is tuned correctly it should idle at 1,250 +/- 50.

Excellent, Excellent video !
Thank you so much for taking effort to make, & explain in detail. ( Very pleased with quality of video, impressive )
Now I feel less intimidated about the tuning process.

Sadly, after our home improvement project, my tools are all over the place, our garage is a huge mess, just to find the tools in garage is a challenge.
But I intent to get to it/make progress as time/energy permits.

I am thinking starting with valve adjustment/check first.
Then, as you explained, proceed to the next step using your video as a guide.

I have never used a manometer before.
( stupid me, I gave away the manometer that came with my previous BMW R1150RT, thinking that I will not work on complicated repairs, so I won't need one ).
Anyway, I am thinking if possible I will have to find a way to either rent it or borrow.
If not, which one should I purchase ? I prefer one that will get the job done &which is not too expensive.
I am open to getting a used one too.

Thanks again & appreciated your help very much!

As for a manometer? Morgan Carbtune is a decent, inexpensive device.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Linky.

You also need a beater laptop and cables along with Guzzidiag to tune a W5AM Guzzi successfully.

$133 on Amazon. It’s a must have.

Oh, and being a 2012 I see no mention of whether the machine has been rollerised, or if it needed it! What is it’s engine number, (Stamped on the LHS of the block near the oil filler/dipstick orifice.)

Sounds like TB to me as I had a similar challenge in having to slightly open the throttle to start.

My first thought is too much air and/or too little fuel. You describe an al;msot classic case of an intake air leak that causes the engine to run lean and demand more fuel by raisng the RPM's. Even your need to open the throttle to ghet it to start when its cold.

As I wrote it could be too much air OR too little fuel since either one creates a lean condition. Yes the throttle bodies being well out of adjustment or plugged injectors in one or both could cause that but be looking for any unmetered air getting into the system as well. Even a plugged fuel filter.