oil pressure sensor

G'day all
Yes, today I got the dreaded service triangle and oil can.
So, I need to fit a new oil pressure sensor
Question, specification and supplier needed !!
I read that some have used the BMW one numbered 1546836 !!
Are these better, more reliable from the oem's ?
I see that the wiring connection is different, is this an issue ?
It would appear this is a common issue, what did you use ?
Have a great day
Cheers

The actual switches all work on the same principle. It's just the fitting that connects them to the loom that is different. There are three types at least. One with a round terminal, one with a spade terminal and one with a plastic clip fitting. The last one is NLA but both the others are readily available and to the best of my knowledge both the round terminal and spade terminal use the same thread form. I have them in stock if you need one.

Do you know which oil pump you have? Later 1100's had the trochoidal Gerotor pump that was known to shatter it's outside rotor. This was the usual cause of the 'Oil Can Light of Death'. A dodgy switch usually just throws up a 'Service' warning. Just be aware.

Pete

Hello Pete
Thanks for your reply
Not sure of what type of pump this bike has
I am prepared to take the risk on the issue being the sender, when this alarm occurred I just turned off and back on without the warning, then rode home 25 ks, no issues
I would appreciate you sending an oem down to me if possible, I will pm you my details
Thanks, then the dreaded quik release.
Have a great day

No need to remove the tank on the 1100 I don't think. Just the LH pipe. Can you see which sort of top fitting the switch has? If not I'll send you one with a spade. I'll need an address too PM me.

Pete

Pete
Sent pm whilst you were replying above so I did not answer your question in relation to the sensor top fitting , I will have a look and get back to you.
From what your intimating these sensors are not in the valley as with the 1200s
Thanks

Really easy to get to - NOT - PITA on my bike which may be a bit different to yours...

Hi again Pete
Had a look around the LH exhaust area an could not find anything like a pressure sensor so cannot answer your question
Had a look in the 1100 service book and what I think is this sensor shows a spade in one photo and a slide on in another, in the v
I think a spade one is the way to go !
Some mention that this issue is sometimes this connection being the problem not the sensor its self but I am not accessing to ascertain unless I have a replacement in case.
Thanks

Wardentm,

I have to pull the tank to get at the sending unit.

With my G11 it's not the oil pressure sending unit, it's the absolutely worthless electrical connection at top of the sender.  I crimped the bayonet connector and the problem went away -- for a while.

When I replace my alternator belt in the next couple of weeks I'm going to solder a spade connection to the top of the sending unit so that I get a decent connection.  I have a spare that I bought a year ago

Thanks NF
I have had no return of the problem suggesting something not consistant as you suggest, I will have a look when I can.
Have a great day

Trev, if you have the slide on spade, you will have problems from time to time, because IT'S A LOUSY CONNECTOR STYLE. Try as I might, I cannot get mine problem free - and I am in the electrical/electronics game. FIIK. Moving the wire with a long screwdriver usually does the trick. Either that, or starting before the instrument sweep is finished - where this error throws up.

Tony,

If you were going to revise the connection which type would you go to?

As long as I'm breaking out the soldering iron I might as well improve on the connection. I'll just have to keep the heat to the sending unit to a minimum.

Mark

Mark, many bikes of yesteryear used the ubiquitous bullet connector - these seemed to work and would be worth converting. Sure, care with heat is the name of the game, but remember, solder hardens with vibration until it too breaks or causes a dry joint.

The real problem is the oil sensor switch "should" have a pigtail lead and an appropriate connector can be attached to suit anyones desire. However this is not the case, and we need to work with what we have.

Has anyone seen one of these oil pressure switches with a pigtail? Don't worry about what it terminates in - easily "adjusted".

Hi Pete
Received the sender you sent today, thanks
Please find a pm for you
Caoi

The BMW series 1 has the the same clip on connector and cheaper than genuine mg part, think it was the 2007 year for bmw

On the continuing Oil pressure saga I decided last weekend with the heavy rain here in California, I would pull the tank and replace the pressure sender with the new one I purchased that has a normal spade connection for my G1100.

After getting the tank off the real trick I figured out is:  21mm crow foot on 8" extension  You can reach over the cylinder head between the various wires/tubes and get enough leverage to loosen the old sensor  without removing the alternator or bolt.

Of course you have to spin the old sensor out with just your finger tips.  no easy feat using one of each hand

Then I got the bad news:  the old sensor is a coarse thread and my new super-duper correct electrical connection is fine thread.

So I took a time out and worked on my Zen.........Then cleaned the old sensor as best I could, sanded the deformed copper crush washer to get the best electrical contact I and cleaned the engine block and threads.

Next I reinstalled the old sensor.  It only took about 15 minutes with two rest sessions to get the damn Sensor to screw in using one finger tip of my right hand and one of my left.  It's all I could get on the sensor in the really cramped space

A little arm torque yes I do have a torque wrench but chose not to use it.

Crimped the lousy bullet connector tight with long tiny needle nose pliers and put the rubber cap back on.

So far no oil leaks and no red triangle of death.

I'll give it another 5,000 miles before I declare it cured.