Rear Suspension Removal

Question if this is the optimal route to removing rear suspension unit ? (I went about this but in a longer route as I got as far as suspension off with nothing else touched, but unable to quite squeeze it out the left hand side with side panel in place)......This is a test run if I need to replace original shock which won't adjust without hammering the ring around; so going to fettle it on bench & decide. But all has to be back together for great weather tomorrow !

Prop up under sump & don't use centre stand (need left side panel loose)
Remove exhaust silencer section (I needed to as wanted to hammr bolt out of conrod & CARC case)
Remove rear wheel
Remove lower suspension bolt
Remove 13mm upper bolt with shortish 13mm ring spanner that best fits the gap
Remove three of 4 left side panel bolts but keep the one next to gearshift connected but loosened
Rotate left side panel & hold top with bungey
Pull shock out of LHS side

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Paul, sounds good to me, i had mine attached to the roof so i could lift it up nice and high to drop out the shock. getting to the top bolt is a little fiddly, but you don't have to remove the air box, just use an angle attachment to your socket.

I don't understand how you drop the shock out the bottom unless you remove the swing arm - The limits on dropping it out below are the gas unit at the top and the lower wishbone support in the frame ? By the way found that despite meticulously forcing grease into the double conrod needle bearings when I did the swing arm 2 years ago; they look rusty and horrible now. Looks like they need regular greasing.....knew ones going cheap on ebay too

If you remove the Carc torque arm rear bolt it allows the swing arm to drop down a bit more, and gives you a bit more room to pull the shock. I wrap the spring in a soft cloth to prevent scratching the swing arm or Spring.

Hello;

last week i changed my rearshock to a Stelvio one.

Battery and batterybox removed, airbox lifted (just 4 screws). Rear wheel and silencer not removed, bike on Becker Stand. 1,5 hour inclusive the Guinnes Draft after work.

Regards

Sven

f-man wrote:

Hello;

last week i changed my rearshock to a Stelvio one.

Battery and batterybox removed, airbox lifted (just 4 screws). Rear wheel and silencer not removed, bike on Becker Stand. 1,5 hour inclusive the Guinnes Draft after work.

Regards

Sven

............DITTO

Sounds like the way to go - will try that next time (very soon). Sven, would be really interested to understand how the Stelvio shock compares to GRiSO and if you are using OEM Stelvio or Matris/Wilbers/call it anything cheaper replacement - all the replacement shops say they can't recommend it as its a completely different bike, not designed for that use etc.

That to me would indicate that these *Shops* don't understand anything about how motorbikes/cycle geometry works.

It's not like the steering parameters are being altered radically. See Wayne's advice on being VERY careful with radical changes, especially with trail, but this is just a bit of weight transfer and a minor trail alteration through changing the steering head angle!

God's Teeth!

Pete Roper wrote:

That to me would indicate that these *Shops* don't understand anything about how motorbikes/cycle geometry works.

It's not like the steering parameters are being altered radically. See Wayne's advice on being VERY careful with radical changes, especially with trail, but this is just a bit of weight transfer and a minor trail alteration through changing the steering head angle!

God's Teeth!

paulbrice wrote:

I don't understand how you drop the shock out the bottom unless you remove the swing arm - The limits on dropping it out below are the gas unit at the top and the lower wishbone support in the frame ?

Paul you could be right, i did remove the swingarm at the same time and althzimers may be creeping in!

I thoroughly recommend the Stelvio shock LENGTH, from memory it is about 10mm longer eye to eye (330mm). Has several advantages.

1. Increases rear ride height approx 30mm which;
a). Shortens rake approx 1* to 23.5 degrees on the GRiSO. (Start with your forks pulled down to the top line)
b). Increases ground clearance.

2. Adds compliance by;
a). Slightly longer stroke length of the Stelvio shock so you have more travel.
b). Adds a little extra movement at the higher end of the rocker ratio. Rising rate starts at approx 3:1 and diminishes at full compression.

Obviously, if you use a "TOO SOFT" spring, you will gain nothing.

The greater benefits of a high end quality shock are well documented on this forum.

Disclaimer: I haven't played with a Stelvio nor compared swingarm, rocker or dog bone part # with GRiSO/Breva/Sport/Bellagio etc.
Stelvio specs claim rear wheel travel of 170mm, until I measured it I would exclaim, "bullshit".

I am on GRiSO #3 ('09, '07 and now '13).  I have changed the rear shock on all three by removing the battery and unscrewing the airbox and tipping it out of the way, unbolting the shock and bringing it straight up through the frame.  When I did the swingarm bearings I had to hang the bike from a beam.

The stock Stelvio shock is actually easier to put in and take out.  I am very happy with it and made no changes to the front apart from softening both compression and rebound.


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

paulbrice wrote:

Sounds like the way to go - will try that next time (very soon). Sven, would be really interested to understand how the Stelvio shock compares to GRiSO and if you are using OEM Stelvio or Matris/Wilbers/call it anything cheaper replacement - all the replacement shops say they can't recommend it as its a completely different bike, not designed for that use etc.

Some time passed, but the weather was wet and cold. It´s an OEM Stelvio shock and after 500 km it´s time to say: it works, but not much better than the original one. The stiffer spring and the additional length gave me more incline position (in german "Schräglagenfreiheit"). So the invest of 100 Euro for a 100 km used shock is ok for me, but it is not as good as a Matris, Ohlins or Wilbers will be.

Sven

f-man wrote:

Some time passed, but the weather was wet and cold. It´s an OEM Stelvio shock and after 500 km it´s time to say: it works, but not much better than the original one. The stiffer spring and the additional length gave me more incline position (in german "Schräglagenfreiheit"). So the invest of 100 Euro for a 100 km used shock is ok for me, but it is not as good as a Matris, Ohlins or Wilbers will be.
Sven

I am in favor of the "Schräglagenfreiheit"

At 6'4" and 230 LBS I find the stock Stelvio shock perfect for my needs. I have a custom seat (raised and pocket moved back) and 1' lower pegs as well. I took it out on a track day last season and did not scrape anything or fall down so "alles ist gut".