Oil Light Failure

I have read that the oil pressure switch is a common problem but as far as I can I can tell all is owrking well but the oil pressure warning light no longer comes on with the ignition. Just had the bike serviced and I notice on the job sheet under 'comments' - 'oil light not working'. Would have expected the workshop to sort that out before telling me to come and collect the bike and just listing that the oil light doesnt work......anyone know if oil light failure is a common issue and what causes it, what the fix is?

I've seen lots about lights coming on and DS07 & DS08 faults caused by the sensor in the 'V'; but hard to see how a failed sensor (open circuit or closed circuit) wouldn't light the dash warning either at diagnostic or during running.....maybe that's why they wrote the 'light isn't working' and it's a problem in the dash.

Sorry? Further explanation please. Are you saying that when the dash is doing its sweep one of the LED's isn't working? Or is this t just that once the sweep is completed the only lights left on are the sidestand and neutral? There is no oil light that stays on in normal service.

Pete

If I turn on the ignition the dash does its sweep but I get no oil light lighting up at all. The guy who completed the service left a note on the worksheet/invoice saying 'oil light is not working'. I have just called the workshop and the mechanic was not there but the fellah who answered the phone said that he would check if they had a replacement switch and call me back. Said the switch is tricky to fit an dis somewhere at the back of the V. He assumes its the switch I just dont know what it is.

Could be a loose or corroded conection in the instrument panel (there is a connector inside the panel case), or the led itself although not likely.

No ECU errors?

No ECU errors, all works fine just no oil light at all.

If the sensor was the problem you would get an ECU error me thinks.

'if the sensor was the problem' - do you mean the switch? Dont want to buy a switch if thats not needed!

I've fussed with my Oil light sensor/switch and I really doubt it's your problem.  When the sensor doesn't work you get the red oil light on the sweep and it stays on before you start the engine.  

Normally the light goes off after the sweep - it's a test.

When the sensor isn't properly grounded or not working correctly the red light stays on before you start the engine - which is how I figured out mine was the sensor.  I assumed it was because the ECU could not "see" the sensor.

The $35 or so sensor is somewhat tricky to replace as the generator doesn't allow the use of the usual socket.  I did mine with a crow's-foot and 6" extension to break tension on the sender then spin it out with fingertips.  A thorough cleaning of contact surfaces for good ground and spin the new one in.  I did take out the fuel tank - always fun with the quick releases.

Make sure you get the right thread on the sensor.

My bet is it a dash light or connection to the dash light.  pray that it's not the ECU

Thanks. Everything works fine, I just don't get any oil light lighting up at any point in the ignition sequence. So based on your post I am expecting it to be dash light or the connector.
I don't have any ECU error codes or any other 'messages' coming up, just the normal sweep of the rev counter and the other lights light up - sidestand etc - but no oil light.
It was working fine, came on with the sweep and then switched itself off, just now I don't get any ;light at all and no error codes/messages.
Irritating as the service was 96 miles away and my mate who builds new looms for bikes and is very switched on (!) with electrics is over 100 miles away. So I will just have to trial and error it starting with the lamp itself and the dash connector and hope its nothing more than that.

You could also check for corrosion on the two connectors to the ECU, I don't think the ECU itself is the problem, very unlikely.

During the sweep all lights on the dash light up, if this is inituated from the dash itself then only the light can be at fault, but if the ECU is responsible for the sweep it could be the connectors or wiring.

It's bound to be the sensor. You could try shorting it to the chassis with a long screwdriver to see whether you can get the light to reappear upon switch on. If so, then definitely the sensor.

kiwi dave wrote:

It's bound to be the sensor.  You could try shorting it to the chassis with a long screwdriver to see whether you can get the light to reappear upon switch on.  If so, then definitely the sensor.

I don't think so, during the sweep all lights turn on no matter what state the switches are in, i.e. side stand in or out (on or off).

What klaas said. If the light doesn't come on during the dash startup, then its most likely a problem in the dash. This is independant of the ECU, so do not be concerned that the ECU is playing up.

It may not be the LED itself..could be dry joints on the dash circuit board. That's more likely than a LED failure.

There are companies specialized in motorcycle dash repair:

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Thanks all. I will concentrate diagnostics on dash and connections. Hopefully get it sorted. No problems with my oil pressure or level but don't want to wait till something grumbled to alert me before a light comes on. Will let you know what the remedy is soon as I find it.

beetle wrote:

What klaas said. If the light doesn't come on during the dash startup, then its most likely a problem in the dash. This is independant of the ECU, so do not be concerned that the ECU is playing up.

Don't agree. If the oil pressure switch is not closed, the light will not come on even with a fully functional dash. Usually, instead a service message appears. I've replaced several oil switches and the prognosis is always the same.

Sometimes you can coach the pressure switch to behave by starting the engine and running for a little while. Then switch off, and wait around 10 seconds; the switch settles down and provides the prestart contact condition for the dashboard light.

That's why I was suggesting the test with a long screwdriver to determine whether it is the pressure switch or not. Also, sometimes the connection at the pressure switch can go wonky, emulating a failed switch, but it won't fool the long screwdriver test (Actually, I use a piece of brass brazing rod as it's easier to manipulate).

It may not be the LED itself..could be dry joints on the dash circuit board. That's more likely than a LED failure.