Re-Torquing Head & Gaskets

I posted a similar topic on guzzitech, but they don't seem as active over there for Grisos and I want to hedge my bets. I have a 15 GRiSO that I did the after run in maintenance on recently. During setting the valve clearances I stripped one of the nuts, and I replaced the nut as well as the screw just in case. $40 later its in and everything's good and bike seems to be running fine all is well.

Only problem though now, is with replacing the screw I had to loosen the main studs to get the rocker cover off. When I did it, I only loosened and re-torqued the main bolts, I did not loosen and re-torque the other two screws. Not very smart, I know.

After thinking about it further, I am fairly paranoid about the whole thing. Do I run the risk of a leaky head by loosening and re-crushing the head gasket? Do I run a bigger risk by not loosening and re-torquing all the bolts? I'm relatively ok with replacing the head gasket, but am I safe just waiting for a leak before I replace it?

Either way, I am dying to go out and ride as it's been down for a few weeks, but the paranoia is killing me at the moment.

thanks in advance.

Although it wasn't best practice, I don't see how undoing & re-doing bolts will fix anything and don't see how riding it will make anything worse than it is.... so ride it and see rather than waste time fixing something that isn't broke !!

My experience, I definitely didn't 'gently' sequentially un-torque the small bolts when I took head off because I found them and slackened them AFTER loosening the main bolts.... I had to remove head and did replace gasket and I did sequentially re-torque them all but no leaks so presume no harm done.

So I doubt whether you messed up the gasket if you didn't take the head off, and I'm not sure how hard it is to warp the head by not undoing the small inside bolts but hopefully you got away with it. .. I'm sure there are others who can share experiences

If it's not leaking then you're fine to go. While it is good practice to loosen the 6mm bolts it's obviously not caused any harm.

thank you for the input. I think I'm going to keep it as is, but monitor for any weeping. If I see even the hint of it, I will go about replacing the head gaskets. If I do, I'll make sure to take a little more care next time.

It won't happen BUT if it starts leaking oil due to not uniformly releasing bolts then it's as likely warped the head as anything to do with the gasket. I think that would mean a skim or new head as new or thicker gasket may not work for that - just saying !

Oh I definitely understand that, paulbrice. If it does leak I will need to take that into consideration when I take the head off to replace the gasket. I'm sure I'll be back for advice if it does start weeping too.

thanks

I have weeping from the base of my left CYL. whats the appropriate torque spec?

I think the manual calls for a set spec then +90 deg? but Im nervous about over torquing.

Are you sure it's weeping from the base gasket? More likely is oil tracking around the joint from the oil pressure sender. If it is the gasket re-torquing won't help, it'll need replacement as the gaskets are non compressible steel laminates.

Pete

About 90% Certain its the base gasket- Had a picture on my old phone but it would start to weep at exactly the center of it and have a nice flow path down.

I saw weep because it is just that- It is never enough oil to 'drip' on the ground, but you can definitely see it.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but it may help keep useful information together.

The 8v beast now has about 7000 miles on it, and I'm starting to see a small amount of oil coming from the right cylinder. Careful inspection shows it isn't coming from the cooling gallery plugs as some others have reported, but it does seem to be coating the fins on either side of the head gasket (the one just below the cooling gallery plugs, not the one at the base).

Reading this thread, I gather that this is not just a matter of re-torquing the head but that in fact I will have to replace the gasket. Have I read this correctly, or is a simpler fix available? If I do have to replace it and choose to use the same thickness (mentioned in another thread), is there any way to tell which one to order prior to disassembly?

Awaiting the wisdom of the sages....

Check all other possibilities first. The cooling feed banjo bolts for instance can weep and then the oil can creep around the gasket edge. Weeping head gaskets are basically unheard of. That doesn’t mean it’s impossible, simply very, very rare. Could also be porosity in the casting.

Pete