GRiSO Valve Adjustment

No need for a TDC or timing marks really so they didn't bother.

So is it there on the 2017 or not likely?

DaSwami wrote:

So is it there on the 2017 or not likely?

Unlikely.
Regardless of registration year, the last batch of GRiSO’s were manufactured September 2015.

eeyore wrote:

DaSwami wrote:

So is it there on the 2017 or not likely?

Unlikely.
Regardless of registration year, the last batch of GRiSO’s were manufactured September 2015.

Mine was made December 2016

DaSwami wrote:

eeyore wrote:

DaSwami wrote:

So is it there on the 2017 or not likely?

Unlikely.
Regardless of registration year, the last batch of GRiSO’s were manufactured September 2015.

Mine was made December 2016

Bike or vin tag?

Both?

When I was at the factory for the '95th anniversary they still had engines marked 'GRiSO' in baskets waiting for installation so I think the last ones rolled off the line in late 2016.

Just to follow up on my earlier question about the "earlier" or "later" gasket types, you were right Mr. Pete Roper...looks like I have the "later" version. Thanks again for the advice!
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Not to dogpile on this thread but opening my new to me 2017 SE I found the exhausts on both sides to be .23-.25mm and intakes to be .18-.20 with only one intake being .15mm. The bike runs like shit right now especially at idle.

Seeing as how I'll be going to the Beetle Map whenever my Agrostini shows up in a couple months I read all over the internet that it's .15mm inlet and .20mm outlet? But reading more internet posts some say .10mm intake and .15 exhaust?

0.1mm inlet, 0.15mm exhaust. 4 & 6 though in the old money.

They were originally 0.1 & 0.15. Then 0.15 & 0.20 was touted in a vain attempt to slow down flat tappet failure. IIRC. Then confusion reigned supreme when the later model specs stayed at the "new specs".

I use 0.1 & 0.15 when building the maps, so that's what you should too. It has been proven that the gaps open up (contrariwise) as the heads heat up due to the greater expansion rate of the alloy carriers. If you use 0.15 & 0.2 you end up with cavernous gaps and a correspondingly clattery engine.

The wider gaps were specified during the time the factory was thrashing about looking for a cure for the flat tappet fiasco. 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust are fine, especially as the gaps open up when the engine is hot.

If you have adjusted the valves and it's now running like shit I ask two questions.

1.) Have you cleared the trims?

2.) How did you go about removing the plug caps to lift the rocker cover?

(Edited due to shitty proof reading by an idiot prior to posting!

Pete Roper wrote:

The wider gaps were specified during the time the factory was thrashing about looking for a cure for the flat tappet fiasco. 0.1 inlet and 0.5 exhaust are fine, especially as the gaps open up when the engine is hot.

If you have adjusted the valves and it's now running like shit I ask two questions.

1.) Have you cleared the trims?

2.) How did you go about removing the plug caps to lift the rocker cover?

It was running like shit prior to adjusting the valves, I adjusted them but haven't fired it up yet. I set the valves to .15 and .20mm and then posted my question above just to double check before I buttoned everything back up since it didn't feel or seem right with such a large gap. I'll go back in and re-adjust tomorrow after I get home from work. I did the zip-tie trick as I didn't have a thin and long enough screwdriver to pop them out from the bottom. I am ordering plug wires and caps to have on hand for when they fail.

I still need to balance the throttle bodies (need to make a manometer) and fire up GuzziDiag for the first time and figure out how to reset the TPS and clear the trims. The sacred screw everyone talks about I also need to check and make sure the previous owner didn't mess with; he didn't seem like he knew much about it. But seeing how loose the valves were I think I found the source of the poor idle when cold and why it was making so much noise. I also need to figure out how to get rid of the evaporative canister.

Other minor issues is there's a small slow leak around the rear side of the gearbox maybe one drip of oil every 3-4 days (that was with me riding it 5-10 miles every day) in the last week. Looks like gearbox oil as the Motul 10w-60 I put in the engine has a red hue which hasn't gone away yet.