Service Indicator

my 2014 has now done 7500 miles. Was last serviced in July 17 at 5700 miles. Recently I had the 'spanner' symbol show up on the dash from a quick look in the manual this inidicates that service is due. I assumed this was wrong and was probably just triggered by the mileage going past the regular service mileage interval, that I had had the service done early (on mieage) and the workshop had probably not reset the system. Now I have the SERVICE logo reading in big black letters. Bike is booked into Twiggers on Sat, which is about 120 miles from me. Spoke to Twiggers today who said SERVICE means there is a fault. How do I identify the fault and check I am not about to cause any collateral damage by riding to Twiggers early Sat morning?! Bike seems all tickety-boo, only thing I have noticed is a slight 'tappety' clicking from the left hand pot when under load/acceleration, which I took to indicate that valve clearances may need checking/adjusting. Advice for a mechanical numpty welcome!
Incidentally I am planning to go to BSB Donington Sunday if any fellow GRiSO riders are going do let me know.

Error codes can be seen in the diagnostic menu on the dash. You'll need to enter the diagnostic access code, which is in the banner at the top of each Ghetto page.

Is that 12425?

Correct.

Thanks. I will try to navigate the diagnostics and will report back.

In traditional Italian fashion...
the SPANNER icon means the bike needs a service. Its a mileage thing.
whereas the SERVICE icon means you need to get the spanners out, something is amiss...

you can re-set the spanner easily enough, and by inserting the code as suggested, you can also find the fault/s, which are listed here [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] (thanks to Kiwi Roy)
and are in the service manual available in the electronic manuals section GRiSO Ex Libris...

It’s ECU error 56 - Vehicle Speed Error.
I’ve obviously been riding too slowly.
Anyway hopefully all safe to ride 120 odd miles to Twiggers tomorrow morn for service.
Many thanks for help which got me into the diagnostic section

Speedo sensor errors can mean water in the sensor. That can lead to no speedo on the dash, and even a blank dash. You may have to ride-by-rpm.

Thanks. I’ll check it out on route this morning.

Try just unplugging the sensor, (Connector on the RH side just behind the side plate/pork chop). If the dash LED comes back on its almost certainly an internal short in the switch. They aren't spendy, just fling a new one at it and see if it fixes it.

Pete

Thanks I’ll give it a go. Now at Twiggers for service. The SERVICE message was lit up in the bottom of the display when I fired her up this morning, but by the time I’d got out the gate it was all clear again.

Found Twiggers in Loughborough U.K. excellent today. £340 for full service inc plugs, oil and air filters, oils, brake fluid. 3.5hra labour, balanced throttles which seems to have cured slightly high Rickover which increased to 1500/1600 when clutch pulled in. Now all good.
Speedo sensor issue they put down to dust or water on the disc bolts, or whatever you call the things that spin round with the wheel and are read by the sensor, or not. Might be following my cleaning efforts after trip to Le Mans over Easter. Anyway all now good.
Happy to recommend Twiggers to others in the U.K.
Had a Stelvio and 2 x 8v sports awaiting rollerisation too

Not sure I understand what they are telling you on either of those things Brendan
1. I though speed uplift on clutch pull was in the map somewhere (combined with first use of neutral after start etc)...more knowledgeable Ghetto players will know the truth....
2. Surely water & dust are the normal environment for a rear wheel speed sensor ? Cleaning it with high pressure washer is sure way to compromise an already dodgey speed sensor with known water egress issues BUT presence of water & dust on the wheel nuts is surely normal - and what is their suggested solution around riding in the wet or brake and general dust on nuts ??

They may as well have said Unicorns caused it.

The idle rise with clutch in is part of the map software. Can only be fixed by a different map. Typically, it rises 300-500 RPM.

The speedo sensor uses the Hall effect to sense the wheel rotation. So, unless the water and dust were ferrous or magnetic, they speak nonsense.

I have to say that while Twiggers have an excellent reputation they've gone down a bit in my estimation if that was their *Solution* to your problem. It will be almost certain to recur. If I were you I'd just buy a new speedo sensor, or at the very least take it off and seal it with something like silicone after drying it thoroughly.

Part #883768 an outrageous €40 from TLM so I'd shop around. I'm sure I've got them cheaper elsewhere before now.

They pointed at some rust on the rotating bits on the wheel. Possibly resulting aftery cleaning, which didn’t poke the jet wash at high pressure or aggressively. Said the ‘rust’ cleans off with use which may explain why service light has gone out once I got going yesterday on way to Twiggers. As for clutch it was causing revs to rise by 300 or so to 1500/1600. Now seems more like 1300/1400 which feels better. When I mentioned it and that the clutch throttle switch when changing gear under hard acceleration was quite abrupt, they said might be down to throttle balance and they’d check it.
Not sure anything they suggested warrants hanging them. I found the service and attitude excellent. Very thorough too uploading onto the Guzzi service records on computer. Now at Donington for BSB - looks like racing could be a bit wet today

PS. Tickiver now around 1050/1100 and with clutch in rises to 1250 ish. Issue on abruptness when changing gear under hard acceleration seems to be that revs down fall quickly as clutch is disengaged. Slow to drop revs so despite feeding clutch as progressively as I can while still accelerating the transition from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th is very abrupt. Not different to pre service just hasn’t really changed.

Gakk! Sorry, but there is a lot of *Wrong* going on there. Just for starters the target idle is set in the map. If they've managed to lower it they've either modified the map, played with the CO trim if they are using an OL map or, (Shudder!) played with the bits that shouldn't of been played with.

I, fuck, I just don't want to guess......

Well it all seems better and I don’t have a speedo sensor fault no more. Having done about 6500 miles since I bought her I had noticed the idle was higher and seemed to rise more noticeably when clutch disengaged. As a total mechanical nimpty I have no idea what they have done but having been in their workshop yesterday and spoken with them I have every confidence that they have followed correct procedure. May be my lack of mechanical knowledge is misdescribing the issues. Anyway all good. Just the abrupt power delivery when accelerating hard and changing into next gear, progressively releasing clutch and adding throttle but seems impossible to be gentle as power comes in. Think it’s fuel rather than clutch and if anything my seat of pants feeling is that it’s still fuelling on closed throttle. Might take her to Mark Berwin for map diagnosis sometime. He worked wonders on a KTM990 and a Ducati 748 for me in years gone by.

Only the abruptness as you change gear under hard acceleration that’s a bit irritating, but not impossible to live with. My seat if the pants thinking is that it’s fuelling related and is still feeling on closed throttle and as clutch is progressively released and throttle opened the power take up is abrupt. Maybe just the big slugs slow to react to a closed throttle, or fuel map needs tweaking. Maybe take her to Mark Berwin at

Mark Brewin at BSD, very good on fuel maps

Do you have a 5mm Allen key? If so just try to turn, gently, the air bleed screws on both throttle bodies. If they are both open that will be the reason for the strange throttle behaviour. Make sure the throttle stop screw hasn't been fiddled with as well.

Ok will do. Thanks.

Pete Roper wrote:

Gakk! Sorry, but there is a lot of *Wrong* going on there. Just for starters the target idle is set in the map. If they've managed to lower it they've either modified the map, played with the CO trim if they are using an OL map or, (Shudder!) played with the bits that shouldn't of been played with.

I, fuck, I just don't want to guess......

A TPS reset can change the idle speed, without going in to modify the map. So can any changes to the feed from the stepper motor to the throttle inlets.

Just saying ......

Yes, but target idle is still 1200+/- 50 and the idle shouldn't hang.

Idle now seems to be fine. Bike running well. Just that abruptness changing gear under hard acceleration. I’ll have to do some focussed road testing and avoid being arrested.