Gearbox neutral switch

I don't think mine was the only early GRiSO that suffered from a neutral light that only worked half-time. Has this problem gone away with later years' parts? I've had a new switch to fit for some time but the switch is difficult to access. I previously asked in various places for advice or if anyone had photos but there wasn't response. I've done a search here and I don't see anything on this, so now here are a few photos.

At last I've taken the airbox out to change the switch. In the box there is some sort of shaft with a flat area on it to actuate the switch plunger. In the photo of my original switch and the newer switch, you can see that the newer part has a slightly longer plunger. I am hoping that the plunger length/action is the source of the problem and that now the neutral indicator light will function correctly. Has anyone else found that changing the switch sorted out this issue?

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Thanks for posting this. I frequently have trouble getting the light to activate, and I recall Pete telling me it was in a right frontbottom of place to get at. I see that now. I'm not sure I want to swap it out just yet, but at least I can see how to.

You need to get a box spanner on it as there isn't much space between the switch nut and the gearbox case and its sitting in a sunken position between stuff.. There's no room for manoeuvre without taking airbox out of the way.

I see you use one of my prefered methods for measuring, the bamboo kebab stick.
Good job

Very early in the life of the 'Nuovo Six Speed' there was a service bulletin released by the factory stressing the importance of always using a new sealing washer and torquing the sender very precisely.

Having said that in my experience the only issues I've seen have been caused by a loose connection betwixt spade and button on the end of the switch. In general I've found the switches, like the gearboxes themselves, to be bulletproof.

Pete

Bamboo skewer: every garage should one, preferably more than one. Also cocktail sticks.

Sealing washer: in that case it would be helpful for MG to extravagantly include a little washer in the packet with the new switch. Hey, hmm I've just noticed in the service manual that I have, the switch is shown in a different location. A mistake in where the line is drawn, or did early / 1100 boxes have the switch in a different place? (Hole in top of gearbox.)

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The spade connection isn't great, but my half-time operation hasn't been due to that. As the top terminal is the accessible part of the switch I have checked that connection on various occasions and ensured it was tight. I replaced the spade too, soldered the wire, stuck the boot to the case so it didn't jiggle about...

The original switch does have less plunger movement than the new one, so the off/on transition happens very quickly.

Belfastguzzi wrote:

The original switch does have less plunger movement than the new one, so the off/on transition happens very quickly.

Goodo. This is what I want. My neutral light works OK, it's just I have to often lightly caress the gear lever to get it come on.

A right front-bottom indeed!
I managed to get mine off on the Sport, 'adjust' the grip of the spade, and replace it by removing the pork chop and disconnecting a few plugs and moving one of the relays.
But... from reading here and elsewhere, it seems that you can start with an inoperable neutral light.
My Sport however, seems to be a 'no light...no go' issue.
No green light, definately in neutral, clutch in, stand up and all combinations of the set.... no go.
Wiggled the spade connection and got a green, and got a start.

I await the invaluable insight gentlemen...

Hello bahamazoo

Check and see with Guzzidiag, look switch operation CLUTCH: means contact open/closed.
                                      operation STAND : means contact open/closed

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To the best of my knowledge the switch position hasn't changed with the two gearbox designs. The changes are all internal and don't affect the shift mechanism.

There was a service bulletin early in the piece about the necessity of being very accurate with the torque on the switch and the importance of always using a new washer. Perhaps the newer switches have a longer throw? I dunno, I've never had to replace one.

Pete

Cheers JC and Pete (not the first time those two have appeared in a sentence I'll bet!!!)

After contemplating the last drop of a bottle of OverProof Fiji Rum just now,
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I realised that my 'all combinations' occurred with a clapped out juice box.
She was never gonna start
After replacing said box with 400CCA, I had a no start with the neutral switch plug off the sender unit as I was in gear... the rum was in its penultimate phase at this stage, so the no start was a bit of a godsend... (insert vision of bike starting and running rampart across the garage).
I haven't had opportunity for a run, but she gives me a green light on key turn now, and starts straight up...

Haha, same issue right now at my 2006 GRiSO. Getting the airbox out was easy, but now I have to get it back in position... it sucks.

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Reviving an old one here. My 2014 decided that it didn’t want to show me the green light about 5 minutes after starting a short ride today. At maybe the third stop light I hit, it flickered and then stayed on like it should. From there it worked ok for the rest of the ride. From reading this thread, it seems like I should be checking to see if I have a loose connection. Sounds like it will take a little work to find it and get to it.
Any advice of first things to do would be appreciated.

John

John,

Feel benevolent towards it before you start, go slowly and steadily.

Think about replacing the Tee connector with a 1/4" quick connect spade (they bolt right up with a small metric screw - 3mm I think). I have done this on my oil pressure sensor (same style of connector) as I found the Tee connector troublesome and I was never happy with the connection - always seemed too loose - I like it tight!

Thanks Tony for the advice. If the problem continues, i’ll have to dive in and it will be more apparent what you are describing on the connector. Doesn’t look like you are advocating a new switch.

John, the probability is that it's the electrical connection on top. Due to the number of people NOT changing them, probably indicates the switch failing is unlikely. However, having an electrical connection that can move, gives the intermittent problems as listed. Oil film, road dirt, Verdigris and the like can all be contributors.

Dunno the real cause, it could be the switch itself. Until you get in there, you really won't know.

My neutral light was working intermittently. I was able to remove the connector with a long pair of needle nose pliers. Gave it a good squeeze so it went back on very hard. Haven't had a problem since. Definitely worth a try.
Oh and make sure you stick your tongue out to the left (northern hemisphere only)

And don't bite your tongue off - causes other issues...

Sounds like a plan. Thank you.

Well, Its definitely a loose connection to the switch. I've tried to monkey with it and give it a squeeze but I'm afraid I'll make it worse unless I can really get to it. So, how hard is it for a novice to remove the air box and get it back on? Any tips would be appreciated.
Many thanks.

John - I had my airbox out recently and it seems you have to hold your tongue just right to get it out and back in again. The box itself is no issue, it's the boots that connect to the throttle body that make it difficult.
re-attaching the boots to the throttle bodies was also a bit of a challenge. I found that by removing the inspection cover from the airbox, you can slip your hand inside the boot and help line them up with the TB's.

Soak the Rubbers in hot water, they are more pliable

Guys, thanks for the tips. Since I don’t have the blue and orange valve and a smaller rear brake master cylinder I probably have better access then some. This attempt I pulled the cap, which came off easily, gave it a squeeze with some needle nose players and put it back on. It seems relatively tight now. Time will tell. If it starts up again, I’m diving in and using the tips you offered.
Thanks again.

Has anyone had this happen...
Noticed the Green neutral light a few times when changing up the gears ..
While riding its started to flicker the odd time ..
While parked sidestand down &,green neutral on the dash standing beside the bike I flicked the start button ... bike was in gear lunged forward... no time to grab the clutch
Got to the front brake (JUST)and locked it but it kept turning and dragged me 6 mtrs till both me and the bike went over .. the Bastard,
Lucky for me the Engine guard too the hit, oil cooler got a gash [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Thought It couldn't behave like that ... Was lucky where it happened in a big carpark
Neutral light is on all the time now Just in from the NC 500 in Scotland ...2750km of magic so haven't had time to get it sorted yet
Loose connection ? Well dodgy