Anyone know what this is?

I've been struggling to work out the gold standard level of fucktardery as well but... Well, one has to run with what one's got I suppose if your business is so shonky you can't afford to cover your own mistakes......!

Pete

The later A2 engines have a metal to metal join, with the rocker cover internal machined to accept an o ring between to two surfaces. the cover the dealer put on was for the ealier cam box which had a raised tube section (let's call it a male connection) which protruded up into, and located the (female) rocker which had an o ring in a slot inside the spark plug tube. The change was to eliminate the possibility of the rocker cover going live.


Todays update is the The workshop manager at the Rocket Centre has agreed to send photos they took to Piaggio
.

Do you want these fucktards touching your bike again???

No, they are not going near it. I want replacement rocker cover, mushrooms and gasket and a refund of the the cost of the roller kit. I do not have high hopes of this though.

Paul, I've made the rocker cover oil tight by building a barrier of silicon to replace the missing o ring. I checked to make sure silicon was squeezed out around the diameter of the spark plug tube when I replaced the rocker cover, then let the silicon set before starting the motor and pushing oil around.

The oil was kept in after the roller op by overtightening the cover, crushing the mushrooms and rubber gasket - they should be torques to something like 10nm from memory, and the mechanic had tighten as much as possible. Gradually the weep became a drip, which got faster and faster, depositing oil on my gear change toe, making it difficult to change without my toe slipping off the gear change rubber.

Refund now recieved on the left hand rocker cover. I'm still battling to get a refund on the roller kit.

Ok- So I just noticed the same thing that Karman Posted about- I Never made notice to those little holes in the side of the cylinders. Just give them a quick Tightening (3mm Hex?)and we will be good to go?

I would leave well alone until you are sure that the oil isn't coming from the spark plug well. There is a drain hole from the spark plug well, and any oil escaping from the well/ rocker cover will work it's way down there. I would guess that a small worm screw like that would be easy to strip, so check everything else before disturbing.

I'm not sure that it is not coming from the Spark Plug well

You need to rule out the most likely areas where oil can get out of the engine before risking damaging the oil gallery plugs. Take the rocker cover off and examine the gasket and o rings on the cam inspection cover and the spark plug well, and shine a light down the well to see if there's evidence of oil in there.

I'm hopping in here, because I've just experienced a similar situation - but I don't think it's exactly the same.

I've just completed rollerizing a 2012 Norge with the "A" kit. My local dealer handled all communication w/ MG and provided me with the kit free of charge. I did the labor.

Everything was peachy until about 30 seconds into the first startup when I noticed a slight oil leak from the right side, soon followed by slight leak on the left side. Identical leaks on both sides ... a "galley" in the cylinder head casting going from spark plug hole to outside atmosphere, between the fins. There is no screw or plug in the hole ... and there wasn't when I started this rollerization.

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The leak is about a drop every 15-30 seconds.

I ordered the "A" kit, because this is the style valve cover I have ...

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Here's a shot of the original cambox ...

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And here's the replacement cambox already installed ...
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I can see oil in the spark plug hole, which apparently then weeps out the galley to the outside, but I don't know how it's getting there. I'm confident the seal between the valve cover and the machined surface on the top of cambox is sealing, so it's not entering from the top (close inspection shows the seal is wet on the outer ring and bone dry on the inner rings).

I'm stumped where to go from here ... except you guys for some insights!

Help ... Mr. Wizard!!!

I have different layout cam box & tube but looking at diagram below and thinking you have the lower tube version presume the problem is at the bottom 2 seals each end of the short tube that fits below the cam box.... Did you replace both seals & are they sitting right?

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Thanks, Paulbrice! That's the problem, or I could say "I'm the problem".

I didn't realize the tubes and seals needed to be transferred from the old cambox to the new. The "instructions" didn't mention anything about it. They were clear about the rocker shafts, the inserts and the grounding clips (including torque specs) - but nothing about the tubes and seals.

There's no sense in being stupid, unless you show it every once in a while. I'm guess I'm covered for the short term ...

When I rollerised my bike with the A kit, the kit came with new o rings for the cam boxes, where they slip down onto of the tube that protrudes from the head @ the spark plugs hole.  If a person didn't oil those o rings for ease of installation or install them correctly, they could be damaged and you would get oil down in the spark plugs hole, and subsequently draining out the small hole as your pictures indicate. When removing the LH cam box everything went smoothly. When removing the RH cam box, the tube @ the spark plugs hole migrated up about a 1/4" and had to be gently tapped down into place with a rubber mallet, before installing the new cam box.  

I hope you've solved your oil leak problem. It can be frustrating chasing a leak.  I sympathize with you, I had a Yamaha V star that leaked at the back side of the aft cylinder, and the wind would spray the oil all around,  making it hard to diagnose.

I still have not had a chance to take a look at this- as My bike has been at my fathers house in MD while I moved to Boston-

On a side note- any reputable Guzzi Shops in the Boston area?