noise left cilinderhead GRiSO 8v 2009

Hello, i hear a sound when the engine is hot, only on the left side,i was wondering can it come from the left chain tensioner, it is a oil tensioner??, the camshafts have been checked lately at 40000 km, and i have only changed the right one while there was little damage to see on the tappets and camshaft. i did not make a modification and i hope i do not regret this, the engine runs very good , but now this little ticking noise worries me. the valve clearance has been checked again and was perfect. , just seems to come from the camshaftchain or sprocket?? it is not a sound that comes regurlary, it is :thak thak thak and then a second delay and again it comes. Greetings Jos

Has the motor been rollerised?

If it hasn't been rollerised it will be buggered. Why in the name of all that is holy was a flat tappet set-up that had failed been replaced with the same again?

Every time you start the motor it is doing more damage and not just to the top end. Rollerise immediately.

Pete

The motors run very well even if the flatties are grinding away. Sure sign is a rhythmic ticking action. You would think it would effect the performance but it doesn't.

Oh, and if your shop tries to tell you the problem is overblown and only a few fail have a look at this.

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Each of those 20L drums is full of dead camboxes too and then there's this one.

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OK, so there is a busted yoke in that one too but that little lot are only 2018's crop of camboxes from flat tappet bike's I've done in my workshop. Michael, my employee, has about 1/3rd as many again taking up space at his workshop! It's high quality alloy! Worth a few $ per Kg from the scrappy!

Rollerise or perish!

Your tappets are gone Sir.
Rollerrize noaw!

Sadly, I fear that he probably didn't want to hear the answer we gave and has gone off to find the answer he'd prefer elsewhere. Which is a shame but there ya go.......

Hello, i dismantled the camshafts and indeed on the left side a sligthy damage is seen on the cam of the outlet, it was not there a year ago, so i ordered a new set rollercams and dealing with it, because else my bike is worthless!!. The set contains also cilinderheadgaskets, but no cilindergaskets at the bottom. Dont they not come loose when dismantling the cilinderhead i would think ?? I hope i can finish the job as soon as possible. and drive this brute machine. Greetings Jos

No need to replace the base gaskets. The kit should also include shims for under the inlet valves and new valve guide oil seals for those as well.

I would strongly advise dropping the sump off for a good clean out and given that your engine has had repeat flat tappets installed remove and back-flush the oil cooler.

When the engine is reassembled and tuned you will need to remap the ecu. While the factory GRS8V03 map will do the job there are far better alternatives available.

Also if it hasn't been done you will need to grease and/or replace both the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings.

Pete

Hello again, naturally, i can not wait to make the bike running again, i have receive the modificationset, and there are three differend size of headgaskets, 0,65,-0,85 and 1.05 mm. the old one has 0.85, so i assume to put this one back, or are there experiences with putting on the 0.65 mm. so increasing the compressionratio. ? o another thing, the set does not contain 8 valve seals , only 4 pieces ? is that a reason or did they forget 4 ?. also the 2 o -rings for the camshaftcovers, and the copper rings for the oil hoses are not included. i think this should be for that price, don t you think ? greetings Jos

OK, you only get four oil seals because you only have to disturb four valves, the inlets. The shims are presumably to increase the seating force and operational load on the tappets to overcome their extra mass.

While fitting the thinner head gaskets may not result in valve to piston interference the increase in compression ratio and any perceived performance gain will be negligible to non existent.

As for the o-rings and dowry washers? You only disturb two o-rings so only two are supplied. As for the Dowty washers? Yes, they should be supplied but they aren't and in over 150 rollerisations I think I've only had one leak on re use. Just buy a couple of copper or alloy washers with the same dimensions. Cost? €.50c that's an issue? I often fling bits like in on a job and don't even charge. Good grief! If I was running a business on 50c margins, well? I wouldn't be running one for long.

Hello Pete, thanks for your answer to mine remarks, i do not care for a few rings, but one bag in the set was containing nothing , ?!. i am gonna use the 0.85 mm. so there i don t get any issue with pistons making contact with head or valves. Greetings Jos

Yeah, the packing at the factory is very hit or miss. I had one kit delivered where the cambox was disassembled and several vital pieces were missing!

The whole thing is a joke. If it wasn't for the fact the bikes, once sorted, are so good I would of given up years ago.

Hello again, after rollerising the engine, 4000 km. ago, it was running fine untill last week, now i notice that when im driving at 3000-4000 rpm. and i open the throttle, it hesitates under acceleration for a short moment, for instance making a bent and open throttle again, it looks like a ignition failure, it does not acclerate all the way, but it stuters a few times, i noticed a cable was not sticking right on the ignition relais, so i fixed that also whit a new relais, i put in new sparks, it has the new NGK caps, i checked the wiring on the ignition coils, it all seems all right, its running 1200 rpm. at idle, with the diagnos i cant see any failure, could it be the crankcase sensor failing when it runs at higher speed? Also When i am driving on a bad road, it looks worse. Greetings Jos