Drive shaft - separation from the gearbox?

I removed the carc bevel box easy, tapped it all around with rubber mallet till saw a gap, then gently wiggle wiggle it off the splines. To remove shaft from gearbox used a screwdriver to prise it off, circlip is round sitting in a curved recess. Popped off easy checked circlip in place job done.
Upon inspection of front UJ did think one side was a fraction tighter than the other, not smooth and fluid. not binding just not that smooth sloopy action.
Are they servicable or just replace or is it the whole f*cking arm?

UJ crosses are available. Hardy Spicer even make greasable ones with a nipple.

Pete Roper wrote:

UJ crosses are available. Hardy Spicer even make greasable ones with a nipple.

Have seen them with a nipple and channels to each bearing for cars.
Had I not removed the shaft would not have detected.
Still cant decide if needs replacing as could be how a new one would feel on that pair, the other pair is swooshy.
They feel mechanically nice in the hand uni bearings

Like the idea of using chain lube

Whilst I have your attention, since changed the carc oil 400ml seem to be getting a mechanical whizzing sound but only at high speed 80plus is that normal?
Thought would try some "Eni Rotgar" see if that cures it.

While the bevelbox was off did you do the Loctite 290 on the pinion nut threads fix?

Pete Roper wrote:

While the bevelbox was off did you do the Loctite 290 on the pinion nut threads fix?

Never even heard of it?
Any vids/ instructions/threads about it?

Its still off as only started the job Monday afternoon getting it setup and secure/balanced on the stands.
Tuesday/yesterday afternoon spent a few hours dismantling it.
Taking swing arm to Motorcycle place I know has a press to help me get that seized pinion bolt removed today.
If it wont budge will cut the pinion out and drill the stuck bits till they free, though hoping press will sort it.

Plus grab some stainless or high tensile steel replacment bolts for top and bottom of shock if am able/the two pinch bolts on the swing arm.
A replacement bolt from Gutsibits should be arriving today as the head on my seized one is destroyed plus the old one needs binning.
Waiting on my older used Stelvio shock and new 122.81 N/mm -12.5 kg/mm spring should suit a 17stone man.
Expecting that around the 10th latest.

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You should check the member tech archive. My pinion nut must have come loose or maybe just the seal was bad and I had a leak and had to replace the seal. I took Pete’s pictures and instructions to my shop and we ordered the seal ahead of time and got it fixed but asked them to use locktite like Pete suggested. Without bringing the instructions I would have been a little nervous about the job. There is a special pinion nut tool that I didn’t have that you won’t need if yours is tight.

JohnA wrote:

You should check the member tech archive.

Aint no mention of the Loctite 290 on the pinion nut threads fix?
Sure there is a Bevel Box strip but even that dont mention the above

Sorry BB,
Search: Carc / swing arm leak and you’ll see a thread that I started. Maybe some good info in there for you. Best of luck.

Hi Guys,
i´m just about to do this "grease the swingarm bearing" job for the first time and was also wondering why this damn shaft doesn´t slip away easily from the gearbox - good that i found the explanation here (but not in the manual...?!).
Next question which came to my mind when looking at the cardan shaft: does it do the job of any length compensation when the swingarm is moving up and down? Half of the shaft body is thick and the other is thin with something looking like a gasket cap in the middle, but there´s movement in length, so question is am i wrong with this theory or right and it has seize up?
Or is this not needed because the front cardan joint is in one line with the swingarm axle?
Thanks for any comments on this!

Nope. The shaft itself is two parts with some sort of *Rubber* bonding them together to act as a sort of cush drive. All movement occurs at the rear yoke on the pinion splines which is one of the good reasons to lubricate them.

Thanks Pete for this prompt reply!