How to set the camshafts timing after Rollerisation?

I have to make Rollerisation in my GRiSO. I wonder how to set the camshafts timing after replacing KIT C. Is it necessary to remove the front timing gear cover? Can it be done easier?

No need to remove anything at the front apart from the bung so you can turn the crank. Re timing should be easy unless you did both sides at the same time.

Gimme an hour or two and I’ll run you through it but I’m typing on my phone right now.

As I said in the other thread your bike is probably an 'A' kit bike but it conceivably be a 'B' kit one. Check the rocker cover to make sure.

As for the timing? As you don't need to remove the heads it is unlikely that you will loose the timing.

Treat each side as a separate engine. It doesn't matter which side you do first but complete the entire operation on that side before moving to the other.

If you look at my 'Inspection' video you can see that once the piston is at TDC compression you can slip the cam sprocket off the cam keeping tension on the chain and simply cable tie it to the head. This makes it very hard to loose the timing.

While removing the cambox do NOT move the crank. Remove the cambox. Swap the rockers into the new cambox using assembly lube on the bearing surfaces. Insert the hemispherical 'Pads' in the rockers and place the cam timing pin in the 6 O'clock position and make sure the oil feed dowels are in position on the studs. Ensure the new o'ring is in the bottom of the cam box where the short plug tube goes into it and drop the new cambox onto the head and torque it down.

Cut the cable tie holding the sprocket to the head and without moving it in the chain remount it on the end of the camshaft. You may find it makes it easier to turn the crank slightly to line up the sprocket with the pin. This is fine but do not move the sprocket within the chain!

You can then double check the timing by using a probe through the plug hole to ensure the piston is at TDC exactly and then making sure that the locating pin is bisected by an imaginary line drawn between the two breather plate retainer screw holes in the head casting.

If correct reinstall and torque the flinger plate and sprocket retainer bolt, (Use a smear of Loctite 243 on the threads of the bolt.) Tighten the two bolts at the back of the cam tunnel and replace the breather plate.

On the LH side release the camchain tensioner blade and reinstall the screw. On the right replace the big plug that covers the tensioner plunger and it's reservoir. Set the valve clearances to 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust and button it up.

Before starting the motor turn it over through a few complete cycles by hand. If there is no interference put the plugs back in and fire it up!

Pete Roper wrote:

As I said in the other thread your bike is probably an 'A' kit bike but it conceivably be a 'B' kit one. Check the rocker cover to make sure.

As for the timing? As you don't need to remove the heads it is unlikely that you will loose the timing.

Treat each side as a separate engine. It doesn't matter which side you do first but complete the entire operation on that side before moving to the other.

If you look at my 'Inspection' video you can see that once the piston is at TDC compression you can slip the cam sprocket off the cam keeping tension on the chain and simply cable tie it to the head. This makes it very hard to loose the timing.

While removing the cambox do NOT move the crank. Remove the cambox. Swap the rockers into the new cambox using assembly lube on the bearing surfaces. Insert the hemispherical 'Pads' in the rockers and place the cam timing pin in the 6 O'clock position and make sure the oil feed dowels are in position on the studs. Ensure the new o'ring is in the bottom of the cam box where the short plug tube goes into it and drop the new cambox onto the head and torque it down.

Cut the cable tie holding the sprocket to the head and without moving it in the chain remount it on the end of the camshaft. You may find it makes it easier to turn the crank slightly to line up the sprocket with the pin. This is fine but do not move the sprocket within the chain!

You can then double check the timing by using a probe through the plug hole to ensure the piston is at TDC exactly and then making sure that the locating pin is bisected by an imaginary line drawn between the two breather plate retainer screw holes in the head casting.

If correct reinstall and torque the flinger plate and sprocket retainer bolt, (Use a smear of Loctite 243 on the threads of the bolt.) Tighten the two bolts at the back of the cam tunnel and replace the breather plate.

On the LH side release the camchain tensioner blade and reinstall the screw. On the right replace the big plug that covers the tensioner plunger and it's reservoir. Set the valve clearances to 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust and button it up.

Before starting the motor turn it over through a few complete cycles by hand. If there is no interference put the plugs back in and fire it up!

Thank you for your interest Pete. My GRiSO have a long plug tube. But he has no drill mark in the paint on the head.

In which case rather than cable tying the sprocket to the head simply cable tie the chain to the sprocket and once the cambox is off lower it so it sits between the tensioner blade and chain guide when you lift the head off.

When refitting just make sure that the locator pin is bisected by that imaginary line between the two breather plate screw holes.

1. And if something shifts on the lower wheel, what are the options?

2. You unscrew a little screw on the side of the head in the video. What is this item?

I.) you move the upper sprocket in the chain to re-align the peg.

2.) The small screw I removed is in the barrel and is the blanking screw for the hole that you insert the pin through to hold back the tensioner blade after you have forcibly bled down the tensioner plunger. On the right hand cylinder you don't have to do this as the plunger is in the inner wall of the cylinder and simply removing the cover to the reservoir untensions the chain.

Pete Roper wrote:

I.) you move the upper sprocket in the chain to re-align the peg.

And doesn't the crankshaft need to be somehow immobilized?

It weighs about as much as a neutron star! If you tug on the chain so hard that it moves you could double asSamson in the temple!

There's a two to one reduction/torque multiplier. It takes a bit of effort to move the crank! Of course you double/triple check everything when finished but really, it's not going to suddenly spin out of control and leave you baffled! Even if you do all you need to do is re set the piston at TDC on the correct stroke and start again.

Pete Roper wrote:

It weighs about as much as a neutron star! If you tug on the chain so hard that it moves you could double asSamson in the temple!

Thank you