Subject: shock replacement query Sun Jul 10, 2022 1:18 pm
Hi wanted to replace original shock with the one from stelvio:
i got stuck in the middle of putting all together i took out original shock, greased the swingarm bearing and am now failing in putting it all together. to whom who ever did replace the original shock with an stelvio shock: did you also replaced the bellcrank i hope that is real english the piece with 3 holes in it that hold the shock the swingarm and .. thanks !
No, I can switch between Matris/Original/Stelvio shock on mine without changing anything else.....but it looks like you disconnected the CARC box connection to the Torque rod arm - why ?? (because that won't help alignment of suspension bits)
If anything the only 'tricky bit' is to fiddle about with swing arm position so that the dog bone/three-way block bobbin bolts line up with the shock installed.
i remove the carc cause the wheel would not go enough down to allow me to connect the 3 piece/3 way block but now the connection rod feels too short even when i sit on the bike ?!
On mine i had to fully extend the suspension to fit the Stelvio shock. It was right at the lower limit of the suspension movement and it required a bit of jiggling.
Drop the shock absorber in from the left. Then loosely mount it by the top bolt,
Attach the triangle plate with 3 bearings to the shock absorber then the swing arm and torque those bolts up.
Then lastly swing the forked link back to line up with its hole in the triangle plate, use a jack to lift the swing arm until the holes line up. Then torque up that bolt and the shock absorber top bolt
final question: the torque on swingarm, there is the rod with the inner-6th and the funny outer nut, that would require a special nut i coud not find that detail in my manual. can somebody help me ? thanks ?
today is not my day. so now that all is done, i start engine, put in first gear and a super loud gravel noise comes out
when i recap: i have moved the swingarm to check and grease the bearings. did i  fuck up something during mounting ?
now it took me 4,5 hrs to get it all together is there an easier ways to check the cardan ?
like - remove tyre - remove drive train oil - separate swing arm - check kardan - put it all together - done ?
the fact that reactive bridge does not move seems also strange. can i ignore it for now ? if the rod does not move in the box, it would end in super hard chassis or and then i still have this funny noise sometime when i leave the cllutch, where someone said it could come from the carc rod ..
Does the bike move freely when in nuetral? Does if move freely in gear with the clutch pulled in? Did you pull thr bev3l box off? DO NOT ride the bike until you figure out what's wrong
today is not my day. so now that all is done, i start engine, put in first gear and a super loud gravel noise comes out
when i recap: i have moved the swingarm to check and grease the bearings. did i  fuck up something during mounting ?
now it took me 4,5 hrs to get it all together is there an easier ways to check the cardan ?
like - remove tyre - remove drive train oil - separate swing arm - check kardan - put it all together - done ?
the fact that reactive bridge does not move seems also strange. can i ignore it for now ? if the rod does not move in the box, it would end in super hard chassis or and then i still have this funny noise sometime when i leave the cllutch, where someone said it could come from the carc rod ..
If you had to force ANYTHING to line up then something is wrong
Does the bike move freely when in nuetral? Does if move freely in gear with the clutch pulled in?
If it makes any mechanical noise when the rear wheel is rotated or it rolled in neutral or in gear with the clutch pulled in... It needs to come apart again - sorry
What happened: when i moved the swingarm.to grease the bearings, the kardan disconnected within the swingarm. i ofcourse didnt knew, when i put the swinarm in, the cardan was disconncted from the drive and that was the noise. bike would actually not move as kardan rotated freely in the swingarm. what i also learned, you do not need to drain oil when taking the swingarm apart, as there is none in the middle part. after connecting kardan and.putting back together swingarm, the rot in the box would.move freely. Kardan obviously blocked that movement. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
. thanks for.the hints, the stucked rod in bevelbox should have told me. But i never even touched that before, so didi not knew how easy it.should actually move
Look, Pawel, with the greatest of respect did you do any research before you decided to perform this task? Did you look at exploded diagrams of the swingarm and bevelbox? Read the manual, (Although in the case of removing the swingarm it isnt exactly brilliant or helpful!) or even search previous threads here on the Ghetto?
Thing is many people have removed and replaced their swingarms and bevelboxes, greased and replaced bearings and in many cases listed things that they have seen as traps and pitfalls when carrying out the process. Likewise swapping shocks and numerous other mundane service tasks that need to be undertaken from time to time.
As it is you have damaged the seal carrier of the bevelbox and may also, by your attempts to force things that shouldn't need to be forced, of damaged the swingarm itself. I hope not, for your sake, as if the swingarm, a very light alloy casting designed to take stress in a certain way, does fail? Well the back wheel falls off! This is not, as you can image, a good thing if you are riding.
It has been mentioned both here and elsewhere, several times, that removal of the swingarm is best achieved by first removing the bevelbox. The cardan shaft is held onto the gearbox output shaft by a circlip. Unless the cardan is popped off the gearbox output shaft before the swingarm and bevelbox assembly is slid backwards then surely it is obvious that the back yoke of the shaft is going to slip off the splines of the pinion in the bevelbox and having done so will be virtually impossible to realign so that it will slip back on as the assembly is moved forward for re-installation.
I'm sorry but this is to me blindingly obvious. Just as it was similarly blindingly obvious that it was much easier and in fact pretty damn near necessary the first time I pulled the swingarm off my first Moto Guzzi some forty something years ago!
Don't get me wrong. I'm all for people getting familiar with and working on their own machines but please, if you are going to embark on something as critical to safety as buggering about with the suspension and driveline to The rear wheel it really behoves you to do some reading and ask questions before you start.
As for the non working speedo? Did you remove the pick-up from the bevelbox before pulling the swingarm assembly rearwards?
Hi Pete, i did read a german garage manual. There was nothing about taking down bevelbox literally no detail. i did look at the thread here with pics, dont remember saying anything bout the bevelbox. I did download the attched docs, i have to confess i did read only the first third. I have isues with the endlish words for techncal parts. I did look up youtube but janguzzi video does not show a lot and there was nothing else online. that was my preparation.
Drop the shock absorber in from the left. Then loosely mount it by the top bolt,
Attach the triangle plate with 3 bearings to the shock absorber then the swing arm and torque those bolts up.
Then lastly swing the forked link back to line up with its hole in the triangle plate, use a jack to lift the swing arm until the holes line up. Then torque up that bolt and the shock absorber top bolt
This is EXACTLY how I do it...just for the benefit of anyone planning to do this in the future...
Subject: shock replacement query 
Sun Jul 10, 2022 1:18 pm
