Left Handlebar switchgear

The position of the horn and indicator switches really bugs me.
My thumb is not long enough (or does not have enough joints) to reach the indicator easily.

I find this particularly upsetting in negotiating fast traffic

So i want to to change the left switch block to something more traditional with the indicator in the middle and the horn at the bottom.

Has anyone done this?

What switchgear did you use ?

And how the does the trip & "menu" slide switch work?
from the wiring diagrams it looks like
Position 1 on the slide switch is called "Code"& joins Red/Black to brown and Black/white to brown
Position 2 on the slide switch is called "Time" & joins Red/Black to brown only
Position 3 on the slide switch is called "Scroll"&  joins Grey/Yellow to brown only

Sounds like Stelvio switch gear, though I don't think they are interchangeable.

Switching back and forth between bikes often has me honking horns instead of cancelling signals for the first 10 miles or so.

Steak wrote:

Sounds like Stelvio switch gear, though I don't think they are interchangeable.

Switching back and forth between bikes often has me honking horns instead of cancelling signals for the first 10 miles or so.

Has the Stelvio got a 3 position switch for changing the trip display and getting to the dashboard menu?


I am intending to re-wire the switch block so that could be an answer

Here's the user manual
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from here User manuals

Looks like the MODE button gives same three options as GRiSO ones (that I never use anyway !)

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paulbrice wrote:

Looks like the MODE button gives same three options as GRiSO ones (that I never use anyway !)

Thanks Paul
Stelvio Norge definitely seems a better ergonomics switch block.
The wiring looks quite similar apart from- the Stelvio gives you a left right scroll for Trip 1, Trip 2, & Menu whereas the GRiSO has a dedicated switch position. I will spend some time to see if they use the same connections on the dash and then maybe take the plunge

I use the trip a lot - tank range on trip2, current trip on trip1 and if my cross country average drops below 36mph i chose bigger roads......But I am obviously easily distracted (look! its a flower !!)

Very interested in this lcjohnny

I would love to know the workings of the LH switch and possible replacement with a standard set up

I think it's a safety hazard having the horn button somewhere where you have to think to find it, but then I ride in the city a lot so the idiot button sees regular action...

Lazlokovacs wrote:

I think it's a safety hazard having the horn button somewhere where you have to think to find it, but then I ride in the city a lot so the idiot button sees regular action...

Nah... A good boot to the door panel never fails to catch these idiot's attention.

try kicking the door panel after you've been T-boned by a cager on their cell-phone

I replaced the left hand switch with a conventional one. It allows me to run with lights off ( for starting if the battery is low ) running lights on or headlight on and has the turn above the horn. Also a led that shows that I'm running with lights on. I had to trace the wiring to set it up as I wanted but that was no big drama. I extended the original mode and left switch cables and put them out of sight but still there if I needed the functions. Works great for me. I have a Stedi LED headlight and run a dedicated headlight circuit through relays that control the headlight main and dip circuits.

eBay item number:175205296038
Closest match I can find on ebay

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evansnows wrote:

I replaced the left hand switch with a conventional one. It allows me to run with lights off ( for starting if the battery is low ) running lights on or headlight on and has the turn above the horn. Also a led that shows that I'm running with lights on. I had to trace the wiring to set it up as I wanted but that was no big drama. I extended the original mode and left switch cables and put them out of sight but still there if I needed the functions. Works great for me. I have a Stedi LED headlight and run a dedicated headlight circuit through relays that control the headlight main and dip circuits.[/url]

Evans that may be the only way of doing it without risking blowing up the dash.

There appear to be some similarities in how they interract with terminals of the dash display - but of course it is a different display and possibly a different processor so the terminals may not be the same (dash terminal numbers shown in square brackets to avoid repetition);

They both briefly connect [8] to [18] to go to the next item in a cyclical menu (a long connection clears a trip display or enters a sub menu)

But
On the GRiSO the slide control connects both [30] & separately [40] to [18] for Trip 1, only [30] to [18] for trip 2 and nothing to[18] for Menu/Mode (and [30]&[40] are not joined)

As far as i can tell
The Stelvio briefly connects [40] to [18] to go through the all 3 trip choices & sub menus one way and [30] to [18] to go through the trip choices the other way.

Yes I have bypassed a lot of the original wiring with dedicated systems.
I specifically bought a GRiSO because I believe it is one of the best two wheeled examples of Italian style and performance.

As I customized my GRiSO I went about (in my opinion) streamlining and improving the look of the bike.

One of my pet hates is the gender uncertain (am I analog or digital ?) ugly speedo / rev counter.
I've been informed that the bike will run fine with the original unit disconnected. Before I learnt that though I had cut down the seat, made a composite tail tidy, extended the wiring loom and hid the hideous unit in that, keeping it hooked up.
I installed an Acewell unit which is also gender uncertain but is at least symmetric.

Of course much rewiring was necessary and as I wrote where possible bypassing the original.
The headlight wiring is something I do on most bikes. I run a hefty lead from the battery through a circuit breaker to two relays to dip and main beam. I take a positive circuit switched on by the ignition switch run that through the left handlebar switch to control running lights (no relay) and trigger the dip and main beam relays. It is not a particularly difficult modification and if running a H4 halogen bulb is a good idea as the high power current is not running through the small contacts in the switch.

I set this up before installing the LED headlight that does not draw as much power, though I would have probably have gone that way anyway believing in the belt as well as braces approach.

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Lazlokovacs wrote:

try kicking the door panel after you've been T-boned by a cager on their cell-phone

Well in that case, it's definitely more challenging. lol
I actually almost got nailed that way once and it sure wasn't a happy feeling.
Morons with cell phones really are a problem. I witness this shit everyday...