Something was not quite Right up front. Wheel Bearings

In the near couple hundred thousand  km, I've changed our the bearings a few times,  a couple times,  just because,  another time cause the world inspector noted wear,  and this time.  
So I made an amature film of my amature job.
But it's fine and the bike remains awesome

I'm a chump. After watching you tighten those caliper bolts, I thought to myself "nah-ah, you won't catch me NOT using a torque wrench on those", and then promptly stripped a caliper bolt with my torque wrench yesterday (50Nm - wtf?) Went shopping for a helicoil kit today... "this is the way". *sigh*

Svartipants wrote:

I'm a chump. After watching you tighten those caliper bolts, I thought to myself "nah-ah, you won't catch me NOT using a torque wrench on those", and then promptly stripped a caliper bolt with my torque wrench yesterday (50Nm - wtf?) Went shopping for a helicoil kit today... "this is the way". *sigh*

Oh no... bugger, funny, I bought a torque wrench for the work on the timing chain stuff. But I don't use on much else. The calipers just until they "Feel right"
I did use one on the rotor bolts on the front wheel last week when I fitted some to a second front wheel.

Hope the coil goes in alright.

Oh my, how timely. I took the wheels of GRiSO yesterday and spooned on some new rubber. While taking off the front, I was asking myself, "Self, what are the torque specs for those bolts?"

So, I guess I'll tighten everything up the olde farmer way, except the 4 rear bolts. I'll use that fancy clicky wrench on them.

Use a torque wrench. Your life may depend on it.

Torque specs are in the service manual. Obey.

Svartipants wrote:

I'm a chump. After watching you tighten those caliper bolts, I thought to myself "nah-ah, you won't catch me NOT using a torque wrench on those", and then promptly stripped a caliper bolt with my torque wrench yesterday (50Nm - wtf?) Went shopping for a helicoil kit today... "this is the way". *sigh*

It will have only stripped because some previous shaved-ape did not stop at 50Nm and gave it a little bit extra.

I'm with Mark - not hard to use a torque wrench and they are cheaper than castings.

If you want to stay primitive in the spirit of some MG engineering - use an old fashioned bending beam torque wrench -
You can re-calibrate them in 10 seconds (but you may have to lie on the floor to read the scale lol)
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Torque wrench every time (where possible)....especially on Titanium bicycle with carbon seat post & handlebars....it's hard to 'judge' 5nm accurately