Side stand light stays on no matter what I do.

The dash idiot light for the side stand stays lit no matter what I do. I have even put on a new switch, nothing changes. The bike is unridable. Last 10 years the GRiSO sat due to surgeries on my neck, back & shoulders so there is only 10K on the engine. The bike started out having dash failure, replaced the dash, that one was bad, replaced it with another dash off a 8V which everything is identical to my 1100. I painted the frame, tank & the rest of the plastic. When I removed the ECU I noticed green corrosion around several pins, that’s when I noticed a pin was angled, it was loose. Sent it out for repair they wanted over 400.00 US dollars to repair so I found one with matching numbers & bought it from Australia. Bike fires up but no go when put in gear. Yes my GRiSO is a PoS. A real lemon. I contacted dealers one was extremely helpful but only so much. I done some research on the dash of the GRiSO, failures even on bikes sitting on the showroom floor. PIAGGIO/Moto-Guzz North America was absolute no help at all. Now I am faxing the idiot light for the side stand light remaining on. My plans are to let my GRiSO sit or if I can find a buyer for it, then I am going to buy a new Ducati. I already have since new 1993 900ss. This is my second Guzzi my first was 100CX which was bulletproof. I really enjoyed it. Many years later I buy the one I own now my PoS GRiSO.
If anyone has any idea or actual knowledge or know how on the electronics as well as the side stand idiot light staying on, please contact me or if interested in a great project bike, contact me. When my GRiSO was running it ran super strong & rev’ed real quick.

Hmmm, my first thought is the cables to the switch are shortened out somewhere...so, remove cables from switch and look whether the idiot light still is on. Simple things first.

It should be easy enough to figure out which input the switch is connected to and fix it
Corrosion is never a good thing on the computer style connections, try some Craig's Deoxit that should protect against corrosion.

I put a link to both schematics since yours is a hybrid but the stand switch wiring seems the same
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UPDATE - I went and measured my 07 at the connector where the switch plugs in.
The connector is inside a large sleeve strapped to the front engine bolt in behind left header
The blue wire is grounded, mine measured 1 Ohm to chassis
The green wire with brown stripe measured infinity to chassis, this is the one from ECU pin 38
The green wire with brown stripe measured 11 Volts to chassis with the key ON
With the switch unplugged the light was ON
Shorting the two pins together made the light turn OFF

I suspect if you don't find 11 Volts at the green/brown wire with key on the problem will be at the ECU connector.

Hope this is helpful

Kiwi_Roy, thank you for your response. Question for you, how many lead wires does you side stand switch have going into the weather pack? Mine has 2. #38 pin on the blue side of the ecu. I’ll have to check the voltage on the wiring I stead of just doing a continuity test.
I’ll let you know what gives. Many thanks. Doug

2highlander, thank you for your response. I went through the wiring & there is plenty of length, nothing is tight. The light remains on with or without the switch connected.
If you come up with something please contact me.
Thank you. Doug

Did You try to bridge the switch?

dlpannebakker wrote:

2highlander, thank you for your response.  I went through the wiring & there is plenty of length, nothing is tight.  The light remains on with or without the switch connected.  
If you come up with something please contact me.
Thank you. Doug

Yes the light is On with the switch un-plugged
Measure the Voltage on the Green/Brown wire, it is 11 Volts on mine and shorting it to chassis or the Blue wire turns the light OFF

Then connect your Ohmmeter to the switch using a couple of small wires, you should see it go from close to zero to infinity as the switch opens

Stand deployed = Switch Open = Light ON
Stand retracted = Switch Closed = Light OFF

UPDATE
Just two wires.

Kiwi_Roy, I will run the test & let you know what happens. Many thank’s sir.
Doug

Kiwi_Roy. The wires leading to the switch on the side stand are brown or black. The wires at the pig tail connection are green or blue. I wish these companies would keep the same wire color codes until model years are ended but they never do. I have noticed that US automobile industry switch’s color codes all the time too. Oh well, I guess crap happens.
Thank you again.

Kiwi_Roy. I performed a volt check on the wire for the side stand coming from the dash. The voltage was 0000. Any clue?
I appreciate your help.
Doug

2highlander, yes sir I had tried that as well. I took a voltage reading it the meter showed all goose eggs.
I appreciate you help. Other advice is always welcome.
Doug

So, if your bike is running with the clutch pulled in and you put the bike in gear, does this stop the motor or not?

If not, either the sidestand switch is rooted, or you have an issue with the wiring.

Bike runs pull the clutch Tao I to gear engine shuts down. This PoS has been a electrical nightmare right after 10k miles, well actually from the beginning. The shop had to do something to the ignition switch before I picked it up.

Its the sidestand switch have you replaced it or shunted around it or simply disconnected it? Either shunting around it or disconnecting it should fix it depending if the switch is normally open or normally closed. Without looking I don't know.

If disconnecting it works I'd really strongly suggest replacing it as I know of a bloke who was killed in the UK because he'd disconnected the switch. GRiSO side stand won't flick up, it digs in and will throw you off. In his case under an oncoming bus.

dlpannebakker wrote:

Kiwi_Roy.  I performed a volt check on the wire for the side stand coming from the dash.  The voltage was 0000.   Any clue?  
I appreciate your help.
Doug

I'm guessing some corrosion at the dash connection, the 11 Volts originates at the dash, should be on the green/brown wire.
Take your multimeter on Ohms and see if that wire is shorted to chassis, it should be open.

Kiwi_Roy.
Nothing has happened to the meter reading.
Question, in the beginning when I first purchased this thing & prior to taking possession of it, the dealer had to do something with the ignition wiring. So, I am wondering could a wire be loose at the ignition switch?

No.


It's not rocket science. The switch is closed when the stand is up, and open when down. If you're getting goose eggs across the switch at all times, then it's likely shorted to ground or permanently closed. Pull the ECU and check across the connector from pin 38 to ground. If it reads anything other than open with the stand down, you have a short in the loom. If not, your ECU is suspect.

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I will check it in the morning. I’ll let you know. I appreciate the diagram.
Many thanks.
Doug

Hey Beetle, Ohm check shown 0.77.

Beetle & Kiwi_Roy;
Granted I don’t use my meter that much & I certainly am not a modern day tech on all this new electronic stuff.
I have an extra ecu that came on the bike & I plugged it in in replacement
of the one I bought from NSW Australia. I have a new switch plunger style as in the newer models. I pushed in the plunger & the light went out, so I bought a bad ecu. Oh well shit happens, pardon the expression. So now my choices will be to have the one I bought from NSW or have the OE one revamped. The OE unit has some corrosion around several pins & I thought it was bad, in fact I had sent it out to CARMO USA. They were in touch with CARMO of the Netherlands & I still have the messages they sent to each other. Netherlands tells USA to tell me that this ECU is bad & needs rebuilt & flashed. So, now since I can’t trust either CARMO group, who would you recommend rebuilding one of them flashing it, or should I just have them rebuild it & flash it myself witH GuzziDiag program?

It sounds like you can just use your original ECU, since the light goes out and the bike presumably now runs with the stand up and the transmission in gear. (Right?)

You should spray DeoxIT D5 electronic cleaner on the connectors at the ECU, carefully following the simple instructions on the can. Link to Amazon page for the cleaner: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Though the dash is subject to failure from condensation while the bike sits unused, your problem is not in the dash, but in the ECU or its connections. The ECU's printed circuit board has a conformal coating applied to its components, unlike the dash's, and is therefore unlikely to suffer corrosion damage while the bike sits. So I doubt your original ECU is defective. You probably just have corrosion in the connector(s).

If you do subsequently develop more problems with the dash (not the ECU), it can be removed and taken to a phone repair shop for disassembly, cleaning and coating. It is a large-component PCB by phone standards, built from commonly used parts.

Moto

Have you considered shorting out the Neutral switch as well, that should take care of the cutting out.

I'd still be surprised if it's the ECU itself.

Moto
I have first hand knowledge with the junk Digiatek dash’s PIAGGIO uses & possibly others. All these dash’s should have been recalled. At first they cost $777.00 US now they are above $1400.00 US dollars. PIAGGIO really knows how to get away with murder.
Your saying a company that is capable of repairing telephones are able to repair the dash? Honestly I wouldn’t know who here in the states that repair phones. How about a regular electronics repair shop? I don’t mean to sound doubting but how would they know what to do if they have no knowledge of the product? If your here in the US who would you suggest or doesn’t it really matter?
I tried to get Digitek to repair my OE but they ignored the request. PIAGGIO needs to go to Japan & use their bullet proof electronics. Ducati learned a lesson except for with their high dollar machines using Bosch & not I believe Mitsubishi electrical components. I apologize for being a downer but I am seriously burnt out with my GRiSO & it really saddens me to be a disgruntled with my Guzzi. My third one & my worse one but one of my coolest one. T-3 & CX100 which I really modifiés & it ran extremely well.

To all that chimed in with advice I appreciate all of it.

dlpannebakker wrote:

Hey Beetle, Ohm check shown 0.77.

Across the connector plug, right?


Can you post a pic of the corrosion?

dlpannebakker wrote:

Moto
I have first hand knowledge with the junk Digiatek dash’s PIAGGIO uses & possibly others.  All these dash’s should have been recalled.  At first they cost $777.00 US now they are above $1400.00 US dollars.  PIAGGIO really knows how to get away with murder.  
 Your saying a company that is capable of repairing telephones are able to repair the dash?  Honestly I wouldn’t know who here in the states that repair phones.  How about a regular electronics repair shop?   I don’t mean to sound doubting but how would they know what to do if they have no knowledge of the product?  If your here in the US who would you suggest or doesn’t it really matter?
 I tried to get Digitek to repair my OE but they ignored the request.   PIAGGIO needs to go to Japan & use their bullet proof electronics.   Ducati learned a lesson except for with their high dollar machines using Bosch & not I believe Mitsubishi electrical components.  I apologize for being a downer but I am seriously burnt out with my GRiSO & it really saddens me to be a disgruntled with my Guzzi.  My third one & my worse one but one of my coolest one. T-3 & CX100 which I really modifiés & it ran extremely well.  

I have lots of first-hand experience. I disassembled my own dash, applied a conformal coating to its printed circuit board, and also designed and installed a desiccating breather for it.  Somewhere on wildguzzi is my long dissertation about all this.

Ah, here it is: GRiSO Dash Threadfest

As for phone repair shops. There are plenty of phone repair shops in every town as far as I know. But it turns out that only some can do "micro-soldering" (as I think it is called), including one near me. The owner says most towns have such a place that will be known to the other shops, since they would be sending it business. After applying my own conformal coating (see the link above for that) I took my dash's PCB to him to ask if he could have done it for me instead. He said, sure, he would disassemble the PCB from the dash, coat it, and reassemble it, all for $25. Remarking on the garden-variety components he identified on the board, he said it would not be difficult for him to make most repairs on it either.

So, there you have my experience. Good luck.

By the way, my dash is doing fine.

Moto

P.S. Visiting the link, I see Photobucket is now blurring my photos in the hope I'll ransom them. I think the posts are still understandable nonetheless. I do have the original photos somewhere on my computer if there were ever a need to post them somewhere else.