Trailtech temperature meter any one fitted one ?

I'm looking at ways to monitor the oil temperature.
I like the look of these, they're flush mount so not too "in your face"
and they work off a fin mounted sensor so no breaking into the oil lines required.
Anyone fitted one ?

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Easy to read LCD display and an ultra-thin design.
The LCD display lets you to easily view all gauge readings regardless of the angle or lighting conditions.
Panel mount for easy install in a dash or instrument panel
Customizable warnings and maintenance reminders with flash alert service alarms
Functions on key switch for external power if internal battery dies
-40°-300°C/575°F

No, not seen before Evans. Some here use a dipstick mounted gauge, they will probably chime in eventually.

I had one for a while. The fin or cylinder head temperature isn't equivalent to the oil temperature. The front and rear fin temperature can be quite different as well, so be mindful of where you install the sensor. I used the CHT sensor attached to the M6 screw on the tank of the right cylinder head.


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]



I now use a Koso gauge with an oil sensor in the cooler line, but that was quite easy after I installed the thermostat.

Do you have a picture of where you installed the screw in sensor.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Temperature Sensor: 1 8th x 28 BSPP Probe Sensor, 900mm Long


I was aware that it was an option but not that there was somewhere I could use it
without drilling and tapping into an oilway.  Thanks  Evans

Not the screw in sensor. This one.


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Thanks for that.

As I'm digging further into these I've found that they have screw in sensors with metric threads
and adaptors to screw them into the sump drain plug.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


Since the GRiSO drain plug is horizontal and at the back of the sump this is a possibility.
Having the sensor in the oil in the sump would be good.

That’s a sensible location.

I have the dipstick temp gauge. Can’t read it when riding (obviously) unless you’re some bizarre contortionist with a death wish, but at standstill you can read it if you lean down far enough. I’ve found it really doesn’t vary a massive amount once the bike is warmed up. City riding or spirited sprints through the hills will have it around 120 degrees Celsius. Have had it around 130C a few times. Highway cruising in cooler conditions will drop it a bit to around 100C. That said, I rarely ride in wet and cold conditions voluntarily at least, so I’d imagine winter riding would affect those figures a bit.

Personally, I wouldn’t go to great lengths to fashion a temp monitoring feature, as it’s really a bit academic. You’ll be mesmerised by it for the first half an hour, and probably crash into the back of a truck because you weren’t watching the road. After that, you’ll quickly get an accurate idea of where the temp tends to settle for most conditions, and then you’ll never look at it again. Bit like an oil pressure gauge in a car. Engine goes bang first, then people look at the gauge wondering why it’s reading zero. Never the other way around!

Pete has suggested that a baffle is one way to regulate the temperature.

Looking at the bike an adjustable baffle on the intake side, that works in the same way as a venetian blind seems to be the way to go to be able to open it fully when no restriction is needed.

As you write, normally you wouldn't look at the gauge but riding in the wet in Winter you could see if it was getting too cool and use the baffle to control the oil temperature.

We've got another 4 months of good riding weather here. I'm just doing homework for tasks I'll tackle
during the Winter.

Guzzi-diag shows an engine temperature.. where is that read from? .... and can it be displayed?

Engine temperature sensor is on the right cylinder, under the tank. It’s not very accurate, as it suffers from air cooling as well.

In its use, it's not really a temperature sensor per se. What it tells the ECU is that the head is sufficiently hot enough to forego the warm up processes i.e. the engine is up to temperature, no more "choke" or manipulations due to being cold. After that, the ECU doesn't care.

The actual mounting of this sensor is pretty ordinary anyway, with the sensor screwed into the head but not contacting it properly. So the temperature is an "about" reading, not at all meant to be accurate.

Thanks guys -It was just a thought

I’ve also got one of those MG Cycle adjustable oil cooler covers. The standard plastic cover had warped terribly, and I was attracted by the idea of the sliding vent arrangement wherein the theory is that it can be opened and closed depending on conditions. Does it work? Err, umm, I’m not entirely sure.

The problem, in my mind, with the adjustable cover is that the venting adjusters are on the exit side of the cooler (the bit you see from the side). There’s nothing stopping the air ram effect from the front. Also, even with the vents fully closed, the moulding of the cover means that it isn’t flush with the oil cooler itself, so air can pass through in between the cover and the cooler fins. I think this was done on purpose, as if it allowed airflow to be cut entirely, it would be a certainty that folks would shut the vents, forget about it, and ride off into the backblocks of Arizona or wherever then cry about why their engine is a melted puddle of liquid metal on the ground.

To the above point, I would be very careful indeed in fashioning anything that can cut off the air supply to the cooler entirely, unless you live in the Arctic circle. The Guzzi V-twin is a big engine, with no water cooling to fall back on. If you block the cooler and neglect to monitor it very closely indeed, one hot day stuck in peak hour traffic and that expensive synthetic oil will smell like the local fish & chip shop deep fryer. Just be careful, that’s all I’m saying.

Tony, the ECU never ignores the ETS. There is, within the plethora of correction table’s infesting the map, the “Fuel-Engine-Temperature” correction table. It plays a rather important role in fuel control. You may have espied it while perusing the innards of your map.



The best and proper solution to the 8V cooling dilemma, is a thermostatically controlled oil feed to the cooler.

Mark, I might be wrong, but isn't that temperature the air temperature as sits on the airbox? Yes I have looked at this map often.

My understanding is that when the warmup is done (and the engine - aka the R/H head in my case), it reverts to the air temperature for the Fuel-Engine-Temperature mapping corrections. But then again, I was wrong once - ever since I was born - at least it's only once in my life!

No, the intake air temperature (sensor) is used by the Pressure-Air-Temperature correction table. The Fuel-Engine-Temperature correction table uses the ETS, as does the Warmup table.

Learn something new every day. Thanks Mark.

There is no question in my mind that Marks solution of fitting a thermostatically controlled oil feed
is the best solution. Unfortunately it's not cheap and requires an amount of modification to achieve.

A dash mounted oil temperature gauge and adjustable vent in the intake side of the oil cooler seems to me the next best option.
As mentioned above you would need to keep your eye on it when you were restricting the flow.
By using adjustable vanes working the same way as venetian blinds when fully
open there would be no more restriction than with the standard version

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I considered a similar system with a thermostatically controlled motor. I decided after several months of brain-wracking and fiddling with vents that the thermostat in the cooler lines, while more expensive, was simpler to implement and could be tastefully hidden.

The oil cooler is so efficient that I've witnessed a 10 degree drop in engine temperature within a minute of removing the thing blocking the vent. In my case, it was typically a piece of cardboard.

Yes I'm coming round to the realization that the thermostat in the cooler lines is the way I'll go.

Being a 70 year old, old fart it takes a while for me to get my head around a problem.

If I didn't have the funds I'd look at the trailtech temperature meter with the screw in sensor in a modified sump plug. I'd make a venetian blind style vent on the inlet side but with some vanes fixed so that the air flow was never completely cut off.

What has tipped the balance for me is the realization that I won't need the temperature gauge with the thermostatically controlled unit. Since it is automatically controlled I don't need to monitor it.

Many thanks to Mark for working out the thermostatically controlled solution in the first place.

My thermostat solution was so expensive because I kept changing stuff as I went along. It was a bit haphazard. However, depending on which particular thermostat you choose, it's still going to cost in the range of $500, I reckon.

Mark -
was there a post where you described the engineering required for the bypass thermostat?