I’m ready to map

Hey everyone!  

I’m jc and have clocked over 12k miles on the lovely GRiSO I’ve named Persephone. She’s stock and wonderful. I’m ready to map or tune and I need help because I don’t know where to start or what to do. Help?

Story time: I live in Portland Oregon metro area and was at a general dealership waiting for service on a Yamaha V Star I owned. Her name was Raven. I decided I would add a dual sport bike to my garage and picked out a Kawasaki something or other. Raven wasn’t going to be a trade in due to her age and the sales person showed me the used bike section. He said “here’s a MotoGuzzi”. I turned, looked, touched the right grip and told him I wanted it. What an amazing journey since!  

Issues: neutral is near impossible to achieve.

Anyway, I’ve been lurking here for a few years and now decided to say hi and post some photos too.

I’m ready to map and make some modifications. Please help

jc

What year and is it a roller motor? No point in doing anything until it's done if it isn't. If it is then you'll need to delve into Mark's Guzzidiag thread which contains instructions and links to both cable suppliers and download links for the software itself. Don't forget to donate to the Guzzidiag design team.

The bike also has to be correctly tuned so read up on that. You will need a manometer to balance the throttlebodies.

After that mapping, covered by Mark, is simple and easy.

Pete Roper wrote:

What year and is it a roller motor?

I think the sump gives that away Pete just saying  

I would hazard 2015 -2016, could be registred later though not in the UK/EU as would not pass Euro 4 regs.
Top ends too noisy or some other bollocks only you being a tree hugger would know about.  

Jc wrote:

Hey everyone!  

Issues: neutral is near impossible to achieve.

jc

Pivot pin the gear lever mounts to is rarely greased, (its a serviceable item) if dry/neglected it will wear.
Brake side has same pin and receives same neglect, spring makes that side not feel sloppy.
Mine was well sloppy, replace the pin £8 and greased, this removed most of the slop, greasing alone is better than nothing.
Ball joints on shifter rod could do with a grease too.
Of possible interest if you want to take things further.
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Ensure clutch adjustment pin is fully engaging the clutch piston at the master cylinder.
People tend to fit after market levers and have the reach too short so engagment is less than ideal.
Adjust the pin to compensate for reduced lever travel.

Approaching long wait 3 way lights its easy enough to shift to neutral if feel the need, parking up at a meet and being in the wrong gear (too high) definitely caught me plenty of times, still does.
Kill switch it and do it silently  

I've only owned mine 6 months, 3-4 of those were spent winter servicing.
There's probably a knack to it

I tend not to look to closely at pictures of bikes. You're right. It's a post 15.

Difficulty selecting neutral may be related to clutch lever plunger adjustment, especially if you run the lever close to the bar.

Wow! So many replies and good information! She’s 2017, or says my registration. So I think the rollers motor is okay.

Next I see I will be finding mark’s diag thread, buy some HW, download SW, donate $$. And make sure I have manometer.

Lots of information about my non existent nuetral. Next opportunity I have I will delve into your suggestions Bill and Pete. And yes, I too end up kill switching it off. Sometimes at long red lights. The clutch lever is “heavy”. Is there no hydraulic assist? It’s always been a bear.

Thank you! Thank you! For all your assistance already!

Jc wrote:

Wow!  So many replies and good information!  She’s 2017, or says my registration. So I think the rollers motor is okay.

Next I see I will be finding mark’s diag thread, buy some HW, download SW, donate $$.  And make sure I have manometer.

Lots of information about my non existent nuetral.  Next opportunity I have I will delve into your suggestions Bill and Pete. And yes, I too end up kill switching it off. Sometimes at long red lights. The clutch lever is “heavy”. Is there no hydraulic assist?  It’s always been a bear.

Thank you! Thank you! For all your assistance already!

Last assembled 2016 no more after that as failed EU legislation.
Morgan Carbtune Two is the best choice for a Twin Manometer.
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Clutch lever is not heavy your just weak handed, too used to squishy jap clutches that are wet multiplate.....me too you get used to it.
This one is dry single plate, like that of a car, sits in the bell housing forward of the gearbox bit with a rubber bung.
Lcjohnny fitted an "Oberon Slave Cylinder" he reckoned reduced lever effort by about 20%.

Slave Cylinder
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You can just try bleeding the the clutch master cylinder moreso if the fluid is black, drain and bleed is under seat, clipped up to the left.
Its that braided hose pictured.
Treat like a brake caliper, unclip and run braided hose down low.
A combination of adjusted clutch pin and decent lever travel, combined with a proper bled clutch will slightly reduce effort needed by your hand.
DO NOT OVERFILL CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER too much fluid will cause it to seep out from under the cap. Keep below bellows.

Clutch Pin
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Held in place by a teen tiny allen bolt, unlock it and adjust pin to engage piston as soon as apply pressure, is free play in its early movement.
This will allow you to reduce lever reach and maintain sufficient clutch pull.

I let mine out a tad at lights as brings tickover down.

Wow! You all are amazing! I am shocked at how quickly and thorough y’all are! Thank you for the direction. I’m a little nervous to mess things up.

I’ve kept everything stock except the mirrors and even that required encouragement from others.

Anyway, I’ve found all the parts I need to proceed. Let’s gooooo!

jc