Throttle Body Removal

Am quite certain previous owners ran with too much oil in the sump.
Amazed the bike even ran at all.
Certainly worth doing this on a bike purchased from people not on the ghetto when considering a throttle balance map and TPS reset.
Otherwise let the chaos begin and it did  
Some said their inlets were barely dirty, mine were f*cking filthy, the left one that gets adjusted was the worst.

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Takes 3 or 4 leisurely hours to strip clean and refit, piece of piss, thoroughly enjoyed it bar the UK heatwave.

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Cleaned plastic stepper motor too!
Fitted a new air filter while at it.
Bike started up first time, needs setting up again, maybe tomorrow

What do you clean it with?

Andrewpatrol wrote:

What do you clean it with?

This Stuff or one of a variety of products.

If you need to ask the simplest of questions should you really be removing them to start with

Buellbloke wrote:

Andrewpatrol wrote:

What do you clean it with?

This Stuff or one of a variety of products.

If you need to ask the simplest of questions should you really be removing them to start with

Isn’t it better to ask dumb questions rather than not and fuck something up? Thanks for your testy reply all the same.

Andrewpatrol wrote:

Buellbloke wrote:

Andrewpatrol wrote:

What do you clean it with?

This Stuff or one of a variety of products.

If you need to ask the simplest of questions should you really be removing them to start with

Isn’t it better to ask dumb questions rather than not and fuck something up? Thanks for your testy reply all the same.

Nothing testy about it, concern more than anything else.
Carb cleaners and the like have been around for decades you could even use fuel and a brush.
The throttle bodies are easier to remove if remove the airbox first.
On the left side just forward of the left side plate is a tiny chrome acorn nut.
If you undo it and slide out the support piece it will help make removal easier.
You could try warming the airbox manifolds too as they will be stiff and not want pull free.
Dont bother trying to squirt through the airbox leaving everything in place.
A. you will miss a ton of shit if there is any.
B the ton of shit will still be in there.

Enjoy

Thanks BB good to know you can be helpful. I was concerned originally because carb cleaners might not be good in EFI systems cos they’re electrical . I’ll give it a go

Hi, my GRiSO 1100 has 50.000km on the clock now, and I never cleaned those Throotle Bodies...They might well look like the ones from this thread...
I cleanned the airbox last year and I am carefull with the oil level, so I would like to disassemble as less as possible...
Do you guys know if it is possible to remove the TBs without having to remove the airbox?

Yes it's doable w/out taking off airbox BUT you do have to get very rough with the rubber inlets between airbox and TBs ....here's my write up in case it helps

 Remove TBs and clean by PB

Ignore the mapping crap as it was before Beetle map & during daliance with lambda fooler !

Thanks Paul.
I see it is necessary to remove the tank.
I tried already a couple of times, and was never able to disconnect the fuel line....I think I will have to buy one of those special pliers....

If you’re looking for someone to say “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” I’ll be that guy. I have about 46,000km and haven’t over filled my oil and have mostly used non ethanol. I guess I’d mess with mine if there was and issue like Paul had, otherwise I wouldn’t. You can peek in at them and it least see if they look ugly before doing something.

You are right John, and I certainly prefer spend my free time riding it than fixing it ...
But the fuelling seems to be a little off lately. I tried different versions of Beetle's map, but still couldn't have it on the spot.
I took out the air bleed screws, and the tip of one of them (the open one) was pitch black...I guess the accumulation of those carbon residuals on the TB walls, butterfly valve, channels,...can for sure mess up that gas flow a bit...
But I will take your suggestion. I will try to move the airbox connection rubber tubes a take a peek inside

If you want to 'peak at them' it's easier to just use smartphone/mirror through the airbox door....removing the rubbers is nightmare !!

when we're talking about overfilling the oil we're talking about putting in the amount that the factory specifies right?

Just wondering as my bikes been fueling a bit weird recently too.

i wouldn`t bother with the special pliers if i were you. i struggled with it, ordered the pliers, struggled with the pliers and searched on here and followed the directions from a post on here and it came off easily without pliers. once you`ve done it it gets easier but there is a knack to it. and you don`t have to have a vice like grip but once you`ve pulled the ring back you do have to push the spigot out, it doesn`t fly out under spring pressure as i was expecting

I followed the instructions too James, until I got sore fingers...The thing just wouldn't come out....

'They say' it helps to release fuel pressure in the line first....think you have to disconnect the fuel pump electrical supply & press starter for a second or two to do that.

Lazlokovacs wrote:

when we're talking about overfilling the oil we're talking about putting in the amount that the factory specifies right?

Just wondering as my bikes been fueling a bit weird recently too.

You shouldn't go above 1/3 bettween the min and max marks on the dipstick, Lazlo

Found this from Brian on Guzzi riders forum....

First of all disconnect the 4 way connector to the pump/gauge assembly. Then try to start the engine. This will reduce the fuel pressure in the pipe. Raise the back of the tank up a little and maybe put a block of wood under it to support it. (Fuel tank removal is always easier with an almost empty tank). Then use a 12mm open ended spanner and place it between the grey collar and the red elbow. Push the pipe towards the spanner then slowly push the spanner with the pipe slowly away from the elbow.
Slowly is the word, as there is a sealing O ring in the connector which is quite tight. If you get it right the pipe will just pop off the elbow.
Replacing, just push the pipe on to the elbow until it clicks

paulbrice wrote:

'They say' it helps to release fuel pressure in the line first....think you have to disconnect the fuel pump electrical supply & press starter for a second or two to do that.  

Tried that too Paul....

Thanks Paul, I will try Brian's technic next time

I also think it's easier after you've done it once (said Actress to the Bishop...). Mine was defo really hard first time, but I sprayed it with WD40 & subsequent removals have been relatively painless & it still runs fine with a kink in the fuel line....

Removing the airbox isn't really particularly difficult. When everything goes back together don't forget to reconnect and plug the two airbox drains. By now, (The youngest Grisos will be seven years old now!) the drain hoses will most likely be perished so it's a good time to replace them when the airbox is out.

Make sure the vent hose from the condensor box and the stepper hose are reconnected as well.

I did the airbox a year ago Pete. Yes, the drains had perished. I installed some silicone drain hoses that I am very happy with...flexible, easy to router and heat resistente.
I should have taken the opportunity to check the TBs that time............

paulbrice wrote:

Found this from Brian on Guzzi riders forum....

First of all disconnect the 4 way connector to the pump/gauge assembly. Then try to start the engine. This will reduce the fuel pressure in the pipe. Raise the back of the tank up a little and maybe put a block of wood under it to support it. (Fuel tank removal is always easier with an almost empty tank). Then use a 12mm open ended spanner and place it between the grey collar and the red elbow. Push the pipe towards the spanner then slowly push the spanner with the pipe slowly away from the elbow.
Slowly is the word, as there is a sealing O ring in the connector which is quite tight. If you get it right the pipe will just pop off the elbow.
Replacing, just push the pipe on to the elbow until it clicks

I'm going to give it a go Paul. If it doesn't work, I will try to disassemble both injectors and pull everything (tank+fuel lines+injectors) out (I think someone did that also because he was not being able to dusconnect that "quick" release. With the tank out and better access I can try again.

That's right Matias, I think it was Pete who suggested you can also pull the injectors and lines together to avoid kinking fuel line & avoid the 'not-release' connector