Another oncoming tappet failure?

Vince? You could, or you could spend the money you'll loose in the changeover rollerising your 8V and be sitting pretty.

Pete

Pete,if you were down the road from me rather than on the other side of the planet that's what I'd do. I don't have faith in the MG dealers here to do it right!

If anyone on here knows of a dealer in my bit of UK (I'm in Cheshire) who you'd trust to do a job like that, please let me know!

What about Twiggers? They seem to have a reasonable rep. They're not so far away.

Really though it's not a huge job.

Pete

Thanks for that Pete. They are not far away at all. Any UK members on here who can vouch for them?

What year is your bike. If it's a post mid 2010 model it'll just need an A or B kit which are a doddle to do. If you have a garage and a good tool kit it's a couple of hours work.

Pete

2009 bike, Pete. Bit more work?

2009=A5=C kit.

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(Sigh!) Yes, if you feel OK about selling a problem on to someone else. Personally I'd bite the bullet, buy a 'C' kit and install it. Oh! Yes! That's what I did. I still fucked my engine but that was my fault but I think selling something because you think it might fail and therefore you can turn it into someone else's problem is a cunt's act. If you feel OK with that? Go fer yer life!

Pete

Don't sell it, stick the C kit on!!!!

Vince C wrote:

Maybe I'll sell it while it's OK and get an 1100!

Don't be talking out of your ass Son!
You'll like your 09 even more after the rollerisation.
I have both and while the 1100 is awesome regardless, the 1200 is just the cherry on the cake.
Don't be scared on the task at hand, you'll have plenty of support from the Folks here... we cool dat way, yo!.

Pete - I must emphasise there is no problem with the bike. It's running great.

If you look here there is some more info rollers
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You could always trade it for a 2015 if the dealer wouldn't rob you more than the amount of monies involved to rollerise...

Vince C wrote:

Pete - I must emphasise there is no problem with the bike. It's running great, and me selling it is no different to the guy who sold it to me selling it on when he did. Or the dealer selling it to him. It's done 2.5K miles, only goes on on long rides on nice days in the summer, and might do 35K before it has a cam problem by which time I'll be pushing up daisies - or it may never have a cam problem!

I'll investigate fitting a C kit, but not because if I didn't I'd be a cunt, but because it's something I might like to do for my own peace of mind!

Really? He and/or the shop may not of been aware of the issue, you are. Look, if you're OK with flick-passing it and making it someone else's headache? That's fine. It's just not something I could do with a clear conscience. That's all.

Pete

Update. Just rollerized :-) My GRiSO is back from the dealer today. Guzzi give me a free roller upgrade. Good work of Czech dealership, Thanks to him.
Bike is 2008 and I'm second owner, first owner was in Italy. Because of weather here (winter started), I was not able to try it on the road, but it sounds good. Its different from the flat one. Now I have to check valves and then the new Beetle's map for the factory roller. And for sure I want to clean the sump.

Good news Petr!

Good boy...and by the same token, you now have a motorcycle that will be a classic in less than 10 years since the GRiSO is discontinued.

Pete Roper wrote:

What year is your bike. If it's a post mid 2010 model it'll just need an A or B kit which are a doddle to do. If you have a garage and a good tool kit it's a couple of hours work.

Pete

I've held my breath and semi-ignored this topic as is it generally warm and dry in California, plus I don't do short rides so the bike always gets fully warmed up.  However, I'm  still considering doing the roller conversion just in case., especially if I only need the smaller kits.  Mine is a 2010 8V (purchased in May 2011), VIN# ZGULSU009AM112351.  Is there a reference listing of VIN # sequences anywhere that I could use to confirm whether only the A or B kit is needed?

Also, if I do this, I guess it's all on my dime if the warranty has expired without an actual failure?

You can't unfortunately trust the Vin# lists. Best way to be sure is check the inside of the heads, by inside I mean the side of the head facing into the valley of the motor.

if there is an obvious drill spot in the paint it'll need just a 'B' kit. If the paint is unblemished it will need the full 'C' kit.

As long as you have a full service history the factory will supply you a kit even if you are out of warranty but you'll have to pay for the install. To get this though you'll have to take your bike to a dealer so they can strip inspect and photograph the damage. The factory also requires pics of the head to show whether the dot in the paint is there and the inside of the rocker cover to see whether the cover is a 'Floating' or 'Non Floating' type and pics of the service records.

pete

For 2010 8V, you'll need either kit B or C. If you have the drill mark on the heads thusly:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Otherwise, kit C.

Pete Roper wrote:

You can't unfortunately trust the Vin# lists. Best way to be sure is check the inside of the heads, by inside I mean the side of the head facing into the valley of the motor.

if there is an obvious drill spot in the paint it'll need just a 'B' kit. If the paint is unblemished it will need the full 'C' kit.

As long as you have a full service history the factory will supply you a kit even if you are out of warranty but you'll have to pay for the install. To get this though you'll have to take your bike to a dealer so they can strip inspect and photograph the damage. The factory also requires pics of the head to show whether the dot in the paint is there and the inside of the rocker cover  to see whether the cover is a 'Floating' or 'Non Floating' type and pics of the service records.

pete

Thanks, Pete.  I'll go talk to my local shop (a Vespa dealer!) and see if they'll support requesting the kit before I actually have a failure. That would seem to be more cost effective for all concerned if a full flushing, etc. can be avoided by not waiting.  On second thought, I guess the factory may not care about that since the labor is my cost.  

Thanks again.

beetle wrote:

For 2010 8V, you'll need either kit B or C. If you have the drill mark on the heads thusly:

Otherwise, kit C.

Thank you, Beetle. Looks like it's kit C for me - bummer.

The factory will under no circumstances offer a 'Pre-emptive' replacement. This is why I'm strongly recommending people suck up the out of pocket expense to have their tappets inspected. It's no skin off my nose if people don't and believe me I'm never going to be farting through silk on the profits of pulling cam boxes! Look, pulling the left box takes me about an hour and a half max. Chances are damage will be evident and a claim can be put in IF you have a FSH. At least then you'll know and to me that is a lot more important to be aware of so if damage is apparent you can cease riding forthwith and avoid the risk of cumulative damage.

Pete

My advice,
Just replace the fuckers.
Don't wait or look into a crystal ball.
Preventive maintenance is much cheaper than my position right now.