Well crap.

Took it to guzzi's torque specs instead of just snugging by hand.

Never done this before but I learned a lesson the hard way.
Learned a lesson the hard way

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Did you get the thread out of the head?


Note to others: spark plugs don't need to be torqued up.

Sorry to hear that and hope all turns out well in the end. Thanks for sharing so I don't do the same thing. I've learned a lot in the ghetto.

Yeah don't get me wrong it was completely my fault for not snugging it like I've done many of times before.

But why the hell would they recommend 22 ft lbs (30 min) of torque for the plugs

And why the heck was I dumb enough to not even question that. It's the simple stuff that kills me sometimes

But on a plus note, (I took it out to check my valves) and my clearance was spot on

Some of the torque values in the service manual are suspect. I always evaluate a torque setting to make sure it fits what your torquing. I have found the ones for things like suspension, brakes, engine-to-frame and wheels to be as expected. 15Nm for a oil filter? Nope. 38Nm for the lambda probe? Yikes!

Screw 'em in until you feel them seat, then nip them down until you feel the crush washer has crushed, no further.

Pete

If the spark plug 'pressing' gave way before the cylinder head threads you could be the right side of a close shave. Looking at my PMR8Bs and your 'core' I'm guessing you now have a threaded cylinder in your plug hole (pardon the pun), and could be the remaining torque isn't that high without the core pressed in. Easy to say from here; but I would guess a 'hammer in' or 'opposite threaded' remover tool would easily fit in the existing hole (no need to drill and push swarf into the head and you could 'just' unscrew it out and put in a new plug with no damage done. Usually the head threads strip and need complicated (head off) rebuild and rethread or drill out and new insert.

Hope it really is just a screw it off job....