Fork Clamps for Add-On Lights?

Yes, I know.  Many of you just roll your eyes when you see yet another post from me on this general issue of installing conspicuity lights, e.g. ...

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But, at least, I am not doing the electrical work, and only venturing into the mounting.  

Anyway, after appropriate apologies for revisiting the issue, here I go again.

So, I did find some impressive (and inexpensive) LED lights for my EV, and have bought same for the GRiSO to replace the POS little ones I had installed on the hand guards.


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Details here:
Cheap Chinesium Lights


Now trying (unsuccessfully so far)to get some "worthy" -- as in well-made and good-looking enough for the poseur in me ) -- fork clamps to mount those below the GRiSO's triple tree.

Have only found one that looks fine, but it's pretty dear, and would hope to pay less to get something similar.

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The cheap ones I've found all seem to be for smaller forks or are pretty lame looking.

I did order these in error: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Too late to return, but the inner rubber(y) bushing makes those too small to fit.  When removed, I may be able to add some sort of cushioning to get 'em to work.  

Before I bite that high-end bullet or muck up my forks with feeble attempts at in-house fabrication, any suggestions from the bleachers (or box seats) here on better choices in the marketplace?

The fork appears to be 165mm circumference; 50mm diameter, but that's a SWAG with a tape.  Anyone know exact numbers?

Un mille GRiSO grazie.

Bill

Bill, use vernier calipers.
Fork tube should be 45mm on a Cali

ghezzi wrote:

Bill, use vernier calipers.
Fork tube should be 45mm on a Cali

Thanks.

Have one, but, obviously, not enough brain cells to remember to use it.  Doh.

I am fine with the EV's set-up; now looking for good-looking black (billet?) ones for GRiSO.

Bill

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Better bling if it was the right size.

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Cheaper

Bill, this page has multiple designs, just click on 'select' for sizes available.
Don't know how the pound converts to dollars.
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Many thanks for that.

After I measure the forks -- doh, again -- I'll see which of those suits best.

Naturally, will post (too many) pix of install down the road.

Bill

Really liked the looks of the bikemart item, but at $64, seemed a bit dear.

So, tried this: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Will return if not spot on, and get the Brit one.

Bill

Bill

I used the clamp ( and lights) from ADVMonster. John Sanders runs it. Mine in silver but probably would be better in black.

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Conor

Blame this for this thread revival :


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Yes, I am risking more cartoons from Street, but c’est la doux vie.  

It snowed a bit (only 6 inches or so) here, but enough for Kathi and me to have two lazy days of doing nothing except having a fine time.  

In my view — tho Kathi just rolls her eyes — I think surfing youtube vids of various nonsense and blithering here add up to a fine time.

So, finally on topic … I have been bumfuzzled in my attempts to find a workable mount for conspicuity lights for my GRiSO.

I have these: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

One set is already on my EV.  My Norge has way-too-expensive MotoLights on it; [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I have now returned two mounts.  Both claimed to fit 52mm tubes.  Both were nicely made items, but neither fit.

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My GRiSO’s forks are 52mm in diameter, i.e., at the far end of the first product’s fit; in the mid-range of the second's.  Unfortunately, the first wouldn’t work, period.  The (rather clever) hinge on the second was inflexible, thus when I tried to close the clamp around the fork — especially with the protective rubber barrier inside the clamps — the holes did not align sufficiently to allow the screw to enter the threaded holes of the receiving side.

The Brit ones that ghezzi mentioned look good — [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] —but are pricier than I want, especially after my latest failures.

Until I reviewed my thread just now, I had somehow missed the ones that I hadn’t even seen the ones that Conor nominated, [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] but have now gone down a different path (thus this thread revival) using the fender as a mounting spot.

See pix.

So far, I like it.

Naturally, given my ignorance of automotive electricity, I am wary of hooking them up to power.

Thinking about splicing the two wires from the lamps, and running back directly to the battery, with an added (?) amp fuse between.

Also wondering if a switch I have  — [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] — is necessary as the lights seem to draw little, i.e., why not simply have them go on when the key goes on?

Anyway, here are the photos of my piddling so far.

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You are saved from more of my babbling and pix, as I can hear Kathi humming in the tub.   Must go.      

Bill

What Connor said, these are what I've used (I painted them black)
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together with their Model 44 lights.

On the V7s I have made up mounts for the lamps from stainless strapping & aluminium plate. The fork tubes are protected with silicone gaskets cut from a baking dish. You will have different mounting options/problems, but my clamps needed to be as thin as possible to avoid fouling the dash subframe.

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Mal

Give us some feedback, Bill, on how well the lamps work mounted down nearer the axle. There are supposed to be some advantages.

Mal

Bill: my arrangement-
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Conor

Thanks for additional comments and pix.   Good looking approaches.

Lots of literature out there on the value of triangulation to conspicuity, especially having auxiliary lights mounted low.  See, e.g., [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

As I understand it, too, original idea flowed from railroad trains squishing folks because the squishees did not “see” the train as near as it was, thus the move in the RR industry to placing lights in a triangle pattern.

I am, at least for awhile, inclined to try the lower mounts — which is how they are on my Norge — rather than looking into fork clamps … but thanks for all the referrals on those.

Here are shots of those mounted and “in action.”


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My greater concern just now is the power piece.

Would be grateful for any counsel on how to hook that up.

Given low draw, straight shot back to battery?

If so, what size fuse?  Relay?  Switch?

Link into what Scott (Muzhik) used to attach those small (and rather useless) pin lights on the handguards?  

Whoa!

As I peck this out, it occurred to me that the simplest (and thus always appealing to me) approach might be the easy-peasy route of removing those tiny lights and wiring the new ones into that power source.  Can add fuse &/or switch if needed.

I invite your comments and ridicule.

Grazie.

Bill

My lights came with a neat harness Bill. You might get ideas for yours at :
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Conor

My Denali D2s (draw 10w each) came with a wiring harness, which included a relay, a fuse & a switch, and is connected directly to the battery. Switching is done by tapping into the light circuit. I couldn't get them to work using the low beam switch (30%power), but they work fine on high beam alone. I will check out the fuse & relay details for you once it stops raining here (that might be a while - it's supposed to be dry for the next 12 hours, but that wet stuff coming out of the sky feel like rain to me.

I'd say that any lightweight switch would work fine, if connected to the correct post on the relay. My switch serves to enable or disable the lights, and when enabled, they switch on with high beam. If you want daytime running light, you'll have to tap a wire that is active with low beam or ignition. Someone else who actually knows something about this should chime in about now. (Kiwi-Roy on Wildguzzi could be useful).

Mal

Bill, I'm a simple guy so I may not understand -- butt "Why add unsprung weight?"

not-fishing wrote:

Bill, I'm a simple guy so I may not understand -- butt "Why add unsprung weight?"

Because for some of us, the lights on motorcycles don't provide enough light for night riding, especially when there's a likelihood of ferals threatening to impede forward progress, suddenly.

Bill, my Denali lights run a 5 amp fuse near the battery. From there power runs to a "controller box" containing a relay & dimmer switch in a waterproof lump. Before the LEDs I had cheap 35w driving lights and used a standard 12V relay from the auto parts shop - 4 posts on it, bolted to the top frame rail near the battery & just under the seat. It was not waterproof, but mounted there it didn't get wet & lasted for years. Nowadays, you can easily buy waterproof fuse holders and, tho' less easily, waterproof or water resistant relays. I have also come across a relay with an on-board fuse.

If you check out the installation instructions for the Denali D2s on Twisted Throttle's website, it will give you the general idea of the wiring required. There's other info around on connecting up the relay. If I can do it ......

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Do this conspicuity lights really work? Especially with those drivers who actually look you right in the eye, but still pull out? I'm not too concerned about critters, as I rarely ride at night. Is conspicuity really a word?

Just back from a day on many errands in D.C., so just seeing these posts.

Many thanks. Will thunk on 'em and respond tomorrow.

Bill

Yes, it really is a word, and apparently they do work (according to "tests"). But it would be foolish to rely on them. Some drivers, when seeing a Christmas tree approaching may just ignore it, others just want to get closer!

I prefer not to ride at night myself, but when I get caught out & must, that extra light down the road is very useful - I'm then very happy that I have them.

You've seen how bright my headlight is, so seeing isn't an issue. Even if the bike lights up like something from Close Encounters, there's still a chance the numbies won't see you.

Yes, Mark, I'd forgotten about your headlight. YOU shouldn't need anything more - that could light up a football pitch. And it's not as if it's unnoticeable during the day either. Time to re-read that geegaw thread. Might as well - every time I think the rain has stopped & I can make a move, it starts again. Probably dry the other side of the Great Divide.

Yes, Mark, I'd forgotten about your headlight. YOU shouldn't need anything more - that could light up a football pitch. And it's not as if it's unnoticeable during the day either. Time to re-read that geegaw thread. Might as well - every time I think the rain has stopped & I can make a move, it starts again. Probably dry the other side of the Great Divide.

Bill Hagan wrote:

...Yes, I am risking more cartoons from Street, but c’est la doux vie...

I'm always on the lookout, Bill.

I like that low mount, triangulation idea. Looks good and seems like it should do the trick. Any clearance issues when the wheel is turned in?

Re: conspicuity and whether it really helps, all I know is that when the A-hole who made the left turn in front of me, causing me to go down and total my beloved GRiSO Rosso and separate my shoulder got out of his car and said, you all know what he said, "I didn't even see you!" I don't know if the added lights would've made a difference or not, but similarly debatable is the question of deer whistles. I don't have them on any of my bikes currently, but I did have them on the GRiSO Rosso and I never hit a deer. So there!

Street

Good morning -- or whatever it is where you are when you read this.

Overnight company's coming, so Kathi, usually a complaisant sweetie , has on her "Mess with Me & You'll See Medusa" look , so I cannot wax as eloquently on all of this as I might like.

You may thank her, of course, as I will be brief ... or as much that as I am able.  

So ...

* I appreciate the concept of sprung v. unsprung weight, but think that no big issue in this application.

* Conspicuity has -- as I understand it (a disclaimer with many loopholes) -- way more at play than mere brightness.  

I also know in my head and heart that I could be stark nekkid on my GRiSO with a red lava lamp on my head and strobe lights fore and aft and some cretins out there would not see me.  That visual is too much even for me.  

But that isn't, IMO, the issue.  My (ex) M-I-L was fond of saying she wouldn't wear seat belts in a car because she might drive into a lake and drown. She died in bed, btw; may she R.I.P.

Life is, of course, more about probabilities than asteroids striking where I sit.  Moreover, the studies seem to indicate that "triangulation" of lights on motorcycles give motorcycles more of a "vehicular presence."  That leads to more (but never all ) cagers "seeing" us sooner and at the speeds we are traveling.

I am certain -- code for think without any real proof -- that I have seen folks not turn in front of me and others not come out at intersections as result of seeing my diamond lights.  

* I do not think vibration any particular issue inasmuch as my Motolights -- which are, btw, of the filament variety, not the newer and much brighter LED sort -- have been going great guns for almost 70K miles.

No clearance issues on Norge, Street, and, tho GRiSO locked into vise on lift, appear none on it as mounted. We shall see. Good point. Thanks.

I remain skeered of the install, but will muddle through based upon the helpful suggestions here.

Just heard hair snakes hiss ... better go.