1200 Sport 8V : views on minor queries please

Hi,
It's time to book the annual service, and there are a few items I'm planning to mention to the dealer. But would first like to ask the members here for their views.

Apart from having been rollerised last year the bike is standard and has covered only 28K miles. I know, it's shamefully underused - but otherwise seems to run well, and always induces a Cheshire Cat grin!

1. Intermittent loud clattering from right cylinder. Sometimes happens momentarily on restarting when I've stopped to refuel, and I noticed it once yesterday at low speed in traffic. I wear earplugs and it's clearly audible. It goes away soon after the revs rise, and I've not noticed any dash warnings. The engine sounds pretty silky and smooth from cold, but runs noisier - about equally on both cylinders - when warmed up (I'm assuming this is the norm, as per advice given to other forumites). I've seen mentions of problems with a blown sump spacer gasket, so was wondering if this could be a symptom.
2. Just perceptible play in rear wheel, whether rocking it 12-6 or 9-3. This is when cold, should I check again when warm to see if it goes away?
3. What is an excessive amount of oil to collect in the airbox drain (the hose with the little removable plug)?
4. Since rollerising, the exhaust pops on deceleration. Usually a single loud bang (at predictable revs) followed by quieter popping. I don't mind the softer popping, but wouldn't mind losing the first bang! Assuming it's not down to an air leak somewhere, would remapping possibly be the only thing to deal with this? (A new map was done as part of the rollerisation.)

Grateful for any input.
Colin

The rattle is a good pointer to the gasket between the sump spacer and block having blown out around the delivery gallery. While not common it's not rare either. Get the gasket replaced with one of the new, thicker, ones.

Get Guzzidiag, Reader and Writer and buy one of Mark's maps. Better fueling, economy and no more backfiring on the over-run. If running a non stock pipe do you have the dB killer in place.

Pete

Historically I've steered well clear of anything to do with ignition and fuelling, and maintaining the state of tune (or perhaps lack of) is something I've always left to a dealer.  Assuming I bite the bullet with one of Mark's maps, how do I confirm which ECU, for the correct Reader/Writer version?  And would I be committed to DIY tuning from then on, because dealers wouldn't want to touch it?

ECU is IAW-5AM.

And once you have one of Mark's maps, you shouldn't need to visit the dealer ever again! (for engine tuning at least).

Most dealers wouldn't know a genuine map (factory) from a good 'un (BeetleMap). You will notice the difference though, and it will be awesome.

2nd Pete on the sump spacer gasket. All up cost less than $25 for the pair plus installation, if that's the way you go. Seriously though, these bikes are simple and pretty much anyone can work on them without having major dramas. Might even be a Ghetto member nearby who can assist/guide...

Thanks, fellas, for the encouragement on gasket and map fronts.  Any thoughts on the remaining two items in my first post?

Pete, it has the stock pipe.

Think I've spotted an improved spacer gasket on Gutsibits, part# GU14003600/ENA14036 - and it's less than 8 quid for both gaskets.  Is the breather return connection on the sump the only other gasket I'd need, or is it possible not to disturb this (I'd be working at ground level)?

Well as long as the exhaust gaskets are good and it's tuned properly it shouldn't be banging loudly on the over-run even with the very pedestrian -03 map.

As for the gaskets? The spacer gasket is the important one. Not sure at this remove of the new number and dunno if the thieving plagiarists at Guzzibits know about the supercesion.

Pete

Its a 1200 Sport, Pete. They would have put the 1-Lambda Stelvio map in it when was rollerised.

Gotcha. Sorry, I'm in holiday mode.

Apart from getting hold of the leads and software, is there anything else I should know before embarking on the BeetleMap course, e.g. is it likely to be an iterative process of map tweaking, to get my (stock) bike running as well as intended?

Being fairly ignorant of these matters, I couldn't help wondering how a non-standard map for a stock bike could be an improvement on the maker's, unless they simply did a poor job in the first place.  Is it that their map favours low emissions "at all costs" whereas a BeetleMap has a more "balanced" approach?

The factory maps are made to work adequately in a variety of markets and fuel variations. There are no market specific maps. That is, there's no UK map, or US map etc. The map must meet the Euro3 emissions spec, which is where the O2 sensor fuel trims come into play. The map must work for bikes with varying states of tune, including aftermarket exhausts. They do a reasonable job considering. In the case of rollerised bikes, the factory specifies which map to install after the upgrade. The roller cams are different. For the Sport, they specify the flat tappet small tank Stelvio map. Don't ask me why. Too cheap to commission a new map, I expect.

For the maps I make, I completely disregard any emissions requirements. The O2 sensor input is switched off, and the ECU does not trim the sub 5000 RPM area. I strive for a linear torque curve, without compromising fuel economy, if possible. The maps are pipe specific. The 8V is very sensitive to changes in fuel quality and air and exhaust tuning. For this reason, some bikes may require a CO trim adjustment. Some may require minor tweaks to the map. For most, it's just plug 'n play.

In a nutshell, my maps are better than the factory versions.

Many thanks for the explanation, Mark.

Once your map is installed, would it be a matter of seeing how my bike runs and feels, or would there first be a post-install diagnostic, using GuzziDiag, for checking and/or setting any specific parameters?  Main reason for asking is the video tutorials I've watched end as soon as the Write operation has finished.  If it's nearly always that simple then... great!

Assuming the throttle bodies are balanced, and valves are set correctly (must be set at 0.1mm inlet & 0.15mm exhaust), after installing the map, you must reset the TPS and autolearning parameters. Start the engine and let it run until the idle settles after the warm-up period. Take note of any roughness in the idle, or perhaps it's idling high. That's when you adjust the CO trim. Otherwise, take it for ride.

Thanks, Mark.

Colin