You will look at my flange

Titanium. Yes. Oh, yes.


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Great, well done Mark!

My mum taught me to not show my Flange until the second date

I'm not a doctor, but I'll take a look

waterbottle wrote:

My mum taught me to not show my Flange until the second date

You obviously took no notice of your mother.

How's them ribs Cooper?

I also was going to comment about said flange - snot a polite comment in mixed company, but then again, pouch, furburger, muffin and a few others are not either.

Oz1200Guzzi wrote:

I also was going to comment about said flange - snot a polite comment in mixed company, but then again, pouch, furburger, muffin and a few others are not either.

Map of Tassie

There be many more.

Oh, Mark, nice flanges!

All looks good but how do you keep your studs and nuts so rust free?

Double entendres ( or whatever fill your quim) aside, does this flange kit have studs 'an nuts included?

As they say, do come clean on the info!

That is a very nice pair of flanges. Flanges to be proud of.

Other than the weight savings is there an advantage to running the Ti head pipes? The wife would stroke out if she learned the cost, but, I am considering this.

Always going on about yer hard parts!

(fancy!)

Nice Mark.


On another note, did you not clean your nether regions before giving a full on flange picture? or is that some sort of flaking issue :-)

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moby wrote:

All looks good but how do you keep your studs and nuts so rust free?

Buggered if I know. They've never rusted.  

Quote :

Double entendres ( or whatever fill your quim) aside, does this flange kit have studs 'an nuts included?  

No. These are custom made by Dan Ratford in FNQ. Ron (waterbottle) has two sets, and I've got a set for Pete. They were a solution to my bending aluminium flanges that come with the Ti headers.

ratso88 wrote:

That is a very nice pair of flanges. Flanges to be proud of.

Other than the weight savings is there an advantage to running the Ti head pipes? The wife would stroke out if she learned the cost, but, I am considering this.

Yes. They allow the heads to run cooler, as they sink heat out of the heads better than the stick double-walled ones. They never need cleaning, as they get so hot that anything that touches them vaporises. They look pretty in purple.

sidrat wrote:

On another note, did you not clean your nether regions before giving a full on flange picture? or is that some sort of flaking issue :-)

What is this 'clean' you speak of? Sometimes I hose road grime off.  Mostly not. It's not flaking, but there is sandblast damage from dirt roads.

I like the Ti bits very much, but owning Guzzis has rendered me too cheap to actually buy them.

HI Beetle,

you've raised a question that I wouldn't mid your advice on. I've got a Mistral carbon/Ti pipe, same as on your bike and I've got your map as well. Goes so well! What advantages are there (other than looks) of putting the Arrow Ti headers on it? Do you know how much weight is saved?

When my busted thumb heals I'm getting the following fitted: Matris suspension, Agostini carbon hugger, Gifrap rear-sets and LSL clip ons and a motion-pro throttle (the standard one need two "bites" to get to fully open) and then will get the seat modified to suit the riding position. Have a LED headlight to also be fitted, like one you previously advised about on flea bay, plus the Aprilia lightweight discs to be fitted and new EBC pads. Seems I should squeeze the last of the piggy bank and go for the Arrow header. What do you think? Also 2012model 1200SE with 24 K. would you get the alternator belt changed whilst in for service? Saw something about this in a recent thread.
My exhaust studs and the nuts have rusted quite badly, what would you do about this? If I did go for the Arrow headers I'd look at the Ti flanges but would want to change the rusted studs, but worry about the complexity / difficulty of doing this, have you heard of alternative studs (i.e. other than factory ones)? Many thanks for any comments you might have.



Cheers,

Ross / Moby

Hi Moby, put some penetrating oil on the studs / nuts, let soak a couple of days and the nuts should come off.     Tip: Use a single hex socket to remove, a 12 point might slip and round off the nut.
Assemble using a lot of either Silver Nickel grade Anti-Seize or Copper Anti-Seize. They will still come off easy in 20years if fitted like this.
There are different types of nuts you can use to protect the studs from rusting too ....
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Some Flange dressing to go along with Flange bread and a glass of Peru...



Nonetheless, those are some damn good looking flanges!