I have an electrical problem with my new for me 2016 GRiSO

I have just purchased my third GRiSO, this one is a 2016 with 1700 original miles, one owner, and it looks brand new. I have a problem that is of
my own making that I need help on. I just got the bike from the West Coast on last Wednesday and immediately started to add some options. Two
of them was the Stucchi CARC stainless steel protector and the other is the small Stucchi roll bar for the CARC.

While installing these two I accidently pinched what I believe to be the speed sensor cable that contains three wires. One of the wires, the brown one got grounded.

I changed the oil and filter (I get it from Harpers, 10W60 Motorex) just to make sure it had the correct oil in it, I get that done and go to start it for the first time since
getting it and I got the red triangle and the ECM not communicating message. I started looking for the problem at where I was working on the CARC and see the cable
is pinched, I strip off the cable insulation and see the brown wire bare in one spot and see what I did. I separated the three wires pulled the seat and find three 15 amp fuses
have popped. I replaced those and then the display was showing normal again but still no start.

Checking the fuses again the second 15 amp fuse from the front had popped again, the others were fine. Changed the fuse again and watched it this time and it popped with
authority as soon as I turned on the key with a bright flash. Whatever is going on is sure a dead short, that is for sure.

Did not really work on any other part of the bike so I am not sure what to think. In the mean time just to make sure I remove the trickle charger cable and the cell phone charger/mount from the bike that was installed from the first owner. I really did not see any problem with either but I took them off anyway.

I can only hope that when the brown wire grounded it did not fry any components like the ECM. Hopefully the fuses stopped that but I still have a fuse that pops (second 15 amp)
as soon as the key is turned on.

Does anyone know what circuit that second 15 amp fuse is for? Has anyone had this happen to them?

Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance. GRiSO Von (Dave)

I see why you're on your third GRiSO. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.)
If it's like my 1100 GRiSO, that fuse is labeled B on the fuse box and also B on the wiring diagram, in a very small font. That might help. But I can't really understand the wiring in that part of the wiring diagram.
Kiwi Roy should be along soon to explain all.
Good luck.
Moto

EDIT: The same fuse, on the same circuit, is labeled f2 on the GRiSO 1200 diagram, at component 22.

Fuse B - Tail lights, license plate light, passing ignition relay (15A)

As Dave says
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You must have created a short somewhere.
Old Electricians Trick
Wire a high wattage bulb in place of the fuse, unlike the fuse it won't blow but just operate in series with the fuse load, if your circuit is ok it will operate at partial brightness but every time you move a wire and create a short it will flash to full brightness. You will soon find out where the short is as the flashing light allows you to zoom in on the short.
I usually use an old headlight bulb soldered to a blown fuse.

I would start looking around the rear fender, the number plate light for example.

As I said, I didn't understand this part of the wiring diagram, but I have studied it more thoroughly.

The components fed from auxiliary fuse B are the (incandescent) license plate bulb and the passing light switch on the left switch cluster, both via the yellow wire from the fuse, but also  the (LED) tail light bulb and the parking light bulb (54), via the yellow wire from the fuse to pin 1 of the light switch connector and back out pin 2 on the yellow/black striped wire.

The wiring diagram as edited by Carl Allison doesn't show clearly which wires are connected when the ignition switch (13) is in the run position, since the six terminal circles seem to all be connected together. The real situation is that the terminals are connected in pairs: 1 to 2, 3 to 4, and 5 to 6. The terminal circles in the diagram should have been represented like this, to show those connections:

 o-o o-o o-o

I modified a copy of Carl's diagram to show this and to indicate current flow directions with arrows in a number of places. I can now understand the diagram more easily. I would post it (still in .gif format) if I knew where would be convenient for others get it.

I've just found another version of the GRiSO 1200 wiring diagram in black and white that does show the correct connections between the pairs of terminals in the ignition switch as I described them. It's here:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] .

As always, I'm way behind the two Kiwis, Dave and Roy, in this department.

Moto

Thanks for the help men, I looked at it a little last night. It has a re-located license plate and light with the rear fender eliminated (which I love, I did it on my other two Grisos) and I am going to look into how and where the license plate light is wired. Also going to order a new Odyssey battery
today, mine is prolly as old as the bike and original (3 years) and won't stay charged unless it is on the tender. That could be the cause of my
no start issue.
Even though the display showed 12.2 volts off the tender it may not have the current to spin the starter. Either way
it is getting a new battery ordered. Dave

GRiSO Von wrote:

... Changed the fuse again and watched it this time and it popped with
authority as soon as I turned on the key with a bright flash.

GRiSO Von wrote:

... I am going to look into how and where the license plate light is wired....

You're on the right track. You can rule out the circuit for the LED tail light (and the parking light in the headlamp housing) by putting in a fuse (or a test bulb) and turning the key counterclockwise to the park position. If the fuse doesn't blow (or the test bulb doesn't light up), the problem is in the yellow-wire circuit feeding the license plate bulb, the headlamp flasher relay, and the starter relay.

Moto

Found out that Odyssey does not make a battery for the GRiSO, I have an Odyssey in my 1100 Sport and have been very happy with it.

Looked around a little and found a Motobatt MBTX16U at Battery Mart and purchased that, they can be reached in the States at 800-405-2121.

I paid $117.20 USD with free FedEx shipping, should have it no later then Saturday.

The 16 Doesn't have enough capacity.. You need a 20.

Pete Roper wrote:

The 16 Doesn't have enough capacity.. You need a 20.

Unless - it's a LiFePO4, otherwise known as a Lithium (Iron) Battery (Note not Lion!) I have a 14 AH in my Sport and it has 40% more CCA than the equivalent Yuasa 20 AH

It isn't.

I live now in Miami guys, I don't care about CCA, I do care about Amp Hours and this battery I just ordered has more then the factory battery had as printed on the battery so it should be good to go, did not want to pony up $250+ for a Lithium, dats fo sure!

Dave

I found this battery as an alternative to the expensive Yuasa that keeps dying in my bike: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

I never heard of the brand but apparently it supplies batteries for the motoGP. It has the same attributes as the Yuasa but 330CCA's rather than 270 and only 78€. It just arrived per mail today so going to test it soon.

Got the new battery today. Took off the license plate light (that was changed with the fender eliminator by Ducati Las Vegas) and found the wires
coming out of it were not protected like they should have been and had a 90 degree turn which caused one of the wires to ground. Removed the license plate light for now and installed the new battery and she started right up with no more blown fuses!

Tell that Beetle guy thanks but no thanks! This new battery on that starter in 6th gear would prolly run 40 MPH on the starter alone!

Appreciate all the posts! Dave

I found the same license plate frame on the Internet (L.E.D. by Radiantz) and purchased it, got it yesterday and installed it
but this time I did it right by drilling a hole and installing a grommet for the wires to go through instead of being trapped and
kinked flat, should last a long time. It is a shame the Dealer did not do a better job on the first one for the original
owner!

Dave

Sorry I will have to learn how to post again
[quote="GRiSO Von"]I have just purchased my third GRiSO, this one is a 2016 with 1700 original miles, one owner, and it looks brand new.  I have a problem that is of
my own making that I need help on.  I just got the bike from the West Coast on last Wednesday and immediately started to add some options.  Two
of them was the Stucchi CARC stainless steel protector and the other is the small Stucchi roll bar for the CARC.

While installing these two I accidently pinched what I believe to be the speed sensor cable that contains three wires.  One of the wires, the brown one got grounded.

I changed the oil and filter (I get it from Harpers, 10W60 Motorex) just to make sure it had the correct oil in it, I get that done and go to start it for the first time since
getting it and I got the red triangle and the ECM not communicating message.  I started looking for the problem at where I was working on the CARC and see the cable
is pinched, I strip off the cable insulation and see the brown wire bare in one spot and see what I did.  I separated the three wires pulled the seat and find three 15 amp fuses
have popped.  I replaced those and then the display was showing normal again but still no start.

Checking the fuses again the second 15 amp fuse from the front had popped again, the others were fine.  Changed the fuse again and watched it this time and it popped with
authority as soon as I turned on the key with a bright flash.  Whatever is going on is sure a dead short, that is for sure.

Did not really work on any other part of the bike so I am not sure what to think.  In the mean time just to make sure I remove the trickle charger cable and the cell phone charger/mount from the bike that was installed from the first owner.  I really did not see any problem with either but I took them off anyway.

I can only hope that when the brown wire grounded it did not fry any components like the ECM.  Hopefully the fuses stopped that but I still have a fuse that pops (second 15 amp)
as soon as the key is turned on.

Unplug the speedo sensor from the loom, replace the fuse and see if it blows again. If it does it isn't the speedo sensor damage that's causing it to pop. If it doesn't? Replace the sensor.