If you end up wanting to change the cables, you may find my experience useful.
I recently made a set of replacement throttle cables fro my 2014 Stelvio NTX as I have lifted the handlebars quite a bit. The throttle pull cable was just too short and was pulling on full right steering lock I decided to basically replicate the cables but made then 10cm longer.
I used a Venhill universal kit:
Venhill Braided double throttle kit
You can get cheaper non-braided versions and even different coloured outers. You can buy these directly from Kenma in Australia and they had stock locally. Kenma
It comes with a range of bends, connectors and end nipples (none of which work as the NTX end pieces are specific for the bike.
Tip 1. Do 1 cable at a time so you don't get them mixed up as the pull and push cables are different. Leaving 1 in place also shows you the cable run. Make 1 cable and fit it and then remove and do the second.
Tip 2. once the cable is removed, Pull the inner to one end and measure the length of free inner. This is the target you need to hit. I made the outer 10cm longer and made the inner free length the same and got a perfect result.
The metal end pieces are crimped on the standard cables so I just used a Dremel to cut around the crimped bit. This leaves the metal parts and the cable socket. Cut the new outer to the desired length. I needed to exactly cut one of the 2M outers supplied to get what I wanted so I have an entire 2M outer left over.
Assemble the components and thread them on the inner cable - rear mount, ferrule, outer, ferrule, rubber cover for adjuster, top bend with adjuster. I used the preinstalled nipple on the throttlebody end and soldered the nipple on the throttle end but you can do it eather way. Cut the cable so you have the EXACT amount of free play as standard. Fit the nipple and "birdcage" the cable end.
This is easy if you buy the expensive Venhill tool but I used a soft jaw vice and a punch with a concave head. Look on the Venhill site for videos on how to do this. Solder it on.
This is hard if you use a soldering iron as if you overheat the inner cable it will anneal and get really brittle. It is very easy if you use the dip in molten solder method.
I used isopropal alcohol to clean the cable - just spray it on the end of the cable and nipple.
Cover the birdgaced part of the cable with electronics resin/flux - do not get it further up the cable.
I heated non-resined solder (from plumbing supplier) in a metal cup with a propane torch and and when molten, just dip the nipple in the molten solder and hold for a few seconds. Do not dip in any deeper and you DO NOT want solder running up the cable. This will prevent flex and it will break in use. Clean it up with a file and reassemble. Adjust both adjusters and jobs a goodun'!
Looks like this:
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