Oil leak in the back of the engine

Great!
Thank you Pete.

Hi,
I have already ordered the gaskets and I am just waiting they arrive to get my hands on the job
I saw in some post that the headers and side stand had to be removed to have access to all the sump bolts and drop it down. Is this confirmed?

BR,
Matias

i have done the job and i did remove the side-stand
but i can't remember if i had to....

I used the "lumber stand" but the official service stand or Pete's front wheel chock and a jack would also work

Don’t you have to take the headers off to get to one of the bolts on the side stand…..making this more complicated then it needs to be, or, an I mistaken?
Thank you.

If yours is an early one with the spacer then you find that the side stand and the oil cooler are bolted to the spacer! So they need to come off and yes, one of the exhaust pipes - but that means you can polish the pipe

Thanks guys....I better plan some time for the job...

Hi Everton e,
I took a look at the service manuals I have and was not easy to identify the torque values for the sump bolts, oil tube connections,...
Do you have this available by chance?

BR

The torque settings are in 4 pages in the  "Characteristics" section at the beginning of the manuals  -mine are from page CHAR14 to CHAR18.

I would rather you read them there than have the risk of me mistyping added to the pot
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Thank you Jon

I am sad today
I was hoping, praying, those gaskets to be torn to pieces, but no such luck...
The two of them, regardless the 42,000 km, were in pretty good shape (the lower one broke when I removed it from the pan.
It looks more and more that I will have to go for the main rear seal

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Maria's. I may of led you astray, for some reason I thought that your bike was an 1100. I have no idea why as you clearly state it's an 8V.

This changes things a bit. Disregard my comments about the Welch plug, it doesn't have one.

If yours is an early engine the fault will be the fact that the case and oil delivery tube on the main bearing flange are machined wrong and the two lower bolts that hold it on may be too long.

You'll have to drop the motor and remove the gearbox and clutch. Then remove the flange, (Special tool required.) file a couple of mm off the length of the oil delivery tube, fit a new, slightly thicker, o-ring to the tube to ensure it seals and reinstall the flange WITHOUT a gasket, just a thin smear of Threebond 1211 or similar. Also replace the two bottom bolts with ones 5mm shorter.

This was a manufacturing defect on early motors. Sorry for the confusion.

You thought well Pete...My GRiSO is indeed a 1100. I understand...Too many people with too many problems We can only thank you for your support.
Anyway, if a miracle doesn't happen and those drops will keep showing on the garage floor I will have to go for it.
It might be the seal, the flange, the camshaft bearing plug....If I will drop the motor I will check all of that.
I am only divided if I should try it miself (i'm short of the special tools and other hardware) or give it to a repair shop. There is only a Guzzi dealer close to me (= expensive and slow) and I don't feel confortable giving the bike to a common repair shop....So far I have been handling things myself...

OK, so now I'm wondering why I thought it was an 8V? never mind, as you were.....

Hi Pete,

I saw a couple of vídeos on Youtube (this is one of them [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] )where the mechanic unbolted the engine from the bell housing and left the gearbox on the bike (just dropped the engine).
Is this a good alternative method or is it better to drop engine+gearbox completely?

Also, which are the special tools you need to have for such job?
I undertand there is one special tool to pull the main bearing flange out, and another tool to center the clutch disk...Are they a must?

Thanks Pete

Matias - that is a Youtube about plumbing.
But I can assure you that Pete will say in his experience it is harder to get the engine out with the gearbox in the frame

lcjohnny wrote:

Matias - that is a Youtube about plumbing.

Sorry guys definitely the wrong vídeo....

These are the examples:
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They did seem to have struggled with the clutch hydraulic actuator and bell housing/engine connection bolts....

If that is the video of the bloke in the UK I reckon they're mad. A more time consuming and labour intensive way of going about it I can't imagine! Just pull the arse end out, yank the airbox and lift the frame. That method is a classic case of trying to be clever and failing.

The only special tool you will require is the puller for the rear flange. Do expect to replace at least a couple of the bolts that hold the ring gear to the flywheel assembly and use a high quality allen socket on them if you want any chance of success.

Thanks Pete

I don't know, but I don't mind a little drip drop drippety drop drop.....

....and you are probably right Bulldog...
But I must confess...This thing gets on my nerves, and it gets me anxious thinking ir can get worse from one day to the other...