Passenger pegs

I thought I'd see if I can refurbish my pillion pegs. They rattle about, and no longer stay up when folded.

I thought it would be easy enough, but those pivot pins have been in there, quietly corroding for 15 years. The circlip comes off easy, but that pin ain't moving, and I don't want to hit it too hard and burr it over.

Do I need heat?

Yes, but go gently. Apply a bit of penetrating oil on the pins and heat with something pretty tame. Often a hair dryer is enough, or an electric heat gun. Just get it hot enough so as to be uncomfortable to bare skin.

I'm beginning to think I might have to drill it. But that may betray a lack of patience. I warmed it up and encouraged it with a hammer and a punch. It's not moving. So I've soaked it in penetrating oil again, and will rinse and repeat tomorrow.

If you have an IR thermometer heat the bracket it until the alloy is at least above 200⁰c. It may take a long time as the heat will flow away to the bracket.

lcjohnny wrote:

If you have an IR thermometer heat the bracket it until the alloy is at least above 200⁰c. It may take a long time as the heat will flow away to the bracket.

OK. That's interesting. I have got an IR thermometer (used mostly for checking track temperature when racing with No 2 Son) but didn't use it today. But can confidently say I didn't get anywhere near that temperature. Will that take the paint off?

If it does, Hammerite Smoothrite silk finish looks good

I'm back to this. I bought a new (used) hanger and peg, and it works, but the peg is scratched up. I've now got two spare hangers, with good pegs. But I just can't shift those pins. I've got them really hot in the vice, but I'm afraid I'm going to break the vice! Maybe I need a bigger vice. Or a press. Or something. There must be a way. Suggestions?

Lots of WD40, a really big hammer, a carbon steel drift, and someone brave enough to hold the drift while you whack it with the really big hammer....

I'm a believer in ATF/Acetone,time & heat,,,,for something I don't want to damage,,, a paint stripper heat gun instead of a torch,,,after a few cycles (days?) of soaking and heat,,,when things are smoking hot spray some of that frozen canned air at the pin before hitting it with a bigger hammer.

Patience helps a lot if there is no urgency.

For something that I don't want to damage, I'd break out some plastic hammers & brass punches,,, if you deform the end of that pin with steel,,, it may never come out in one piece.

You can't use heat. The alloy carrier expands faster than the pin.

I just looked at my pegs,,,,the whole pin bushing assembly on my G1100 is encased is some type of thin plastic seal/washer assembly,,,heat & acetone wouldn't be a good idea,,,

as Beetle says the cheap white cast metal is fragile as af,,, be mindful that any force you apply is spread out to the base & not just the 2 support fingers that stick out,,,they look like they're just waiting to snap.

From looking at it,,,if you soak the pins in your lube of choice,,,get cloths to protect the paint,,, a small C Clamp or (big vice grips) & a socket big enough to fit over the head of the pin,,,you should be able to press it out,,,tighten it up,,, xtra half a turn,,wait a while,, more pressure,,, gentle wack with a hammer,,,wash rinse repeat it'll come,,,,

I'm really struggling with this. I've been soaking in WD. heating with a hot air gun, and trying to press it out in a bench vice, with an old socket over the fat end. Before that I tried a punch and a hammer when it was on the bike. Again with no success.

I think it's going to need a shock to break it free, but with it off the bike, I'm struggling to find a setup where I can support the whole assembly in a position where I can smack the pin effectively with a punch or a drift.

Has anyone successfully got one of these things out?

beetle wrote:

You can't use heat. The alloy carrier expands faster than the pin.

I'm sure you're right. But I don't understand. In my head that's the point. I'm heating the casting, in the hope that it expands more quickly than the pin going through it, so that the bond between the surfaces is broken or weakened, or just opened up enough to let some lubricant in.

Do you mean that the casting expands in such a way as to grip the pin even more tightly?

Trogladyte wrote:

beetle wrote:

You can't use heat. The alloy carrier expands faster than the pin.

Do you mean that the casting expands in such a way as to grip the pin even more tightly?

No.

Not exactly. When you heat metal with a hole, the hole always gets larger. Using localised heat will cause the alloy carrier to expand more rapidly, but it will also cool more rapidly. It will expand unevenly. If you're using a torch, as you heat one side the other is cooling. You would need to use multiple torches to get an even expansion, or some sort of oven to heat it evenly.


Maybe two torches, one on each side might work. Try to heat the alloy of the carrier only.


Edit: I don't think a heat gun will get it hot enough.


Edit 2: I've been thinking about this.

Ah.

OK. I will persevere.

I am using a hot air gun, which is getting it pretty hot, but getting the heat even is a real challenge, because about the only thing that carrier metal seems to do really well is conduct heat away from where you want it to be. As you say, while you heat one side, the other side cools rapidly.

Two heat guns simultaneously might work.

How about a bag of frozen gel wrapping around it to shrink the metal instead of trying to expand it...something you might use to ice your elbow or knee and wrapping around the whole contraption.

Presumably the pins are unidirectional...I'll have to look at mine, so if you're tapping, you're trying to force it out in the direction it's supposed to be removed not vice versa?