Sheared silent-block tank mount

So, when I had the GRiSO's tank off recently, one of the rubber silent-blocks that attaches the tank at the rear to the frame sheared off completely ( photos here)

I may have been a tad over-zealous tightening, though on a 15 year old bike I suppose not surprising that rubber parts have deteriorated and weakened.

Anyway two nice new silent-blocks arrived from stein-dinse today and I naively though, right, I'll just remove the tank mounting bolts, lift the rear of the tank slightly, remove the old silent-blocks, slip in the new ones and "Bob's yer uncle". As I say naive!

There seems to be no easy way to get a grip on the stub of the silent block left in the frame, got a bit of grip with a pliers, but it ain't budging, I suspect it's now another tank off job and a screw extractor or something to get a grip, so for now I just put everything back together, with the torn block in place. With the other tank mounting bolts secured I think its's safe enuff for now.

So just checking if anyone else has replaced these and what is the recommended way of removing old silent blocks, any special "tricks" ?

Thanks for any suggestions

I've always managed to twist them off with vice grips, eventually.......

OK, thanks Pete...and I do have a small vice-grips ...somewhere....


.....searched high up and low down....but didn't find the small grips.
However, emboldened post dinner by a couple of glasses of Straya's finest, (dangerous!) went at it again and shifted the stubs with a regular vice grips without doing any damage.

What Pete said ... with, in my case, even more emphasis on "eventually."  

I was amazed at how those rascals -- actually, and luckily, in my case -- only one -- can fuse themselves into a seemingly solid piece of the frame.

I tried various solvents, too, and patience (not a virtue of mine), and one day as I mused about how to use explosives in a safe way , victory.  

Put anti-seize on the new guy.  Haven't checked on it in a couple of years, but hope that'll make the R&R job easier if needed.

Bill

Edited to add that I think I even used a breaker bar to get mine lose, tho I cannot recall what I used to get that bar and whatever pliers I had to join.  But it worked.  I might have just scared it loose.  

Thanks Bill, just updated as you posted, some anti seize in me (vino), , and a vice grips shifted them, but you are right, they were stubborn little buggers!.
Anyway, job done so should be good for another 15 years, :-)

I just took the centre punch and hammer option to free it up, it turned quite easily, that got the first 360 degrees, and then the vice grips for a few more turns. Now waiting for the lube to do its job as it's not getting any easier to turn and I don't want to sheer it. Might wind it back in a bit to work the WD40 down the thread and try again tomorrow.
Another thought was the angle grinder to put a couple of faces on the fitting so I could get a spanner onto it.

Just saying... WD40 is not a penetrating fluid; make your own: 50% ATF, 50% Acetone

OK good to know.....anyway got impatient and had another crack at it, it seemed easier to turn and now it's out. Can screw it all the way in and out with my fingers now. Might grind a couple of small faces on the new ones in case I have to go through this again. Maybe just make my own, can't be too difficult, see how much new ones are first

They are €9 each from Stein Dinse, or US$7 mgcycle

Blue, 243, Loctite on the thread on the bush and nickel based anti seize on the tank securing bolt.

Roger. Thanks