My used (new to me) 2013 GRiSO questions log!

Hi all, I am super happy to be a GRiSO owner after all these years! I first saw the GRiSO on a trip to NYC many years ago - parked on the street it was captivating - I immediately took some pictures. Fast forward 7 busy years later after having a lovely son and moving out of the city, I realized that since the GRiSO had been discontinued for a while (and it doesn't look like MG will be updating it soon) - and the used prices had actually gone up! since I last checked - so I finally took the plunge! And I have to tell you the few rides I have had so far I'm loving it. This is my dream bike after all so I don't plan on getting any other bike anytime soon - except maybe a vitpilen 701

I bought a used one (2013 1200 SE with 4.3k miles with a few extra upgrades - no leaks/obvious issues so far). I am taking it to the local mechanic to get an oil change and fresh tires and a general tune up. But there are some quirks/questions that I was not able to find in the multiple forums/fb groups so so I would just make a questions log without clunking up the forums with multiple posts - fyi I am in the US. So here goes:

1) I have a local gas station that sells ethanol-free gas but it is only 89 octane. Otherwise, I have the usual shell/mobile/bp, etc but the max premium is 93 octane (w/ethanol). What is the guidance as I read that better to have higher octane than lower for the motor? but I'm also wary of the tank bubbling issues with the ethanol gas...

2) the gas cap is comparatively loose/wiggly to other bikes that I have owned, where you have to put some pressure to open/close. Seems there is a rubber plug that I found some water around the seams when the cap is open.

3) do you guys use any rubber protectant/sealant spray for the CARC/swimgarm rubber boots to help from UV/Moisture? Or should regular wipes/cleaning be ok?

4) seems that having a rear hugger is quite mandatory if you want to keep the shocks/mount joints etc clean/rust-free in the long run?

5) I really want to get a lipo battery at some point and was looking at NOCO  NPL20 - which is an 18.9amp equivalent and has a built-in BMS. Have you guys had good experiences with Lipos? hopefully, it should be a direct fit without stressing the fuse etc.
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That's it for now (I'm sure I'll have more)! Bonus photo of my son on the bike - he loves it that it's Italian - he's a big fan of Italian supercars of course. Thanks in advance.

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What year?

Pete Roper wrote:

What year?

2013 - I added it to the description. Thank you!

Hi Buddha, congrats with your bike. It's a beauty, with that juicy pipe and comfy seat!  

No doubt much more knowledgeable members will chip in soon, but I can already comment on item 3 & 4.  
Re 3: i have never heard on any issue with corrosion on the CARC. Perhaps if you live in a very coastal and humid region, but even then: you are the first person commenting on it. Again, probably other members will have more info.
re 4: Although a hugger certainly looks fast, I went for a much cheaper neoprane shock sleeve. Something like this one on Fleabay or you can make it yourself from an old wetsuit. Works perfectly fine for me (so far, after 2 seasons). My only reservation is that (especially in humid conditions) moisture could build up as I tend to forget cleaning or even looking at it, as the shock is hiding behind that black neoprane.

Thank you, Bioman! for 3) I was referring to the rubber boots for the carc/swingarm, not the carc itself which hopefully will stay fine as I live in quite a humid area during the summer. I've clarified in the post.

4) Thank you for the advice! I had not thought about the shock boots but that's probably a much smarter investment, as the cheapest huggers by pyramid I feel are still quite overpriced...

As a 2013 it should have a roller top end so you're clear there.

1.) Fuel? If you can it's best to run ethanol free simply because there is evidence the corn syrup makes the tank swell. They will run on any old lizard piss but the higher the octane the better as far as preventing detonationnis concerned.

2.) Gas cap being 'Wiggly'? My only guess here is maybe the tank was swapped under warranty and when the cap was swapped over the gasket didn't go with it. Remove the surround and then the cap and see if there is a black plastic/*Rubber* gasket between the tank itself and the bottom of the cap. If it's missing the cap will tend to not only leak but allow the ingress of water, (I found this out the hard way! ) Sadly the gasket isn't available as a separate part so you'll need to make one out of thin rubber if it is missing.

3.) In the last year or so I've heard of two top boots tearing and they are no longer available so it's probably worth spraying them with silicone spray of the 'Armourall' variety now and again but washing won't damage them.

4.) Shock sock as mentioned above works fine. I have a hugger on my second bike but only because it came with one. Some of them seem crack prone as well.

5.) Can't help on the battery. I'm happy enough with the stock YTX 20 CH/BS. Yes it's heavy. The whole bike is an anvil!

Hi Buddha
Nice bike

firstlly - what Pete says
plus

I prefer shock socks to huggers on a GRiSO because
1) Huggers tend to bang on the underseat and scratch and crack - although the suspension movement is limited the bike is low and the extra 25mm (1") over the tyre is enough to hit the underbody
2) From experience the pyramid hugger does not go low enough to stop spray washing grease out of the shock linkage - but then i live in UK and it used to rain here

Shock sock. I’ve tried two different huggers. Both were shite.

Your 89 is about 93 RON. I’ve run our 91 (87 for you) without any issues, but typically use our 95 (your 91) or 98. Use the highest octane non-ethanol fuel you can find.

Power= Torque x Revs. Surely this has to be for a given engine capacity.

In my experience, the easiest way to gain more power is to increase the capacity of the motor, all other parameters being equal.

There is another alternative to a Shock Sock or hugger.
A few people have fitted a rubber flap in front of the rear tyre (See pictures).
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I adopted this idea after having a hugger mounting break resulting it falling on the tyre and causing enough smoke to make my following mates think I'd blown up my engine.
The flap is very effective at keeping crap of the rear shock, it is also cheap and easy to instal.
It just needs to be flexible and robust, I used a section of of an old surplus car floor mat.

1) I have a local gas station that sells ethanol-free gas but it is only 89 octane. Otherwise, I have the usual shell/mobile/bp, etc but the max premium is 93 octane (w/ethanol). What is the guidance as I read that better to have higher octane than lower for the motor? but I'm also wary of the tank bubbling issues with the ethanol gas...
I've been using 89 octane non ethanol for 5+ years and 93 when on a ride and can't find non ethanol. Ethanol will expand your tank if you use it all the time and the bike sits. Mine did. I have a silver 2014.

2) the gas cap is comparatively loose/wiggly to other bikes that I have owned, where you have to put some pressure to open/close. Seems there is a rubber plug that I found some water around the seams when the cap is open. What Pete said

3) do you guys use any rubber protectant/sealant spray for the CARC/swimgarm rubber boots to help from UV/Moisture? Or should regular wipes/cleaning be ok?
I use Armor All like Pete said. Additionally I put it on the swing arm and up front on the alternator belt cover and plastic up there but clean everything first.

4) seems that having a rear hugger is quite mandatory if you want to keep the shocks/mount joints etc clean/rust-free in the long run?
I have one of those carbon fiber huggers from AF1 Racing that cost something like $230. Helps out. Mostly for looks..... I just about never ride in the rain. Just a weekend rider. I do have 24,000 miles and the bike looks like new.

Here are the cleaning products I use: Blue Magic and 0000 steel wool to keep the pipes clean. Meguiars on the painted areas. If you use it enough, it will turn your matt paint into a much glossier finish. And the Armor All..............

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1) I don't know, my GRiSO seems to run just fine on regular gas. And I've never had any tank bubbling or swelling issues with Ethanol blends here in Washington state. YMMV I guess.

2) I have not had any of this gas cap issues either.

3) I don't do anything other than soap, water rinse, and dry with a microfiber towel. Bikes have always been stored indoors.

4) I don't know about mandatory, but I've always liked both the looks and functionality. You could use a shock sock as an alternative.

5) I've got no answer to your battery question. I've always gone with the recommended YUASA AGM or a clone.

littlebuddha wrote:

Hi all, I am super happy to be a GRiSO owner after all these years! I first saw the GRiSO on a trip to NYC many years ago - parked on the street it was captivating - I immediately took some pictures. Fast forward 7 busy years later after having a lovely son and moving out of the city, I realized that since the GRiSO had been discontinued for a while (and it doesn't look like MG will be updating it soon) - and the used prices had actually gone up! since I last checked - so I finally took the plunge! And I have to tell you the few rides I have had so far I'm loving it. This is my dream bike after all so I don't plan on getting any other bike anytime soon - except maybe a vitpilen 701

I bought a used one (2013 1200 SE with 4.3k miles with a few extra upgrades - no leaks/obvious issues so far). I am taking it to the local mechanic to get an oil change and fresh tires and a general tune up. But there are some quirks/questions that I was not able to find in the multiple forums/fb groups so so I would just make a questions log without clunking up the forums with multiple posts - fyi I am in the US. So here goes:

1) I have a local gas station that sells ethanol-free gas but it is only 89 octane. Otherwise, I have the usual shell/mobile/bp, etc but the max premium is 93 octane (w/ethanol). What is the guidance as I read that better to have higher octane than lower for the motor? but I'm also wary of the tank bubbling issues with the ethanol gas...

2) the gas cap is comparatively loose/wiggly to other bikes that I have owned, where you have to put some pressure to open/close. Seems there is a rubber plug that I found some water around the seams when the cap is open.

3) do you guys use any rubber protectant/sealant spray for the CARC/swimgarm rubber boots to help from UV/Moisture? Or should regular wipes/cleaning be ok?

4) seems that having a rear hugger is quite mandatory if you want to keep the shocks/mount joints etc clean/rust-free in the long run?

5) I really want to get a lipo battery at some point and was looking at NOCO  NPL20 - which is an 18.9amp equivalent and has a built-in BMS. Have you guys had good experiences with Lipos? hopefully, it should be a direct fit without stressing the fuse etc.
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That's it for now (I'm sure I'll have more)! Bonus photo of my son on the bike - he loves it that it's Italian - he's a big fan of Italian supercars of course. Thanks in advance.

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Welcome to the real world. The GRiSO was my first entrance into Guzzi world, and now I have 5......... BUT..... The GRiSO is my still favorite.

My .02 on your questions.

1. It is Fuel injected dont worry about ethanol free, just add some seafoam or lucas to the tank once in a while.
2. Can't comment, but my cap requires some downward pressure as I turn the key. I'd cover your bike if stored outside
3. I spray all my rubber bits with silicone or Baristol once a year.
4. No hugger (looks dumb IMO) and no sock, but I don't ride in the mud, so I don't worry about it. You do what makes you happy
5. I am a BIG believer in standard batteries........ Just run what it was designed for.

Take time to set the suspension up for YOU, it will transform the bike. Plenty of threads on this. Also look into a Beetlemap, get Guzzi Diag, change your clutch and brake fluids (especially clutch), do a valve adjust, and RIDE! The GRiSO is special, make it yours and enjoy.

Thank you gents for the awesome guidance! I am overwhelmed with the amazingly responsive community here From what I can gather it seems my next steps are to:

1) Use 89 octane ethanol free gas - but using normal ethanol gas here and there should be ok. Add seafoam maybe once a year.

2) the lid/cap on the hinge is whats feels a little loose, even with it closed/locked - I took a picture below - is anything missing?

3) will clean and use a rubber protectant spray - thank you johna for sharing the pictures of the products. Will nufinish polish work for the tank/painted bits?

4) will stay away from huggers - the shock sock seems to be a good idea as well as the custom flap. The previous owner upgraded to matris rear shocks so want to keep it nice

5) will stay with the standard battery for now but will keep an eye out for lipos once it dies.

Bulldog9 thanks for the advice. Yes! next step for me is the beetlemap I have the cable for the previous owner - he never got around to it. The bike already has upgraded rear matris shocks and had been adjusted to my weight (same as the previous owner) so it feels good for now - I don't push the bike too hard anyways. Will be doing a full fluid change at a local bike shop so cant wait to see how much better the bike will feel.


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WRT #2 you can't see the gasket just by opening the filler. You need to remove the filler, (The four screws beneath it, don't drop 'em in the tank.) and then have a squizz. It may stick to the bottom of the filler mount but usually it's stuck to the tank.

PS. You may have to remove the surround ring as well to get the filler out? Can't remember.

Pete Roper wrote:

WRT #2 you can't see the gasket just by opening the filler. You need to remove the filler, (The four screws beneath it, don't drop 'em in the tank.) and then have a squizz. It may stick to the bottom of the filler mount but usually it's stuck to the tank.

PS. You may have to remove the surround ring as well to get the filler out? Can't remember.

Gotcha - will take a closer look. Btw, this woudn't be the part needed by any chance would it?

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Zounds! I'd never thought of looking for it as an AP part! Excellent work. Yup. That's exactly what is needed if it's missing!

Welcome!
My bike came with a carbon hugger, works just fine, would say it keeps the majority of the shit off the shock and front of shaft arm in a filthy torrential downpour.
I prefer huggers especially carbon ones as look far better than grannys filthy old sock on my shock
You can't trust these old codgers they grease each others butt plugs.
As for the suspension pivot block mine is semi deflect protected by the Stucci Belly pan.

Stucci does a tasty carbon hugger clamps to the reaction/shaft torque arm.
"You pays yer money you takes yer chances"

Here's mine doing some deflecting be absolutely filthy without, easier to clean than a neoprene sock.
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Pete Roper wrote:

Zounds! I'd never thought of looking for it as an AP part! Excellent work. Yup. That's exactly what is needed if it's missing!

Cool, trying to order some parts from AF1 and mgcycle. For my oil/fluids change, I'm getting this kit from MGcycle - the oil filter/washers/orings are much more cheaper than buying individually from AF1!

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I found the hiflo air filter on mgcycle - is this comparable to the OEM aprillia one? I am staying away from K&N air filters as per the forum guidance!

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Another great site I found is cadre cycle - they seem to sell servicing kits - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] - but its difficult to use the search function on the site but I'll bookmark for the future.

Now gotta source the oil and transmission and carc!

I’m surprised nobody has told you emphatically NOT to use a high flow ‘rock strainer’ air filter.
There’s some strongly opinionated folk here, mostly for very good reason.
Search is your friend, both in product and supplier.
That boy’s going to have girls all over him…
Good luck on all the above!!!

Cadre=good. That's my local dealer. Great folks.

BetaSteve wrote:

I’m surprised nobody has told you emphatically NOT to use a high flow ‘rock strainer’ air filter.
There’s some strongly opinionated folk here, mostly for very good reason.
Search is your friend, both in product and supplier.
That boy’s going to have girls all over him…
Good luck on all the above!!!

Thank you - yes hope the GRiSO is still around when he's ready to give rides
I read bad things about the K&N filters - I thought hiflo was just the brand name but will stick with the stock just to be safe!
Haha lots of forum posts to catch up on for me! Spending tonight trying to research transmission and carc oils - fun fun fun!

The Hi-Flo is a paper filter and will be just fine. It's the K&N/BMC type, (There are other brands but their names elude me at the moment.) which are a type of gauze within a cage design called a 'Labyrinth' filter that should be avoided.

The theory with Labyrinth filters is that the incoming air has to zig-zag through the filtering medium which has a light coating of oil. As it is doing it's zigging and zagging any particles in it, being denser than the air and having more mass and therefore inertia aren't supposed to zig or zag so quickly so they hit the filtering medium and stick to the oily surface leaving only 'Cleansed' air to get to the induction area.

While great in theory, in practice it is considerably less efficient and an awful lot of shite gets through them and while engine damage is a concern on Guzzis especially it seems to be the throttle bodies that are most prone to accelerated damage and wear.

The suggestion that they will somehow flow enough extra air to allow more fuel to be used to produce more heat and therefore more power/torque is patent bollocks. The stock filter is more than capable of flowing all the air the engine needs. Good grief. If a V4 Tuono can produce 120 RWHP straight out of the box with a paper air filter only about 2/3rds the size of the filter used by Guzzi for GRiSO/Stelvio then a slow revving wheezer like our 8V's is really not going to be strangled by its paper filter that will perform much better filtering down to much smaller particle sizes.

The 'Reuseable' theory is also absurd. They do deteriorate over time when cleaned and on a cost benefit scale don't really make much sense. You can buy six or seven stock or aftermarket paper filters for the cost of a K&N! Say you change them every 20,000km. That means you'll actually have to do 120-140,000 km before you reach break even cost wise!

Hateful things!

I've got a Pyramid hugger. Works great.

Alright - finally researched through various forums in regards to transmission and gearbox oils. The key messages I got were that it is not picky with oils + avoid molybdenum (motul gearbox oil) and note GL4/GL5. I see a lot of people (including Pete) use the same oil for tranny/carc but I'd like to stick with/close to factory-recommended oils for at least this first change. I already have the motul synthetic 10w60 for the engine.

So in summary I need 85w90 GL5 for tranny (500ml) and 80w90 GL4 (380ml) for carc.
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I'm having a difficult time trying to source both from the same manufacturer/shipper in the US, since we don't get AGIP. I managed to find liqui moly 85w90 GL5 hypoid gear oil (for tranny) and 85w90 GL4 gear oil for carc.

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both are mineral... I don't think it will be an issue to use 85w90 for carc? otherwise, I can pick up 80w90 Valvoline or Pennzoil locally it seems as well.

But I really wanted to confirm about this "hypoid gear" by liqui moly - seems like just a marketing name but anyone else used this? should be fine for the tranny I'm hoping. Seems to be excellent stuff from what I'm reading.

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Also can't seem to find this information but will 250mm size be enough for a full brake fluid replace? Will be getting DOT 5.1 as specified in the manual.

And adding a disclaimer - this will be the last oil related question from me! Thanks in advance.