Battery Woes

Hello Community,
I am back with a little headache.
Last Fall, I replaced the battery on my 1100 '06 GRiSO. I went with a Chrome Battery, having had good experiences with them in the past.
The battery I got seemed to drop its voltage while the bike was parked, and wouldn't even start the bike after 1 day of sitting.
I thought it may be defective, so Chrome sent me a replacement.
The same thing happens with the new battery.
Part of me is hoping it's a bad Chrome batch. I took the new battery off the bike, put it on the trickle charger, then tested it when it was done. It read 13.2.
The next day, battery still sitting on the counter reads 12.9.
However, I also measured the amps between the negative terminal and the negative cable when it was on the bike and turned off. It reads 1.6 amps, which leads me to the dreaded phantom leak....
I took things apart (partially) to see if I can see any loose connections or shorts, everything looks fine. Except! Those 3 plugs in photo 1. I don't see a place they go to. Any ideas what they are and if they should go somewhere? The black one has a cap, the two white ones just sit there.

So if it's not the plugs, and not my battery, any clues as to how to identify the leak?

Additionally, what is that black switch looking thing in picture 2?

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Thank you!!

Regarding the three plugs in pic 1. The capped one is the diagnostic port for the ECU. The white one is the diagnostic port for the dash. The other is likely the old "capacitor presetting" connector. No longer used, it's a holdover from the V11 models.


I can't quite make out what that is in pic 2.

Thank you!.
So that rules them out as my problem.
The second picture is the left side of the bike, on pic1's right side, you can see a grey cable coming up and ending in a metal sleeve that terminates in this black looking switch that is held in place on a U shaped metal bracket.

The only standard thing in the location is the clutch slave bleeder. Any electrical device is not stock.

ahh yes. Upon googling for images of that, it is indeed what it is. Looks like a switch, but it's indeed the bleeder tip. Thanks!

So my suspicions have proven to be NOT the issue with my battery leak. Any ideas of what could be causing it?

The dash “anti-theft” circuit draws a few milliamps (the flashing red triangle) while key is off. Others have reported it’s the dash checking the indicators have got an open circuit. In that case, they either have a touch of the willies, or their dash is malfunctioning. Mine doesn’t do it.

The only way to know is by process of elimination. Disconnect the dash with your meter installed, or maybe the rear indicators (they’re easier to get at). Pull a relay or two. See what stops the draw, then report back.

Beetle's advice is sound. I'll also suggest, since it's so easy, pulling the fuses, one at a time, to see if the draw disappears.

Update:
My multimeter leads disintegrated slowly and finally fell apart while I was working on this.
So in the meantime, I took the battery off again and put it on the trickle charger. Once it was fully charged, I disconnected the charger and left it alone.
Immediately after coming off the charger, the new multimeter was reading 13.57V. About 24 hours later, it's down to 13.15V. Is that normal? Could that be the issue and I'm just going on a wild goose chase?

Perfectly normal. They're just regular sealed lead acid batteries, right?

If it keeps going down quickly, however....might be time to spend more than $50 on a battery...

I tried a Shorai Lithium battery and their charger for my 07 1100 last year. Unless it sits constantly on the charger and stays warm, it won't crank the GRiSO. I had to pull the seat and leave a light on it for warmth if I want to start the bike in temps below 50f. Went back to a Lead Acid sealed battery. Problem fixed.

Known issue, after power restore, immobilizer system may "stuck" at permanent "on" state, drawing power by its antena.

Completely random, may happen or not happen, at any bike on any time.

Solution:
After power restore, battery or main fuse reconnected, 1st thing to do is turn the key to "on" for about a minute - do NOT start the bike - and then turn off and remove the key for about a minute. Ready.

If that works I'll be impressed!

Hi; Your problem may be the alternator. After a period of time the diodes that prevent the battery discharging through the alternator when the bike is not in use degrade. It is a straightforward procedure to check out if this is the case with a multimeter - just go online to see the full procedure demonstrated. It doesn’t take long to do and will eliminate this potential source of the problem.