First self made service on my GRiSO

Hello.

I recently bought a GRiSO ( )and since this is my first motorbike that I plan to service myself, I started looking into the consumables needed for (at least part of) the 40K service. Before I pull the trigger on these, and since I'm new to all this, I would like a confirmation that I'm not buying inadequate parts.

1. What brake pads parts numbers (front and rear) to use on a GRiSO 1100? I'm a bit lost with parts number. I've seen HH from brembo recommended but not HH from ebc because it eats the disks. Is that true? I found 07BB04SD but I'm unable to find 07BB04HH anywhere.
   
2. Brake lines are supposed to be compatible with DOT5 but clutch only takes 5.1?
   
3. Semi synthetic 10w60 for motor? I found SHELL Helix, Ultra Racing Motoröl  10W-60, 4l, Synthetik which is pretty cheap in 5L canister?
   
4. 75w90 for gearbox/CARC? I found Motul motylgear 75w90 semi synthetic. Is it ok? What volume do I need for both gearbox and carc?
   
5. Can I mix oils? I don't know exactly what oil is in the motor but I would need to top it off. Since the color is still good, I don't want to flush it yet if I can avoid. Can I just add some 10w60 oil or since I don't know what type of oil I have in there now it's better not to mix and change the oil completely? Same question for gearbox oil?
   
6. Do I need to change the oil filter if I change oil type?
   
7. I found HFA6101 as air filter and HF551 for the oil. Are these ok?
   

Apart from that, I have read through the valve clearance tutorials and plan to do that during the coming week. Once it's done I'm gonns oder a map from beetle and upload it. I've hear so many good things about them.

Thanks a lot for your help.

HF551 is the correct oil filter.
Don't mix oils. Drain and replace - only top up if you know what's in there already.
DOT 5/5.1? I though our beasts required DOT4! DOT 5 and 5.1 are different animals altogether, I think.
The Shell Helix should work, I have used it in the past. Now use a locally manufactured oil - Penrite.
The others I cannot comment on.

Good on you for doing your own servicing, it's not hard, and is very rewarding especially knowing it's done and done right!

HFA6101 from Hiflo is the right air-filter.

You can mix Dot4 and Dot5.1 - Dot5.1 is just better quality. Dot4 is all you need.

Gearbox: ca. 500 ml, Cardan: ca. 315 ml.

Nice bike.

Markus

Just to clarify on the brake fluid. Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 are compatable because they are natural. Dot 5 can only be used with itself and can NOT mix with any other brake fluid as it is synthetic.  You brake components MUST be rated for Dot 5 as it is corrosive to Dot 3,4,and 5.1 systems.  The folks who named the Dot 5.1 natural fluid rating should be made to stand in the corner for a day because they really started a confusing rating. They should have called the next gen 4.1 or 4.something to keep it in the same category.

Bill Dee wrote:

Just to clarify on the brake fluid. Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 are compatable because they are natural. Dot 5 can only be used with itself and can NOT mix with any other brake fluid as it is synthetic.  You brake components MUST be rated for Dot 5 as it is corrosive to Dot 3,4,and 5.1 systems.  The folks who named the Dot 5.1 natural fluid rating should be made to stand in the corner for a day because they really started a confusing rating. They should have called the next gen 4.1 or 4.something to keep it in the same category.

Thanks for the explanation. I did not know they had to make it compatible but it makes sense. 
This is the part that confused me. 
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Anyone knows Moto-Master RoadPro Sintered pads? Any good?

DOT 5 is silicone based, it doesn’t mix well with traditional brake fluids.
If you go down the DOT 5 road, the system must be fully purged to remove the old DOT 4/5.1. Reservoirs and plumbing should be relabelled with DOT 5 warning stickers to prevent accidental mixing of fluids.

However, in most parts of Europe, DOT 4 is not readily available. Should something happen and you need to top up a brake or clutch reservoir mid journey, most petrol stations, garages or a fellow petrolhead will have DOT 4.

DOT 3 (possibly showing my age here), 4 & 5.1 are all compatible but mixing will reduce the performance to the lower grade.

DOT 5.1 isn’t necessarily a higher performance fluid. Many racing fluids Castrol SRF etc are DOT 4.
My recommendation would be a good quality branded DOT 4, only buy what you can use during the service. Always open a fresh bottle and change the fluid frequently- max 24 months or 6000 miles.
Others may have alternative views.

Yes I understand. Only reason I asked is that I have quite a lot of dot 5 from my MTB breaks and since it's not hygroscopic, I was thinking that I would be able to use it. That's not a good idea now that you explained it to me more in detail.

Now for the brake pads:
The serial number on my rear pad is TT 2710 HH. I can't find these anymore in the brembo lineup. It's very likely that this is still the original brake pad.
What brembo pad should I replace it with? Would the 07BB04.SP be ok? I've heard about the HH pads. Is that only EBC pads or is there a Brembo equivalent?

Try the EBC 181's, they're a great pad.

Pete Roper wrote:

Try the EBC 181's, they're a great pad.

Thanks for the tip. They are just hard to find in Switzerland without paying big shipping/border fees.

That would be FA181HH for the rear and FA244HH for the front?

Well bugger off over the border and buy them in the EU and smuggle them back in! Be a scofflaw!

Sorry chaps, my comments from 5 posts back should read that DOT 5 is not readily available.

Very well, I found the brake pads, the oils and my feeler gauges are ready.
I guess it's a good idea to have replacement cover gaskets for when I do the valve clearance or should I be able to reuse the old ones?
And for the crush washers of the oil boxes, can I use a generic washers or do I need the original part?

A full set of genuine sealing washers is around £15 (UK) more than the oil filter. I only get these because it’s easy to order them online when working away from home.
My preference is for aluminium sealing washers. Generic good quality items will work fine but you need to get inner and outer diameters correct especially for the carc washers.
On the 1100 you have replaceable gaskets on the valve covers.

eeyore wrote:

My preference is for aluminium sealing washers. Generic good quality items will work fine but you need to get inner and outer diameters correct especially for the carc washers.

Are you saying that generic washers like this one should work? No need to have a two components washer like the original part?

I don’t think I started getting the two component washers when I ordered them from AF1 Racing until the last 3-4 years. Before that, just the aluminum crush washers. I’m using an aluminum one I had around on my oil drain now. Never had a drip with either type. They charge about 3.50 usd for a two component washer here in the us.

Guys, it's a seal.

Dowty washers, (The ones with a rubber bit in the middle.) are readily available at any hydraulic shop, ask for 3/8 th if you can't find metric.

Really though any sealing washer will do. Aluminium, copper, a Dowty seal. It doesn't matter. Just don't over torque it and make sure the mating surface is clean and unblemished.

OK ok. Just asking
And what about the cylinder cover gaskets? I guess that if I do the valves on my 1100 and don't have replacement gaskets, Murphy will slap me in the face and I'll tear one

I believe all of them are a very RE-usable neoprene (help Pete).
I’ve had mine off every year for 7 years now and not had to replace them. I replaced the seals around the 8 bolts that hold the valve covers on but just as a precaution this year.

Yes this is exactly the one I'm talking about ( link ). I had a bike with cover gasket made out of rubber with several lips and it was pretty sturdy so we could reuse it no problem. This one from the images looks a bit thinner and maybe more fragile.

Someone with an 1100 will have to comment. From the price alone I’m sure it’s not one of the thick rubber ones like on my 2014-1200

Yes it's a non-rubber seal (see below picture).....same material type on V50 & V65 where I never change it when I do the valves (unless it gets broken), and it's never leaked

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Ok then I'm gonna try. Worse case I have to wait a few days without riding until a new seal arrives.
I'm gonna plan the valves before a bad weather window so if it goes wrong I don't loose sunny days waiting for parts

I wanted to do the valves before the mapping to have everything in order but I guess that would not change much if I do it in reverse order

True, but whatever order you do all the 'static' stuff.....at the end you'll need to reset TPS cos you've changed the map, then balance/synchronise the cylinders (without touching sacred screw) & reset TPS again.....

paulbrice wrote:

True, but whatever order you do all the 'static' stuff.....at the end you'll need to reset TPS cos you've changed the map, then balance/synchronise the cylinders (without touching sacred screw) & reset TPS again.....

Yes I read the guide by Beetle. Don't worry I have a dab of glue in addition of the yellow paint on the sacred screws. 

So if I do the map first then the TPS reset had to happen again after the valves?
it would then be: save old map -> load new one -> reset TPS -> reset autolearning Parana -> set CO trim -> ride for a while -> check valves when bad weather -> reset TPS and autolearning -> set CO



Do I have it right?