Electrical gremlin to chase.

5 days ago I was caught in a downpour and made it almost home without issue. I stopped to get some Petro and it all begins after starting the bike after refill. Service with triangle locked onto screen and bike was cutting in and out for about an hour. I waited an hour and pooched it home via sidewalks severely cutting in and out the whole way. (Must say she has never left me stranded). Disconnected battery when home for the night and ran fans heavy to hopefully remedy. Showed ECU error 54 so ordered new rpm sensor. Connected new sensor after shimming for clearances and still Serv+ triangle at start. Difference now is they both disappear after starting. But after hour or so of normal riding they come back on. Also, something different today verses yesterday very intermittent cutting out and surging only at 2900 to 3100 rpm 1st and second gear. Very unsafe I must add....I noticed after getting home today after short ride that one of the relays are clicking on right side during pump prime after turning on ignition multiple times.
I'm trying to avoid going into ECU because I know it is sealed up big-time with new gaskets upon install of 2nd ECU. I replaced original a few years ago after corrosion issue inside of unit....

Any ideas with info I've given this far?

Oh also the headlight was going apeshit during the original day of problems after refueling. Highbeam, on off violently, ect. Additionally, no fuses have blown throughout this progression.

@Gootzibird Have you tried re-booting the dash?
Basically disconnect the battery or remove the 30a fuses for a few minutes then reconnect and turn it on.
Relax while the dash does its "reboot thing"

It worked after my ecu began to fail in Spain

I have done the disconnect for reboot, and also tried the connecting the leads together over night remedy to no avail. It's been difficult to get motivated due to the heat indexes here in so Florida. Not just to work on bike but even to ride it with this God awful heat during late summer. I yet have to check the starter ground and then relays before diving into ECU. It currently still runs with same ECU service code showing an open circuit on the new rpm sensor. Should I at least disconnect the battery until able to work on it?

Also to be noted: sometimes when riding, the triangle and service alert on dash goes away directly after firing.... sometimes it idles sporadically at first but once I throttle it out it smooths up. Mind you I have just been running it a few miles at a time to avoid stranding me or damaging engine ect. Earlier on it stayed clear as far as dash alerts but now it's coming back up sooner than later. It's been almost a month so all of the water in system is gone. My trailer where I keep it gets to 120 degrees according to dash temp gage.

Gootzibird - right at the end of my ECU-wisdom sorry.
Have to wait for a knowledgeable one

No worries. I thank you for all and any input good sir. But as you know, it sure makes sleeping easier not having a sick bike...

I recently purchased a relay tester and have to get at continued troubleshoot to resolve.

I had a VERY similar issue with my GRiSO 1100

How many shims are you using on the sensor?
I removed my sensor to fix an oil leak.
Reinstalled same sensor with shims it was originally installed with.
I checked everything trying ro fix the issue... removed the thinnest shim and it ran perfect.
Why? Only gues is that the sensor is incredibly sensitive to the gap setting and I would set it on the lowest gap possible.

orngm2 wrote:

I had a VERY similar issue with my GRiSO 1100

How many shims are you using on the sensor?
I removed my sensor to fix an oil leak.
Reinstalled same sensor with shims it was originally installed with.
I checked everything trying ro fix the issue... removed the thinnest shim and it ran perfect.
Why? Only gues is that the sensor is incredibly sensitive to the gap setting and I would set it on the lowest gap possible.

I will give it a shot. The factory sensor came with 2 shims a skinny and a larger one. After measuring length of the insert as identicle.  I just re assembled new sensor with both shims. I will try without the skinny shim and see if that helps....It kinda makes sense as a possibility.

You try it yet?

That did it. Thank you sir.

Awesome!!!

Just giving an update to above. I now believe my ECU has had water intrusion and possibly corrosion occured. Last time code 62 came up that's what caused it. By God I will get this bike running again is my goal. I just happen to have another ECU on hand off a Bellagio. It's an oppertune time to change the belt while I'm in the area.

I'm not sure when I will get to it but I will post my results. I'll say it again this motorcycle does NOT like the rain.

Well, somebody called ECU way back when I started chasing Gremlin.......damn the luck I say but to locate is remedy and enough reason to start drinking early today.[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

That's not looking so good.

It's hard to tell if it's just dirty or dirty with burnt/damaged pins.

You might try cleaning it with a soft brush and some alcohol, Technical Grade 99%.
Not electrical contact cleaner, that would be hard on the rubber seals.

I had a similar experience while troubleshooting an intermittent fuel pressure problem on a GE CF34.
Pulled the cannon plug to find a bee, could have been a wasp, crushed in there.
Not sure how the little dude made it there to begin with or why it took so long to start causing a fault.
I wish I'd saved the pictures!

Please keep us advised on your progress.

Missing pins 19 and 10. I was able to retract both of them from harness connector.

DAMMIT!
what are your thoughts on preventative measures to keep this from happening?

DeOxit works. It is one of the plugs that riders often don't want to get to. Not to bad on the G but the other CARC's is a pain. Just glad I never bought one, I do get to ride what I work on, that's enough.

You know Chris, this is a great topic. Maybe there is someone that has a pelican type case that worked. Something because for me this is my 3rd ECU and all three had water intrusion. On same side of unit effecting almost the same pins. All of the gaskets have been new but to no avail....Is heat an issue for unit?

The water just apparently chases down the wires past the micro connectors and sits in the corner to rot...

ok - so I've never had reason to get to my ECU so I am speculating here
what if you did the following:
de-ox the pins and connectors
reassemble harness to ECU
wrap the unit with self fusing electrical tape - paying close attention to all joints and potential intrusion points

cost effective and should be water tight if done correctly

That would be ideal but again I assume that the 5AW does need to disapate heat. If anyone knows if it can be wrapped up and insulated without overheat issues? That would definitely be a go for me. Won't be long and the 5AW ECU will be at 500 US for a used one. If you can find one.

Remind me whether the connector sockets point upwards or downwards.

Upwards and away from each other